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If you plan to paint the repirs can be easy – simply rip tapered filler pieces, glue, screw, fill, sand, paint. I have hauled painted doors home to re-use, only to have them dipped (to strip the paint) and found them patched in all manner of ways. If they are only slightly tapered, cut the square and attach straight strips of wood.
If you plan to stain and finish – good luck. Many of our doors were slightly tapered, so I square cut them and simply made them shorter. Another trick I use (I make my own jambs and casing) is to “hide” the taper with a taller stop at the top jamb. Or with a goofy top jamb. The door looks fine closed, and open it is hardly noticable.
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If you plan to paint the repirs can be easy - simply rip tapered filler pieces, glue, screw, fill, sand, paint. I have hauled painted doors home to re-use, only to have them dipped (to strip the paint) and found them patched in all manner of ways. If they are only slightly tapered, cut the square and attach straight strips of wood.
If you plan to stain and finish - good luck. Many of our doors were slightly tapered, so I square cut them and simply made them shorter. Another trick I use (I make my own jambs and casing) is to "hide" the taper with a taller stop at the top jamb. Or with a goofy top jamb. The door looks fine closed, and open it is hardly noticable.
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If Mr.Susz suggestion doesn't work for you, those doors can be repaired by splicing on new pieces like he suggested, but then having the door thickness taken down enough to accomidate a reskining with the appropriate veneer. I specialize in veneer work and have done this many times with very good results. If your interested, contact me via Email. JOHN T.
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The doors in our 100yr+ house have been trimmed sometimes up to 3 inches on one side to match the sagging floor or at the top. To bring them back to normal appearance and height again now that the floors have been corrected would require replacing one or both stiles and one or both top and bottom rails. Any other aternatives?