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Rim Joist Attachment

USBrit | Posted in Construction Techniques on December 24, 2002 10:43am

I need to install a haydeck in a small barn and have decided to use doubled-up 2×12’s for the rim joists.

Each support upright has been made from 3 2×6’s and I am wondering what is the safest method of attaching the rim joist to the  facing 4.5″?

I have thought of lag bolts but even though I have 4.5″ to attach to, I am concerned at the holding power of bolts going into the three 1.5″ edges that present themselves.

Is it as simple as using more lag bolts of smaller diameter?

All suggestions gratefully received.

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  1. kennedy136 | Dec 25, 2002 12:46am | #1

    Scooter,

           Go to your local lumberyard and wander thru the section with "simpson products".  If you don't see anything that will work on the shelf, ask for a simpson catalog.  I know that they make several types of ties that will work and will allow you to nail or screw into side grain rather than the end grain of the 2 x 6s you mentioned.  I believe they make a version of a heavy-duty truss tie that might work. I'm sure you can find something in their catalog that will fill the bill for you.  Good luck.

                                                                     Mark

  2. Davo304 | Dec 25, 2002 09:43am | #2

    Hi Scooter.

      If I understand you correctly, your "vertical uprights" that you mentioned, are actually home-made 4X6 posts (three 2x6s ganged together)?  You are worried that lags won't have good holding strength when lagging into the side of the post, rather than lagging into the face? 

    Picture a stud wall. The the sheathing is attached to a stud wall by nailing the sheathing into the side of the stud. There is plenty strength holding power here. There is little holding power when objects are nailed into "end grain." In order for you to nail into "end grain," you would be nailing something to the top end of the post. Since rim joists don't sit flat on top of posts you are not attaching them to end grain. Rather, you will be attaching the joists to the sides of the posts...which is considered "long grain." Long grain has plenty of holding power.

    Instead of only relying on lags, you can notch the posts. The notch would be 1-1/2 inches deep, X 11-1/4 inches long ( this is equal to the thickness and the width of the 2X12 rim joist you are planning on attaching.) This notching gives the rim joist a "perch" on which to sit on  and takes most of the vertical load off the bolt.

    If you don't favor notching, adding a cleat underneath the rim joist helps to accomplish the same thing...though notching would be stronger than the cleat.

    Also, whenever possible, attach the joist to the post with a 1/2 inch dia carriage bolt or a machine bolt instead of a lag. A "thru-bolt"  is always stronger than a lag bolt of the same diameter. You don't have to worry about pull-out with a thru-bolt.

    If it was me, I'd notch the posts and lay the first rim joist in this notch and then nail this joist with 16d galv, spiral shank nails  I would nail into the two outer 2x6s. After installing the first layer of perimeter rim joists, go back and install the second layer. Nail this 2nd layer to the first . Drill through both joists at each post location. Drill 2 holes ( 1 near top...1 near bottom of joist location). Holes should be centered (2-1/4 inches in from outside post edge) and drilled through the middle-ganged 2x6 post.

    Bolting through both posts would require a bolt  approx 10 inches long. If you cannot obtain machine or carriage bolts in this long a length, you could opt to install lag bolts instead. Use at least a 5-1/2 inch lag in this situation. If you can obtain lags  slightly longer than 5-1/2, I would opt for the longer length .

    LOL.

    Davo

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