Replies

1. 
   fingers | Jan 19, 2010 02:24pm | #1

   I'd go with a corded drill.
   I'd go with a corded drill. I've got a ten year old Hole Hawg but the Milwaukee drill you mentioned would be a good choice if it has the same quality as the older stuff.

2. 
   davidmeiland | Jan 19, 2010 03:09pm | #2

   I have a Milwaukee corded D-handle right-angle drill, probably the model # you mentioned but I can't recall. It's indispensable. Also have a Super Hawg, necessary for some larger holes. No cordless tool would do what these do, although I would like to have the Makita LXT cordless right angle for driving screws inside cabinets in awkward places...

1. 
   calvin | Jan 28, 2010 05:39pm | #9

   although I would like to have the Makita LXT cordless right angle for driving screws inside cabinets in awkward places...

   David,

   Having read about the work you do I suggest you check out the kit that Festool offers. I have one from '05 that I think they discontinued but more than likely redid. It has the 4 noses that mount to the drill body. A strait hex, straight hand tighten chuck, the right angle which can be adjusted 360 degrees on the body, and the creme-de-la-creme: an ofset head. You will be able to drill where you want w/o the chuck grinding into the cab. This end is a hex-good for bits and hex end drills. Of course they like you to use their proprietary bits etc, but I've worked around it with a drill kit from PC.

   I'm sure way expensive but I walked into this one at a fest. Can never thank the guys enough for Making me take it. At least take a look. It's saved my rear several times when nothing else would work.

3. 
   k1c | Jan 19, 2010 09:07pm | #3

   If you have been making do with the angle attachment only so far, may I guess that you are not a professional plumber or electrician? In this case, you don't have to buy expensive right angle drill.

   I renovated 2 houses with Milwaukee "close quarter" right angle 3/8" drill. I just checked Amazon to identify this drill, and it is just $40.

   If you really want the speed, then you should buy special bits as well, not just spade bit that I used, so the expense can really add up. Hope this helps.

1. 
   DanH | Jan 19, 2010 09:47pm | #4

   And keep in mind that right-angle drills are dangerous, and the more powerful they are, the more dangerous. This is one place where it may not be wise to get the most powerful unit you can afford.

4. 
   cap | Jan 20, 2010 12:41am | #5

   I'll second the thought that
   I'll second the thought that the DeWalt 18V RA is plenty good enough for a single remodel.

   I'm a pro, and use that tool for medium size remodels where I've only got several dozen holes to drill. For a whole house, or major remodel, I use a corded Mil. G-handle RA, and the cordless D-handle RA V28 drill.

   I use the Irwin "Speedbor MAX" auger bits (http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd160002), which have a 3/8" shank, so the drills chuck limit is not an issue. I use a 1/2" or 5/8" bit, and keep it sharp. The Irwin bit has a power drive (detent) 1/4" hex shank, so if I need a longer length, I use a beefy hex-shank extension (like Kleins). Works great.

   The Irwin bit is like an electricians bit, it has a cutting spur so it makes fairly clean holes. It's not a nail eater, if it hits a nail, it's toast. The Irwin bits cost about one-third of a Klein, Ideal, or other naileater auger. Basically, the Irwin auger bits are disposable items.

   The DeWalt 18V RA drill is easy to hang onto, and with the paddle switch design, tends to shut off it it jams, because it pulls out of your hand. If you're worried about reaction torque/kickback, use spade or paddle bits, which I've found to jam less than auger bits.

   Good luck.

   Cliff

5. 
   epsaklas | Jan 20, 2010 07:57am | #6

   I agree with CAP. I have the Dewalt 18v right angle drill and have used it in two major DIY projects. It has plenty of power and battery life. Definitely go with the auger bits. Irwins work fine, but, as CAP pointed out, if you hit a nail, you will need a new one. I had no problem drilling 5/8 inch holes through numerous 4 inch glulam beams with auger bits. Also, be sure to hold on tight, and take it easy. If the bit jams, the drill can wrench your arm off. Good luck.

6. 
   SMSUcigarguy | Jan 20, 2010 03:43pm | #7

   I ended up taking the DeWalt back. Apparently someone had purchased it previously, used it and then returned it. They resold it to me as a new item and I had no idea until the cashier opened it up and asked if I had used it. I told him I hadn't, but I don't think he believed me. I got a full refund though.

   I ended up deciding on the Milwaukee. I had the cashier open it up before I bought it (because of the experience with the DeWalt)and it had a few fingerprints and a little dirt on the plug. The cashier offered 15% off if I'd buy that one. My wife had a 10% off coupon that we used too. I ended up getting the Milwaukee for quite a bit less than the DeWalt.

   I stated previously that I was doing wiring and a bathroom remodel. I will be doing more work than just that, however. That's why I didn't feel too bad spending the money to get a decent tool. As a rule, I don't buy crappy tools because in the end they don't do what I need or they break prematurely.

   Anyhow, thanks to everyone for their advice. I'll try not to break anything.

7. 
   Amish Electrician | Jan 28, 2010 05:13pm | #8

   You've made a wrong turn
   You've made a wrong turn already. You don't want a drill of any kind.

   Instead, an impact driver with the Irwin Speed-bor Max bits will easily fit between 16OC studs. You will feel no tqist at your wrist. Making holes in wood has never been easier.

   For a single run of Romex, the 5/8" bit is fine. For two runs, or for MC cable, 3/4" is better. You don't want to make the holes any larger than you must.

1. 
   davidmeiland | Jan 28, 2010 08:45pm | #10

   I've heard that before... use
   I've heard that before... use an impact instead of a drill. Tried it once, for some reason it didn't feel as comfortable to me as using a right angle drill. Maybe I oughta try again. I guess I like the raw power of a low-RPM, high-torque operation.