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I am a do-it-yourself homeowner, would like to reroof my home, and have several questions for some of you “Roofing Pros.” The existing roof is one layer, 4 x12 pitch, three tab composition shingle. The old shingles are cracking and breaking at the 3/8 inch eave overhang, and I plan on cutting all them back flush with the fascia board. The old roof does not have a metal drip edge and I would like to add a new drip edge before installing new roofing. My question is should the new drip edge be installed under or over the old shingles before applying the new reroof starter course?
Question (2) My old shingles are English sizes (12×36) and the only new shingles available at Home Depot, and others suppliers, are Metric in size (13×39). How does one use the nesting method of applying new shingles when the exposures are different (5″ vs 5 3/8″)?
You cannot believe how many books and brochures I have gone through trying to get answers. And people I have asked these questions with no satisfactory answer.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Joe Love
Replies
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joe... if you're going to do an overlay.. you're on the right track with the "nesting" ..
find a different supplier... go to a roofing supplly house.. they'll have the standard 12x36...
...i like drip edge up the rakes AND along the eaves
if your old shingles are only sticking out 3/8, you should be able to put the dripedge right over the bottom course (using an "F" profile)....
you may have to break back at the rakes, apply your dripedge, run a soldier right up the rakes, to give a neat edge and also to shim back to the surface of the existing layer and then shingle over that...
if you can't get the 12x36, go right over the top... forget about the nesting... but i'd make the effort to get the 12x36.. you have to go to a 1 3/4 nail for the overlay...
b but hey, whadda i no ?
*He Mike: Thanks a million for your information. I'll try and find the 12x36 shingles. I was told by the roofing folks at Home Depot and Home Base that the manuf. do not make the 12x36 shingles any more. However, I got a packet of brochures from GA which shows both sizes being manufactured, English and Metric sizes. Anyhow, thanks again.Joe L.
*Definitely stay out of Home Depot. Go to a real supplier; get rooftop delivery and pay the extra .10 per bundle. Get shingles from the same lot (that is, they should all come off the same pallet). There are some discrepancies in manufacturing; and the only really hosed lot-sizing I've ever seen came from Home Depot, where they bundle all that crap together. Some shingles of same type, color, code etc. that were from vastly different manufacturing dates (several months difference), we're off by 1/2" on both height and width. And everyone still makes standard 12x36's.
*Hey Joe L.Just curious what area you live in (state, providence, etc.)? I'm interested in this metric shingle thing.
*Hey Jason,Thanks for the tips on buying from Home Depot. This metric shingle vs English shingle thing is really strange. I was over at the largest roofing supply house about 4 years ago and at that time they told me none of the manufacturers were making the English size (12x36)??It may be my location. I live in Southern Calif. in the high desert, about 1 and 1/2 hour drive from Los Angles. Anway, thanks for your info Jason.Joe Love
*Hey Matt G.I live in Southern California, in the high desert about 1 1/2 hours driving time and Northeast of Los Angeles. Have lots of wind, winter gets down to low 30, with hot and dry summers. I've looked at shingles from Home Depot, HomeBase, and our new Lowe's home centers and the only shingles they have are metric size (13x39). No english size (12x36) which is what I now have on my roof. I ordered and received a bunch of shingle information from the manufacturer GAF and according to them, they still show English and Metric shingles being manufactured and sold. I don't know what is going on with this size thing?Take care and thanksJoe Love
*Hey Jason,Thanks for the tips on buying from Home Depot. This metric shingle vs English shingle thing is really strange. I was over at the largest roofing supply house about 4 years ago and at that time they told me none of the manufacturers were making the English size (12x36)??It may be my location. I live in Southern Calif. in the high desert, about 1 and 1/2 hour drive from Los Angles. Anway, thanks for your info Jason.Joe Love
*Joe:Regarding the 5/8-inch difference between standard and metric shingles, I wouldn't let that affect your nesting-method plans. According to an author whose article on layovers will come out in the next issue, the only effect is that the head lap, the amount that the shingles overlap, is increased by that 5/8ths. Going over the old standard shingles, you get 5/8-inch less exposure. No problem.He does say that dimensional or laminated shingles are a good choice for these layovers, because their raised texture can mask any unevenness in the original layer that wants to telegraph through. If they are about 13-inches tall instead of the standard 12, you just cut an extra inch off down at the bottom as you start: That is, a 5-inch starter strip, a 10-inch first course (cutting off 3 instead of 2 inches), and then 13-inch courses the rest of the way.
