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Restoring a Copper Roof

| Posted in General Discussion on April 14, 2002 03:57am

I have a copper roof over my bay windows that have turned brown over the years.

I would like to retore them to the basic copper color and then apply a finish to keep them looking new. I have tried the Vinegar and salt metod along with Brasso, Tarnish removers , etc. and None does an adequate job of removing the tarnish.

Vinegar and salt seemed to start to get the finish back but it is a long sloooww process. Home Depot offered little to no help. The local roofers that install copper roofs also were no help.  

 I am looking for a commercial cleaner or advice to clean this properly. And also the proper method or product to keep them looking new.

Thank You all for any and all help .

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  1. MarkH128 | Apr 14, 2002 04:49am | #1

    I have never tried any such thing as this. But, I think you need to use a buffer with polishing or rubbibg compound, according to the depth of corrosion. You could try a buff in a drill or flex shaft instead of a polisher. However, I would rather have the brown and verdigras myself.  If you do buff it up shiny you will have to use a strong solvent to remove all the film from the compound before top coating. The coating will eventually fail in a most unattractive way and will need to be stripped off.

  2. TerrySmiley | Apr 14, 2002 05:09am | #2

    Pete

    You are trying to remove years of patina.  Even though it's only brown it is thick this is why it's so hard to remove.  The patina is what makes copper last so long it protects the metal under it from air and corrosion.  The good news is I have done what you're trying to do many times.  I've had to clean old copper to attach new downs and other soldered additions.  Here's where you say you've got to be kidding!!  Get some Muriatic acid, start with small quantities diluted and tested for strength on small spots until you find the strength you need.  It won't hurt the copper unless you leave it on to long or use it way to strong.  To stop it's chemical reaction simply flush with lots of clean water and baking soda to neutralize the acid.  Trust me on this it will work and do a great job.  When you're finished the best thing I can recommend is a paste wax to keep the new look.  It will probably need to be applied several times a year depending on climate but It's easier than a lacquer finish to strip and reapply.  You can go the lacguer route but get ready to strip it every few years.  They make lacquers for copper if you look at a good paint store.

    Do not try to remove this patina mechanically ie: buffing or sanding.  You'll remove way to much good copper and never get the edges and corners clean.

    Just so you'll know I know what I'm talking about here's some of my work:

    Tabula rase
    1. grantlogan | Apr 14, 2002 11:39am | #3

      What Terry said. I have used a brass wire wheel to remove paint, but that was a desparate measure and I don't recommend it.

      Terry,

      Did you form the radiused pieces yourself? I've fabricated cornice, custom gutter profiles, ridge roll, etc., but only in straight sections.

      Have you worked with lead much? I've been approached about fabricating a fountain liner out from lead.

      gl

      1. TerrySmiley | Apr 14, 2002 05:40pm | #4

        Yes Grant I built a maple form to match the profile of each molding.  I cut copper strips oversized, annealled them with a cutting torch and hammered them onto the form. It took me 6 weeks of hammering.

        As for lead, no I haven't work with it much.  I did build a copper fountain liner a few years ago.  It was 10' x 10' x 2' with radiused corners. I used 1/8 inch copper plate and welded it together using a TIG welder.  It has a bronze statue with a spray feature and today (3 years later) the liner is the same color as the statue. 

        Like I said my customers have some great Ideas

        TerryTabula rase

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