Replies

1. 
   Dam_inspector | Jun 18, 2009 05:48am | #1

   I've seen kits to do just that, Endura framesaver end kit might still be available.

1. 
   Saint | Jun 18, 2009 07:05am | #3

   Thanks - I'll look into it. I just noticed the problem this evening. I'll poke around some more tomorrow to see the extent of the damage.

   Saint 

2. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Jun 18, 2009 06:04am | #2

   My opinion, FWIW, would be 'no' because you are mating materials with very different rates of expansion and contraction.   Either use a rot resistant wood dutchman or architectural epoxy.

   I did a very large rot repair on an exterior wood door (went all the way through) with this: 

   View Image and it works just fine - takes paint well too.

   http://advancedrepair.com/architectural_epoxy/architectural_epoxy.htm

   Flex-Tec HV is a two component epoxy-based repair material designed specifically for the repair of damaged wood. Engineered to move with the natural expansion and contraction of soft and hard wood species, Flex-Tec HV offers outstanding long-term performance. It requires no additives or fillers. Excellent modeling and tooling properties make Flex-Tec HV the ideal choice for the professional user. Flex-Tec HV can be used on both vertical and horizontal wood surfaces.

   Jeff

   
   

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   Edited 6/17/2009 11:22 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke

1. 
   Saint | Jun 18, 2009 07:25am | #4

   I just checked out their video on the website. Looks like the perfect solution.

    

   Thanks,

   Saint

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Jun 18, 2009 02:00pm | #5

   It's expensive for the intial setup (around $150) but so long as you aren't trying to build back complete rectangular sections of wood (where a dutchman would make more sense) it works great for rotted wood, and leaves a substrate that cannot rot.

   Jeff

3. 
   fingers | Jun 18, 2009 02:28pm | #6

   I did just that with Azek about a year ago. It looks good but not invisible where the two different materials meet. I'll bet that if I tried it again I could get a better result because now I've got a multimaster.

   Oh, I also put a storm door on which should help protect the jambs in the future.

1. 
   Saint | Jun 19, 2009 11:07pm | #10

   Storm door is definitely the way to go. Two of three doors with rotten jambs - no storm doors on two them.... care to guess which ones? 

4. 
   barmil | Jun 19, 2009 04:22am | #7

   Replaced mine this week (same problem) with pre-cut PVC. Had unsuccessfully tried before to fill the rotted areas. About $49 at the big box for the three pieces and about $24 for the brick mold. Chiseling the hinge mortises was a bit of a problem, as the PVC will compress instead of cutting if the chisel isn't really sharp. I didn't feel like using a router, as the plastic will also melt and stick to the blade. Turned out okay, and it'll look like wood when painted, only will last much longer.

1. 
   brownbagg | Jun 19, 2009 04:43am | #8

   I,m doing it right now with pvc abut it not cheap so I can only buy one piece each payday

1. 
   Dam_inspector | Jun 19, 2009 06:54am | #9

   Been there...

5. 
   BoJangles | Jun 20, 2009 12:37am | #11

   I have done this many times.  I use Trex.  It's available in the right thickness and it's cheap to do with scraps left over from other jobs.  It's almost impossible to see the joint.

   Be generous with the PL Premium and foam.  Shave off with a sharp chisel and sand lightly.  Prime and paint.  Replace brick mould with Azek.

   It looks like the commercially available jambs use Trex for the bottom 12".

1. 
   Saint | Jun 21, 2009 12:59am | #12

   I jsut received some epoxy but not enough to fix both door jamb, 4 jambs total. When I run out of epoxy I will try replacing the remaining sections  with Azec or similar.

    

   Thanks,

   Saint