*Hi David Thanks for the exposure information. I just recived my March issue of FHB and I didn't see anything on roofing. I guess the article will be in the May issue? Anyway, thanks a lot.Regards,Joe Love
*Hi Joe Love, (great name!) I don't like to roof over existing shingles. I'll always recomend a tear off. But I do "give 'em what they want" ...and if its a roof over, so be it. Some call this job a butt 'n run because you butt the top of the new shingle to the bottom of the existing one. Always nail a little higher so as not to exaggerate the dimple or even break through your new shingle. Its softer than goin' just on the roof deck. I have to apply ice and water membrane. Its a must nowadays. But before that stuff came along I would tear off the first (3) courses. It makes for a better all around job. Good luck, work safe, have fun.. Dan-O
*Hey Dan-OThanks for the response. I'll probably wait for a month or two before starting my reroof. Let the weather warm up. Just wanted to get all my ducks in a row before doing job. What is your opinion on the new drip edge I talked about installing?Several "old pros" have suggested installing my new drip edge under the old shingles before doing the new layover. I have been confused whether it goes under or over the old shingles at the eaves before laying down new shingles. Would appreciate your input.In the meantime, I'll try and not fall off the roof.Best regards,Joe Love
*I will never understand a roof-over. Do it right, or not at all. A full tear off lets ya get all the little details right so the roof will last for years. A roof-over leads to questions about where to place the drip edge....and what to do about the membrane....but you already know that! Get a dumpster or line up a clean up/haul away guy. Just say no....to doing half a job. Jeff
*Hey Jeff,I live in Southern California and have not seen a professional roofer do a tear off in more than 20 years. The only tear off I have ever seen are the old dry wood shingles which have been banned because of fire hazards. We get no snow build-ups at the eaves so the builders do not use the membrane at the eaves, rakes, valleys, etc. It's just a waste of money. My house, and all the others, in the neighborhood don't even have drip edges. So you see Jeff, I am in a whole different world. Just about all of the new construction here is tile roofs. So they will never have to worry about "tear off" or "don't tear off."I'm just going to plow ahead with a new drip edge and a new roof-over.Thanks for input.Joe Love
*Joe, I drip edge the whole roof. You can go right over the existing shingles with your new drip edge.I've ripped off many that are done this way. There's a couple o' types but Mike's suggestion for using an"F" profile is the ticket. Runnin' the rakes his way would be good for you too. Remember, ya hafta think like a drop of water..Dan-O
*Dan-OI understand. I only have about 12 feet of rake edges and all the rest of the roof is eaves. It is my understanding that the "F" style drip edge is the style you would use with rain gutters.OK Dan, I'm thinking like a drop of water. Thanks for your help.Joe Love
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I am a do-it-yourself homeowner, would like to reroof my home, and have several questions for some of you "Roofing Pros." The existing roof is one layer, 4 x12 pitch, three tab composition shingle. The old shingles are cracking and breaking at the 3/8 inch eave overhang, and I plan on cutting all them back flush with the fascia board. The old roof does not have a metal drip edge and I would like to add a new drip edge before installing new roofing. My question is should the new drip edge be installed under or over the old shingles before applying the new reroof starter course?
Question (2) My old shingles are English sizes (12x36) and the only new shingles available at Home Depot, and others suppliers, are Metric in size (13x39). How does one use the nesting method of applying new shingles when the exposures are different (5" vs 5 3/8")?
You cannot believe how many books and brochures I have gone through trying to get answers. And people I have asked these questions with no satisfactory answer.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Joe Love