The roof is 8/12 and 5.5/12 basically T shapped gable, except one leg is shed roof.
First this is the Kansas City area and maybe we get enough snow and conditions that maybe get ice on the roof one year out of 5 and that only last for a couple of days.
Although the existing 30 YO shingles are in very, very bad shape on the side that had hail damage there have been no leaks except at the skylights which are going to be removed.
I am planning on using 30 year laminate shingles. Might go higher depending the price.
Little of the roof is seen so that I don’t see the need to spec any kind of style or high end unless the life/cost makes it worth it.
So this is what I want to ask for. All new metal drip edges and valleys. New vent boots. Ice and water for the valleys. But I don’t see any need for the I&W at the edges in my area. But if the roofer offers it as a their standard I will give them some bonus points.
New step flashing at chimney and possibly new counter flashing.
Remove and sheath over skylights.
Install terminals for tubular skylights and bathroom vents.
I don’t see any need to ask for a specific underlayment. Use whatever the roofer commonly uses.
Shingles installed per manufactures instructions.
Am I missing anything here?
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid – Shoe
Replies
I like 30# felt for my own safety on an 8/12. Vent boots should be lead, no plastic, the plastic gone in 5 years or less.
I am planning on using 30 year laminate shingles. Might go higher depending the price.
Check on whether heavier shingles are special order or not in your area. In mine they are - In Hazletts they're not. I charge considerably more for over 30's since I have to hit my quantities perfectly. Overages can't be returned and underages mean delays in finishing.
New vent boots.
Spec lead. Replacing neoprene gasketed vent flashings less than 10 years old is my #1 service call.
But I don't see any need for the I&W at the edges in my area.
Me neither.
possibly new counter flashing.
Get new counter flashing - #2 leak repair.
I don't see any need to ask for a specific underlayment.
Agreed. Whatever the roofer's comfortable with.
Am I missing anything here?
Venting? Rotten wood replacement?
http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
haven't seen a lead vent boot in 50 years... all we have here are neoprene/aluminum or neoprene/copper
only failures i've seen are if they dimple the neoprene... other than that.... the 25 year old ones we see on roofs are still serviceable... but i'd replace them with new anywaysMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Must be the salt air. They don't last around here.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
only failures i've seen are if they dimple the neoprene...
Got any pictures........
Sorry, I can't help my self sometimes.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Don't expect any rotten wood, but you never know.And I an going to post a separate question about venting..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
bill..... you don't come right out and say it... but i'm guessing this is a "strip & reroof"....right ?
when you say "laminate"
is that the same as an "architectural" ?
our standard shingle right now is a certainteed Landmark woodscape.... a 30 year shingle...
it is surprising how little it costs to upgrade to a 50 year... or even a "Lifetime" shingle... most of the money is in the labor
I love my light tube. It is on the north side of the house in a stair well. Nice light and no hassles with skylights.
I want to add one in the for the stairwell.The existing ones is in the bathroom and a closet area and will be replaced with tubular. Beside getting rid of the leaks they can there are a couple of other advantages to replacing them with tubular.What brand is yours?.
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Edited 6/6/2009 7:27 pm by BillHartmann
my favorite tubular is Velux....i like the 21" flextube... amazing amount of lightMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
"my favorite tubular is Velux....i like the 21" flextube... amazing amount of light"You mentioned that before.But I have 16" framing and don't want to have to header it off for such a small change.The place that I want to replace the two existing ones are both very small spaces 5x6 and about 5x7.So I might get by with the 10", although with the inlets on the north side I might want the 14". But both of those have existing openings for skylights to the 21" would fit there.However, the larger area that I want to put in a new one (stairwell and hallway) I could not fit the 21" without reframing.And I was disappointed in the amount of info that Velux has on their website.For example no clue at all on how much loss their is with the flex versions vs the rigid. And no information installing the light kit. But for the last location the interior outlet is just on the north side of the roof peak. But I could use the flat version that follow the roof plane and put it on the South side and use the flex to get it over to the outlet. That should give a great amount of light. And will be more aligned with the lower winter sun.But looking at their install instructions I can see how the flex is much easier to install.But also looking at the install I think that while, I could get by with what I want to do I am going to change my mind and not install the terminals now.But wait and do the whole thing when I am ready.In my case I will have a 6-12 month old roof so they are will still be flexible. Single Layer. Easily walkable pitch for ME. And spare shingles. And easy attic access to check for any leaks.My aversion to roof penetrations are based two earlier jobs. They had NONE of those conditions, except the last one was walkable, but it was too layers and old so I did not want to. That one was just replacing a vent boot and I was able to reach it from the roof edge.But both made me nervous for future leaks. But so far so good.I looked at Sola Tube and was more impressed with there system. But the amount of details and their options. But now I will have more time to pick out and order what I want..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
i've installed about 4 of the competing tubular skylights... i still likt the flex tube Velux best ... even against SolaTUBE
my opinion is..... the bigger the aperture, the more light... against any claims to the contraryMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
As I said I can see where the flex tube would be much easier to install. Really makes it too independent operations. and just snake the tube between them.No exactly meausrements and trying to adjust elbows and lengths.Just which they had some more specs on the amount of light..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
IIRC Sola Light it's been a few years.
In our last house the skylights would condense and drip GRRR finally sealed everything and put a sheet of acrylic at the ceiling level. that stopped it but what a PITA in the meantime.
