What is the proper way to connect a ridge beam to a fireplace flue. Is pocketing the ridge beam an acceptable manner. I had been told that the flue needs to be free standing seperate from the rafter/framing. The ridge beam will be intersecting the middle of the flue. The flue is mason construction. At no time will the ridge beam be in close proximity of the fire chase(clay liner). The fireplace chimney/flue will be completely open on four sides.
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red
I think by your description-
No, the wood (if it is) ridge beam cannot come in contact and combustible framing must be 2" away from the chimney.
The flue is the channel within the chimney. You have clay flue liner.
By open all 4 sides do you mean there's no walls around and running into this chimney/fireplace.
Then of course, it must be determined if the masonry can even support the load of the ridge beam. (proper footing etc)
in the old days, probable could do it-even get darn close to the masonry with wall framing or beam. Wood lath routinely ran right up to and even possibly over the masonry chimney.
So there's the either / or, non- answer to your question.
Ridge beam to chimney
calvin wrote:
I think by your description-
No, the wood (if it is) ridge beam cannot come in contact and combustible framing must be 2" away from the chimney.
The flue is the channel within the chimney. You have clay flue liner.
By open all 4 sides do you mean there's no walls around and running into this chimney/fireplace.
Then of course, it must be determined if the masonry can even support the load of the ridge beam. (proper footing etc)
in the old days, probable could do it-even get darn close to the masonry with wall framing or beam. Wood lath routinely ran right up to and even possibly over the masonry chimney.
So there's the either / or, non- answer to your question.
Thanks for your reply Calvin. The ridge beam is wood.
The 2" clearence with the chimney with combustible is that by code that you are referring. The reason that I ask is that chimneys are built everyday and walls are attached especially on a gable end or sidewall and it would be extremely hard to finish a room and make it weather tight with that restriction. The flue(fire chase) I could understand but not the facade.
The chimney is approximately 3' thick X 6' wide. It actually has three liners incorporated into it ( fireplace, gas hot water heater and wood cookstove. The chimney construction is substantially built on a proper footing. The chimney is freestanding and open on all four sides with no wall framing with the exception of floor joist beam attached for a loft floor on 2 side at ceiling heigth on the ground floor..
Being a remodeler rather than a new construction builder I can not cite chapter and verse and would welcome any correction.
Here's a couple of references you should read through. Otherwise google whatever code your area is under and investigate. Please relate your findings.
http://www.rumford.com/code/clearances.html#issues
http://www.inspectionnews.net/home_inspection/fireplaces-chimneys-solid-fuel-burning-appliances-home-inspection-commercial-inspection/25771-old-chimney-new-clearance.html
Yes it will take some research but briefly scanning I did find this.
By 2000 (next year or shortly thereafter) the 50 states and all local city and county building authorities will adopt the new International Building Code (IBC) and its companion the International Residential Code (IRC). It's good news for masonry fireplaces and chimneys in several ways:
The clearance-to-combustibles issue has been resolved clearing up ambiguities and requiring safe clearances to combustible materials but with specific exceptions which allow for safe ways to close combustible walls around masonry fireplaces and to allow combustible material to be in contact with masonry chimneys which are part of masonry wall systems, provided the combustibles are not closer than 12" to any interior firebox or flue lining.
I presently do not have any code compliance but try to stay within them as much as possible. Again Thanks
this might help
http://www.rumford.com/code/IRC09.html
First up
This may be semantics, but the structutralmamber CANNOT connect with the flue.
It can connect with the total masonry chimeny IF separated from the flue by at least 12" of Masonry
BUT this is not ideal because the chimney will grow taller and shorter per temperature
Keep in mind that a wood member in contact with masonry will be subject to rot. At the very least you need to use a plate or membrane to hold the wood off the masonry. And you should allow adequate ventilation around the wood, vs tightly enclosing it with masonry.