Replies

1. 
   Clewless1 | Jun 15, 2010 08:41pm | #1

   Not sure ... but I'll bump this up and provide my lay comment. I'd think so ... attach some mortar lath (or other mortar base) through the insulation into the wall and then have at it, I'd think. Let's see what others say. Are you talking full brick or the thin brick veneer? Personally, I'd do the veneer to save the weight and expense.

1. 
   lochmanj | Jun 16, 2010 01:50pm | #2

   Thanks.  Using full brick with 2x6 framing.  I've seen diagrams of 1.5 inch rigid foam used on walls where siding is applied, but not brick or stone.  Any help would be great.

2. 
   CapnMac | Jun 21, 2010 03:43pm | #3

   Yes, emminently "do-able." 

   You need to securely attach the brick ties through the foam to the framing--so additional marking out for the masons is a very good idea.  You also want the foam sealed at bottom and top since you still want that airspace behind the veneer brick.

   I like to see peel-n-stick membrean flashing from foam to brickledge, especially if solid cotton wicking is ised in the first brick course.  Not a bad idea with open weeps, either.  Also keeps and 'slopped' mortar off the foam.

   Usually, the hardest part is the windows and doors, unless you lap the jambs/sills across the framing-foam-brick gap, you have to plan for how to flash and trim across the gap.

1. 
   cussnu2 | Jun 21, 2010 05:43pm | #4

   You are also going to have to have a super thick foundation....right?

3. 
   lochmanj | Jun 22, 2010 02:00pm | #5

   extra thick foundation..

   To compensate for the extra 1.5 inch foam?  Possibly?  Would it be possible to hold in the sill plate the 1.5 inches and run the foam down to the top of the foundation wall and still have enough for the brick ledge? 

1. 
   CapnMac | Jun 25, 2010 11:57pm | #6

   A brick is nominally 4"

   A brick is nominally 4" wide.  Here in slab-on-grade, in those few times a proper brickledge is added, it's a 2x6 flat.  This neatly renders a 5 1/2" x 1 1/2" ledge  for the brick.  That 5.5" allows for 4" of brick; a 1" airspace; and 1/2" of exteror sheathing.

   SO, yes, you could hold the framing back whatever (sheathing + foam) - 1/2" sorts out to be (presuming you goosed the foundation plan that amount as well).

   For those of you in basement-is-normal land, and the basement wall is poured, that will be a bit more complicated.  Now. I've seen angle iron bolted to the foundation wall for the brick ledge, but no one has ever explained how it did not rust away in ground contact.

   Some ICF have a scab-on brickledge course which can simplify things before construction.  Or, using a wider block, or corbelling wider block to make a ledge.

   Now, if this is all design-stage (please let it be so), it can be useful to run a ResCheck one the proposed structure both with and without the additional foam.  It may be that the area and orientation of the windows (which max about R6, with R4 much more common) obviate any gain from "super" insulating over the framing.  I tuened a project in that state down, as the client was never going to "get" that running the walls to R40 was going to double and triple the framing and fitting of the penetrations, and with an east and south wall near 70% punctured with doors and windows, the aggregate R value was going to hard to reach no matter what.