I wonder if it was Solatube?The closes I could find to a Sola Light was Sola SkyLights which is a UK distributor for Sun Tunnel (Velux)..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
"Is that the same as an "architectural" ?Yes."our standard shingle right now is a certainteed Landmark woodscape.... a 30 year shingle...
it is surprising how little it costs to upgrade to a 50 year... or even a "Lifetime" shingle... most of the money is in the labor."And I check with the insurance co and their is not discount for anykind of composition shingle.It is interesting the difference between what CU sees and what Steven.So rather than rather then try to pick out a brand and series I am going to ask for 30yr as a base and see what they offer in upgrades."haven't seen a lead vent boot in 50 years... all we have here are neoprene/aluminum or neoprene/copperonly failures i've seen are if they dimple the neoprene... other than that.... the 25 year old ones we see on roofs are still serviceable."I will have to probe then and see how live the neoprene is on my old ones. But I think that they are still good. But even if they are still "good" by the time that you mess with then redoing the roof it is not worth trying to salvage the few bucks and then have them torn.PS - yes this is the orginal roof and it is a single layer strip and replace..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
i like w valley, but if you want to see me blow my cork,let them install a plain galv on a nice weather wood color shingle.my own house is that way and i'm still upset 6 years later.
for my money i would make sure the contract reads "colored valley and roof edge" cost maybe 20.00 more for the job.
you might ask what the sq ft charge is for replacing deck. i had one done here a while back and they nailed me at 8.00 a ft. [250.00 plus for a 4x8 ply]YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'TMOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THEDUCT TAPE.
"you might ask what the sq ft charge is for replacing deck. i had one done here a while back and they nailed me at 8.00 a ft. [250.00 plus for a 4x8 ply]"No! I will require that. While in remodeling it is not that uncommon to have hidden defects and they type and repair can't be quoted upfront. Although they could give an hourly rate or similar.But for reroofing I figure that bad spots in the sheathing is a common known problem and the bid should have a quote on that, either based on a sq ft or I believe that some do it based on per 1/2 sheet."for my money i would make sure the contract reads "colored valley and roof edge" cost maybe 20.00 more for the job."I probably will..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
for reroofing I figure that bad spots in the sheathing is a common known problem and the bid should have a quote on that,
You are right to some degree, in that it is rare to do a re-roof without finding some rot. However, I cannot estimate what I can't see, and I can't see it until I strip the shingles. So I don't bid hidden rot specifically.
What I do do, OTOH, is state very very clearly that such things can happen, and that the estimate total does not include them. I also specify the hourly rate for dealing with sheathing/framing rot (it's the same as the rate for doing the roofing); materials are cost +.
You may be dealing with a roofer quoting per square; I work strictly T&M so it's less complicated: just more hours and more materials at the same rates as the basic job.
make sure the contract reads "colored valley and roof edge" cost maybe 20.00 more for the job."
I have my drip edges custom bent from 6" 30ga alu; they have a 3½" apron and are twice as thick as the cheap stuff but they also cost me $1.42 a linear foot. Coloured stock on that would be the same price as white.
That's not so for the valleys. A plain, 24" galvanised W flashing costs me just under $4 per foot; coloured galvy costs 1.5 times what plain does.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
That is what I meant was a RATE for sheathing repairs. Not the total amount.And yes, there are tons of roofing companies here vs general practitioners.So I do expect a quote for replacing a roof.And more like a per unit price for sheathing repairs, but I would accept and T&M rates for that portion also..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
If you haven't a LOT of valley and Dripedge, go with copper. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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If you can find an honest guy to give you a T&M price, you'll probably do better on the bottom line and will almost certainly get a better quality job. You know how this works: if a guy is working on a flat rate, he's working against the clock and he won't slow down for anything that won't be seen when the shingles are on. And he's for sure gonna figure in a fat factor to that flat-rate or per-square price.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
Be sure to spec valley metal other than the "Handy Coil" Alum. junk. I just removed a bunch from a job, and had forgotten how thin it is. It's probably ok for wrapping fish, but has no place on a roof.
Coil stock, Galv, or copper is what ya want.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"
Jed Clampitt
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He's probably having "california", "cut", "closed" valleys done. No need for metal if they use I&WS.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
or a "stilletto" valleyMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
After seeing Alverson's, I was just being over cautious.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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I was planning on open valley with W galvy valley metal. That is what is their now.I figured the I&W was just good insurance. If they get a nail within the wet area or extra water that floods the valley.Maybe it is waste of money.I though that open was standard. But I just went to look at 10 close by houses that I could tell what kind they where. Of those 5 had open valleys with w-metal. But except for mine they where all painted and hard to see. One of mine can be seen from the road, but it is at an angle that you would not see unless you where specifically checking the roof. With the painted ones they where really hard to see even where they are close to the road and in clear sight.About 1/2 of the "closed" ones looked cut. The other 1/2 had continous shingles that where "bent". They did not all look that nice.BTW, at the one valley the slope changes. Don't know, but I think that makes a closed valley hard to do RIGHT.Is there any inherit reason to select one or the other type of valley.As stated by goal is to get best value for the money and not that concerned about looks..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Is there any inherit reason to select one or the other type of valley.
Done correctly, it just comes down to cosmetics, IMHO.
Done incorrectly, they all can be trouble. I'd do what the roofer is most comfortable with. The pitch change complicates the "W" valley as you noted. http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image