Replies

1. 
   LIVEONSAWDUST | Apr 09, 2009 05:24am | #1

   Well, if you think the horizontal joints should be taped, (I'm not saying they should or shouldn't be)...then tape the other joints too, because furring strips dont work well as sealing tape!

2. 
   DanH | Apr 09, 2009 06:10am | #2

   Might be simpler to bed the furring strips in some sort of caulk.

   The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
3. 
   Dreamcatcher | Apr 09, 2009 06:51am | #3

   I don't like tape on rigid, it seems like it always comes loose over time or just doesn't stick well in the first place. I like to glue all the edges together during installation.

   I figure, if I glue towards the back of the edge then water can't enter the board at all but if I taped the face then water could get at least that far---but that's just my own theory.

   If you are intent on using tape, why use Dupont Tyvek tape? If there ever were a warranty concern, Owens Corning would probably say you should have used their proprietary tape.

   DC

1. 
   FatRoman | Apr 09, 2009 02:27pm | #4

   I suppose I can see that the tape would lose it's bond over time. I'm not worried about any warranty claims. I'm doing this for me. Got the Tyvek tape because I had seen it mentioned either here or JLC. Wasn't aware that there would be other tape options.Like your idea of using the foam glue on the back edge. I'll give that a try and see how it turns out.'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb

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1. 
   EricPaulson | Apr 09, 2009 02:31pm | #5

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   To tpae or not to tape; that is the question!"When the spirits are low, when the day appears dark, when work becomes monotonous, when hope hardly seems worth having, just mount a bicycle and go out for a spin down the road, without thought on anything but the ride you are taking." — Sherlock Holmes, 1896

1. 
   FatRoman | Apr 09, 2009 02:35pm | #6

   Surely you've got an opinion on this, Mr. Hamlet?Whether tis nobler to suffer the slings and arrows of cold walls in winter, or tape up sheets against a sea of moisture and by opposing, end it?'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb

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2. 
   Dreamcatcher | Apr 09, 2009 02:45pm | #7

   Actually I just use construction adhesive rather than foam glue. You must read the label on the glue to ensure it is specifically approved for use with extruded polystyrene (EPS). IIRC, there is only one 20oz glue and a few 12oz glues at the HomeDepot that is approved, fortunately it is also the cheapest.The foam specific glue, sold only in 12oz size at the Depot, is comparatively expensive---like 2 or 3 times more. Maybe it's better, maybe it's the same stuff in a different tube.I meant to ask you about the installation method of the foam panels you are using. You are supposed to shoot a concrete nail through a 1x3 into concrete to hold the panels? Then do you add vertical 1x3's to attach drywall? I've put in a lot of EPS just not the firing-ready stuff; seems like a good idea.DC

1. 
   FatRoman | Apr 09, 2009 03:01pm | #8

   That's actually what I meant on the glue, too, the adhesive in the caulk gun tubes. I've been using the LocTite that's approved for XPS and HD isn't carrying that anymore. So I got a PL version for the next batch. Truthfully the walls are such that I'm not sure that the glue is doing much in my situation to adhere across the board. It's all going on 1930s era CMU. I'm just going to tapcon the furring strips (they sit in the recessed channel formed by two sheets coming together, so the foam and the furring wind up flush.) and they hold the XPS in place. I'd be afraid of making a hellacious mess if I used a firing gun. But maybe that's just me being cautious.'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb

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1. 
   calvin | Apr 09, 2009 03:18pm | #9

   I had missed this b/4.  Here's a recent application.

   We had a stair chase that was poured wall-garage on two sides.  Exterior on one end, last side mixed stud/block/brick etc that separated to basement. 

   I/we glued the sheets (spot plops).  Ran a bead down the mating edge/butt edge so next sealed glued and on we went.  I did blast away with my powder actuated tool.  Tapcons are too time consuming, but less violent.  The last time I did this I ripped furring from some salvaged ply-no splits on nailing.

   That damn foam isn't cheap.  The homowner picked up some OC-pink stuff.  He got a kick out of-and learned quickly on- keeping the writing the same direction.  Since he's taken ages on this self-done job of his he did agree that eventually-IT"LL GET COVERED UP.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

2. 
   FatRoman | Apr 09, 2009 03:26pm | #11

   Thanks. I'll skip the tape, stick with the glue down the mating edges routine and keep on trucking.Like that idea of ripping the furring out of ply, too. Some of that stuff is as wavy as the high seas.'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb

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3. 
   Dreamcatcher | Apr 09, 2009 03:21pm | #10

   You're probably right to be cautious and use the tapcons. Powder actuated nails often split firring into toothpicks. The whole system seems like a nice deal and I will certainly try it out the next time I do a basement or a crawl.Good luckDC

4. 
   FatRoman | Apr 09, 2009 03:27pm | #12

   I was thinking more that the powder actuated gun would make a mess out of the block. But the furring wouldn't hold up well, either, I'd imagine.Thanks for the info. Very helpful.'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb

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