I need to replace the soffit (plywood) and eaves along the back of my house. The house is 50 years old, and paint is peeling and several runs of plywood are chewed up from utility hooks/penetrations/etc. In addition the fascia waves a good bit along the run (the roof seems to as well, settled rafters?), and a couple lookouts have apparently become detached making the plywood come down below the bottom of the fascia.
Because everything is so uneven, I’m not sure how I can replace it and make things even and look good. The side of the house I’m doing is a pretty long straight run, 60 feet I’d guess. How can I align everything? Run a string from end to end and try to measure up from it?
Also, I’d planned to try and reuse much of the plywood, just turn it over. Wouldn’t need to backprime it because of how much paint is already on it. Bad idea?
Thanks!
Replies
I'm not sure how I can replace it and make things even and look good
Probably your best bet is to rip down all alnog that side, and then put back new in small steps. Why rip it all out? Well, to get it level means having to be able to run string lines or other benchmarks the whole way. You will probably have to sister or furr out the supporting structure for the soffit & fascia. To do that means being able to measure to some artificially created, repeatable, benchmark.
Once you know what even is, you can then start putting it back right. Now "riight" may also mean compromising, too. So, maybe you start with the most visible "bit" and work from there. It's a real good idea to measure out from that first starting point, too. Being 3/4" off when you get to the corners will not help you any at all (unless you get carried away and redo the entire soffit & fascia--which can happen, project creep is an ever-present danger).
Personally, I would not reuse the existing soffit plywood. Why? Because while it's "pretty good" right now, that's "pretty good" in your visbily "wavy" soffit & fascia. You start putting new material in, and the old will (might) look a bit less "pretty good." Also, that "pretty good" material, if it's 90% or so good, means that it's 10% or so "bad." Ripping water damaged edges off, or other dimensional changes to make an "ok" peice "good" takes far more time and effort than just doing it right in the first place.
You can save the good material, you might be cobbling together a shed or need some scrap for a garage project--that's a fine use for the good removed material.
Related: What would be a good soffit material, assuming you don't want aluminum/plastic and aren't looking for the "look" or expense of something like beadboard? Is plain exterior plywood the best choice?
What would be a good soffit material
There's a can of worms to open <g>.
If you are browsing about, you could check out Azek, if you are looking for alternatives. There're many choices; regional conditions will make a difference, too. The existing work makes a difference--the choices with continuous soffit vents are much fewer than without.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I just redid all my soffits and facia two summers ago. Ripped down the alum siding that was on there and put up 1x6 rough sawn cedar fascia and textured ext 3/8 preprimed plywood. Looked just like the cedar but it was SYP.
Had kind of the same situation as the original poster. The house did not have sub fascias originally. Added them and redid the lookouts or whatever they are called.
I started at the corners. Measured off the brick to establish the right distance from the house. Notched both corner rafters for a 2x4 sub fascia. Pulled a string tight. Strings will be your friend here. This will establish the elevation also. Now notch the rest of the rafters. Install your sub fascia. Shim or notch deeper if needed to get this part really, really straight in both directions.
I nailed another 2x4 on the wall framing, above the brick, level with the sub fascia. Now infill with your 2x4 lookouts. I measured each one because the wall wasn't dead flat.
Next was the soffits. Ripped the plywood to width. Installed so it was proud of the sub fascia by about 1/4. Trim was going against the house so it was not critical.
Grooved the fascia with a router 3/8 deep one inch from the edge. Primed all sides. Slipped this groove over the soffit and nailed to subfascia. Nailed crown to the wall side into the 2x on the wall.
Hope this makes sense. Not all that hard. Strings are your friend.
Your method makes perfect sense. Hopefully I can actually accomplish this. I've just got a few questions, and please pardon my ignorance, I'm a programmer after all!1. After notching the corner rafters, how/where exactly did you run your string?2. Stupid question, did you notch for the 2x4 to run flat or vertical?3. Did you do any sort of venting? Mine currently has none, but I've got a ridge vent and three large, triangular gable end vents. My guess is there isn't much circulation around the eave area and this could possibly explain why some of the paint is peeling. Or it could be a bad paint job, or lack of backpriming. Thanks!
If I remember correctly, I used temporary blocks to come down farther than the final soffit elevation and used a level to mark a plumb line up onto side of the rafter. Then measure up for the top horizontal cut. You can overcut this one a little, just not the vertical.
I'll try to attach a sketch.
The 2x4 sub fascia is vertical. I used a 2x4 so I didn't go all the way to the top of the rafter. Which is a 2x6 in my case.
I cut rectangular vents at the end of the job. This was by far the hardest part. If you can do the layout on the soffit before you install it, it'll be much easier. I was being a wus, didn't trust myself. Sorry Blue.
I appreciate the help! I know I'll have to fight the temptation to redo the whole house. Will it be ok to run a string that length sag-wise? Obviously it would need to be very small string. Should I establish the benchmark by trying to meet up with the two ends of the run? Would there be anything more appropriate/easier than using a string line?You bring up very good points on reusing the wood. Maybe I can use it for more decking in my attic, which I could always use. Thanks again!
Iwanttofix, if you insist on using your string, you might try using some dental floss. It is light and strong and wont sag.
I'd do it by eye. If you can see that it's crooked now, you'll know when it's straight.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
iwant...
we use Alcoa Pro-bead soffit almost exlusively.. they make both vented and non-vented..
if we have to use plywood, we use AC.. probably 1/4..
we prime the sheets front and back before we rip them.. then we prime all edges.. and we finish paint before we install , so all we have to do is touch-up..
but i really like the Pro-bead best
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