I need to replace some rotted sill plate on my 1950’s single story home. There is a piece about 8′ long that is underneath a rim joist that runs parallel to the floor joists, so I am not sure how to jack it up. I have replaced a shorter piece where the floor joists ran perpendicular so it was fairly easy to lift. The exterior is brick so I can’t get to it from the outside, only through the crawlspace.
Should I try and jack the subfloor (1×6 planks)? This seems like it might work but makes me uncomfortable.
Another option I am considering is removing the soffit/porch ceiling on the outside of this wall which would expose the top 10 in. or so. Then I could attach a 2×6 across the studs and jack from the outside (not sure how I’d safely use the bottle jacks I have at an angle though)
I’m also afraid that at some point I’ll find some rim joist that needs to be replaced as well, which seems like it would be even harder to replace…
Thanks.
Replies
This plate does not carry as much load as the ones that the joists rest on. You might consider leaving it alone. The rim joist might carry the load alone or you might double up the rim joist just over the rotted span.
But why is the rot there? If you got the moisture problem solved, and the rot is not extensive, consider drilling out the damaged sections and filling with wood epoxy. FHB has advertizements for load carrying epoxy. Hope this helps.
I realize now that I may have left an important piece of information out: the 8' sill plate I am referring to comprises an entire wall. I have attached a sketch. The red is the wall in question... highlighted in pink are other sills that need to be replaced.This sill plate is in better shape than the others highlighted, but the back edge (this is 2x4 sill) where the rim joist rests has compressed quite a bit, tilting it upwards.
May be better yet can you get a twelve or ten footer in there sistered to the existing rim then on the end where it is overhanging into the basement put a jack on that end, Or if your rim is 2x10 get a 4x8 rest one end on the foundation wall with blocking tight under it, Place a jack under the end that over hangs. On end that is resting on the foundation wall you could place a jack under the joist closest to it. If you use a hydraulic jack place a solid support under in case the jack fails.Wallyo
Edited 2/6/2009 7:00 pm by wallyo
I like this idea, although I am not sure how I would jack up the end that is not overhanging (this end is at the corner). I have considered trying to attach a block to the rim joist and jack it up at an angle (like I would do if I did it outside near the top plate), but it seems like this would end up pushing it outward just as much as it does up.
I had things kind of out of order. For the end in the corner I thought go to the next parallel joist over, jack that up a bit then wedge the beam in there nice and tight. set the jack on the other end and jack that up. As said you are not trying to lift the house just taking the pressure off enough to get what is bad out and slide a new piece in. Hopefully the old piece may be a bit larger then the new. If using pressure treated you may want to get a dry one or let a wet one dry out a bit so it is not swollen and goes in easy.You could probably go for a 4x6 move it out a bit more and use two or three jacks. I am thinking just one story involved?
Wallyo
Edited 2/6/2009 11:27 pm by wallyo
Just as a follow up...I lagged a 3 ft piece of 2x4 to the rim joist near the corner, and then cut a notch in the doubled 2x4s that I was jacking. This sat right up against the subfloor. While this did not work as well as I thought it would when I first decided to do it, it did lift just enough to where I could hammer in the new sill plate without damaging it or the rim joist. The other end was very easy to lift up. I do plan on doubling the rim joist in this area.Any suggestions on how to fasten the sill plate in this situation would be appreciated (or can I skip it?). There is very little clearance, and I am very wary of doing anything to the concrete foundation wall.. it doesn't seem to take much to get pieces of it to crack off, especially around the old (and now rusted) anchor bolts.
Right angle drill with tapcons. You wont have the hammerdrill option, so start with a smaller concrete bit and work your way up. Tapcons are pretty low on the list of best sill attachment, but I think that they are better than nothing.
I think I could get the holes drilled ok, but I have a feeling when I went drive the tapcon that it would split a chunk of concrete off. I am not sure how to describe it... you could smack the edge of the wall with your hand and probably knock a chunk off. I am not sure if this indicates the quality of the concrete or if this is the result of water? I assume it is possible that as the anchor bolts rusted, water would sink into the concrete around it and then maybe freeze?
Sorry not to get back sooner but as said I would not worry about it too much. Was going to suggest the tap-cons as pointed out and an angle drill. You could also run a bead of polyurethane construction adhesive at the right angles where the sill plate and the foundation meet as well as the sill and rim joist. It will also help to block cold air from coming in. Next time you may want to try placing construction adhesive on the foundation wall before sliding it in, then you don't have to worry about getting it all over everything. But if you needed to back it out, new piece not fitting, you still have a mess to deal with. If the concrete is in poor shape you may want to avoid a mechanical fastener.
But if you feel you need one what is upstairs can you pull carpeting back, drill 2 or 3 holes say 1.5" diameter close to the wall through the sub floor, big enough to get the muzzle of a power actuated gun down there and fire a three inch fastener in? then plug the hole roll the carpet back? Just a thoughtWallyo
Edited 2/11/2009 12:22 pm by wallyo
As far as fastening the sill plate, I wouldnt worry about it too much because it is such a short wall (the walls perpendicular to it should help hold it in place), but one way to do it is butter it up with construction adhesive before you slide it in, this also can make it easier to get in, but can get really messy though
First I would be wary of trying to lift the wall to correct any sagging. I don't think the brick wall would survive it intact. At least the ties could become loose.
Without the correction, you could drill or chisel out (air chisel?) 4 or 5 inch sections and replace with good wood or expanding concrete? You could replace little pieces 16" apart, not the whole plate.
If correction is possible, I saw pneumatic jacks that looked like alligator clips. These were made for tight spaces, but I don't know if these are made for heavy work such as your project. I may be confusing the names but they may be called scissor jacks.
Another thing is you should check how the water is draining on that wall, if brick has weep holes that became plugged, if patio or ground under the patio is draining towards the wall. I would get rid of that planter, anyway. Hope this helps.
Is the rim sagging at all? Eight feet is not that much to replace. Depending on what is in the way you might what to break it up into smaller sections chisel out about 32 inches worth and a couple of friends with pry bars on each side of the chiseled out piece slide the new piece in as they pry up on the rim.
You may want to try jacking up the joist next to it, with two or three jacks under the joist. then remove and replace the 8' section. Maybe double up that joist by temporry screwing a ten footer or so to it. unless there is a real sag in the area you don't need to jack up a lot just a bit to take the pressure off the sill. I have replaces some with out even needing to jack anything.
Depending on how the brick is tied in you don't want to jack a whole lot.
Wallyo
chisel out 2 51/2" sections of it equal distances from either side and place two 2x6 on the flat under the rim and next joist over. Jack just enough to relieve pressure on the plate, but no more. Take out the rotted sections and peice in the rest with pressure treated 2x4. You might have to get a little creative to fasten it. There shouldn't be a lot of weight on that particular wall section. Be smart about it, and be safe!
Replace it in sections. Jam a wedge between the plate and the rim. Cut out 4'? section then repeat on the other side.
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