I need to construct a 25′ ridge beam. I don’t have luxury of waiting to have a engineeered beam ordered as I can’t find any local yards that can get me one without a wait. Plus money is kind of tight but would pay for it if I could get it in time.
Can someone enlighten me on a proper way of constructing a built up beam for this length. Framing is 2×8 rafters. Gable end that will tie into existing ridge.
Skim-coating with joint compound covers texture, renews old drywall and plaster, and leaves smooth surfaces ready to paint.
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Replies
What you need is an old fart with engineering skills -- someone who knew how to make do when you didn't have the luxury of engineered beams and the like. There may be one or two of those still around here.
You might move things along by stating what's the largest/longest stick of lumber generally available where you are.
LOL! I hear ya"
I'm not
LOL! I hear ya"
I'm not actually doing the framing myself (change in plans). I have a framer doing the work and I am supplying material.
He wanted a glulam, but needs to get started etc...etc...so "no glulam for Him!!!!!"
I am confident "he" knows how to take care of it, but I want to know from "my" standpoint so I understand what is acceptable and that it is properly built.
Is it just a matter of double 2x8s staggered and joined to necessary length? Doug Fur?
ridge beam construction
If you are doing conventional framing, a "built up" ridge beam is not necessary. A 1x10 no.2 or 3 grade sheeting board will do fine. The strength of the roof at the ridgeline is due to the rafters opposing the downward force against one another.
Just splice the boards with a scab of wood and mark your rafter layout on one side.
Kilgorefish - that "IF" looms so large it is worth repeating three times!
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ridge beam construction
If you are doing conventional framing, a "built up" ridge beam is not necessary. A 1x10 no.2 or 3 grade sheeting board will do fine. The strength of the roof at the ridgeline is due to the rafters opposing the downward force against one another.
Just splice the boards with a scab of wood and mark your rafter layout on one side.
ridge beam construction
If you are doing conventional framing, a "built up" ridge beam is not necessary. A 1x10 no.2 or 3 grade sheeting board will do fine. The strength of the roof at the ridgeline is due to the rafters opposing the downward force against one another.
Just splice the boards with a scab of wood and mark your rafter layout on one side.
doesn't need to be a single
doesn't need to be a single beam. You can bol together 2 or three LVLs from sizes they do have in stock. They can do the engineering on that for you.
And believe me, it is asier to lift three LVL pieces one at a time than a single glulam
Sandcastle - ridge BOARD can be a one by, but he wants a ridge BEAM. They are two different animals
Inexperienced farts are lost in space
If it doesn't come out of a ready-made table inexperienced farts do not seem to know what to do.
Everything in here is suggested under the assumprion that the roof is 10' wide on either side of the ridge.
One way to accomplish this is to build a ridge truss with flat chords. Such a truss should be about 3' deep, if you have the room, with horizontal top and bottom double chords. The double chord should not be nailed to each other but spaced enough to allow inserting 2x6 diagonals that run between top and bottom chords.
For the chords if your framer cannot find long enough lumber, then it can be butt spliced and light steel straps (Simpson?) fastened over the splice to cover it entirely on both side of lumber. Try to locate the splice as far away as possible from the center of truss.
Size of top and bottom chords should be determined according to wind and snow conditions in your area but be no less than double 2x8.
After rafters are connected to the top chord of truss diagonal braces from bottom chord to rafters should be installed every 4 to 5'.
A pair of minimum 16" LVL's can do the job and I am not sure that the truss will be cheaper to build.
On the other hand if this is an attic and the rafters go down to the walls where they meetthe ce the ceiling joist then you don't need a ridge beam, only a ridge board. Your framer has to make sure that the ceiling joists are continuous from exterior wall to exterior wall and above the wall the rafter and the ceiling jists are fastened to each othe properly, depending on the roof geometry. Also putting collar ties between rafters one third the way down from the ridge will achieve the same purpose.