I’ve spent 3 hrs reading old Mooney Wall Threads, but have not come across this question. Apologies if it’s already been covered and I didn’t see it….
I like the Mooney Wall concept, and I’m sold on cellulose. My question is, can the 2X2 furring be put on the outside of the studs instead of inside?
I have a 2X4 framed ranch in upstate NY with NO insulation. No plywood sheathing either, just 3/4″ homasote between siding and studs. 50 yo clapboard and brickmold is rotted in many places. I also need new windows. The upshot is I’m trying to put together a scope to hire someone to:
insulate, new siding (hardie), new windows.
I’m thinking 2X2, 1/2″ OSB sheathing, then blow cells through sheathing, then felt, then hardie.
Seems like a lot to “hang” on the outside of the studs, and not sure if you get the requisite shear strength.
I’m wondering if I’d be better off keeping the homasote, blowing cells through it and just adding a 1 or 1.5″ EPS, then felt/hardie? (Just no shear strength…but the house hasn’t had it for 50+ years anyway!)
Any thoughts appreciated…
Replies
stray... i assume you are talking about Hardie board... what ? 7 1/4 with 6" reveal ?
i would think you want a vertical stud as a nail base for the Hardie, but maybe not..
perhaps the 1/2" osb is sufficient
also the lack of shear strength is a concern, but if you block the edges, then you should get the same shear as a regular stud wall...
what kind of windows are you thinking about ?..
sounds like a new life for the old girl.... enjoy
Yes, Hardie Board. I'll call them to see whether osb, or maybe ply, is an acceptable nailing base.
I'll also ask them whether nailing through an inch or more of foam to the nailing base is OK. I want the siding tight.
When you say "block the edges", are you talking diagonal bracing between the studs?
Exact window isn't decided on. The siding replacement is driving the need to do the work. Once I get that scope nailed down and roughly estimated, I can pick the exact window based on what's left over in the home equity.
Yes, it will be nice to spruce the old girl up. It was tough "letting go" and deciding to hire this out, but I've got enough interior reno work left to go to keep me busy for years.
Thanks.
"blocking the edges"
minimum of 2x material all around the shear panel.. the combination of the frame, the plywood / osb, and the nail /glue (? ) schedule is what creates the shear panel
the plywood by itself doesn't because it can deform by bending
the frame doesn't , because it can collapse and fold
the two acting together by the nail schedule is what does the magicMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Same as Mike, I'd be concerned about nailing into OSB only.
It's been awhile since I've read a spec sheet but I know they want some long nails and kinda thinking they want them into something besides OSB.
Might work with some thicker siding material. 5/8 ply maybe and more nails per plank.
Ask Hardi.....maybe jameshardi.com?
Joe H
I am in no way an expert on this, but it sounds similar to this recent thread.
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=91828.1
Here's a thought from a position of ignorance - could you put up Hardie Panel and add strips of rot-proof trim to get a board-and-batten look? Then you just need to make your horizontal boards match the nailing schedule for the panel, then OSB, felt and furring.
Maybe you can shoot that down based on the appearance of the house or someone can opine based on experience, but I have had it in my head for a while as a better rain screen than most options.
Would it be a rain screen with horizontal strapping? The ones I have seen have vertical strapping so any water that gets behind the siding can flow out the bottom of the wall.
John
I like the panel idea in terms of less seams, etc... but it's really not the look I'm going for.
Thanks though.
Yes. I did just that with Hardi Panel and Miratek trim.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Captain America! I command you to... WANK!
Stray,
As Mike said, you could get the requisite shear out of the OSB or ply you'll be installing by blocking at the panel edges. If you're running the sheathing vertically, every third stud would get blocking along its length to bring it out to the same plane as your 2x2 strapping. If you choose to run the sheathing horizontally, instead, the vertical blocking could be on every sixth stud.
This still leaves the problem of actually attaching the siding, though. Hardie does say it's okay to nail only to the sheathing (it's a footnote in the instructions - http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/pdf/hardiplankinstall.pdf), but I wouldn't be too comfortable with it. It would take some good layout work and planning, but if you are planning on using a 6" reveal, you could place your horizontal strapping at 12" on center instead of 16". Every other course of siding would then be attached directly to the strapping.
Brian
Yeah, that would take some planning to line up the furring, but I guess you'd just have to do the story pole a bit earlier. It's really up to whomever I hire, but I'll want to have a good idea of how they're going to put it on before I give the go-ahead.
Thanks.