I’m looking for some ideas on how to connect a rim joist to the ends of three beams. They will all be in the same plane. The beams will carry floor loads and the rim joist will carry the wall that supports the gable end of the roof. I was thinking about using a simpson post cap cct/ecll and sinking it into the footings. My other thought was to use some heavy duty ell brackets and bolting them together. I don’t think that lags into the end will be enough to support the loads.
Andy
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Replies
the piers are supporting the load, not the connectors. At least it should be. block and shim if you have different depths of beam.
I refuse to accept that there are limitations to what we can accomplish. Pete Draganic
Take life as a test and shoot for a better score each day. Matt Garcia
ok, looked again, same depth beams so the piers should provide load bearing.
to bolt them together, I recommend timbertech lags. I've used them a few times and have been impressed.
I refuse to accept that there are limitations to what we can accomplish. Pete Draganic
Take life as a test and shoot for a better score each day. Matt Garcia
I was concerned about the rim joist rolling away from the beam ends that's why I was thinking about the bolt/ell option. If they set on the concrete, should they be PT lumber?
what are you using for decking over these joists? Usually the decking ties the 2 together to prevent the rim from rolling if there is ever a tendency to roll...
The way I see it, set your 4x8s (why 4x8s anyway?) on the piers, place the first 2x8 rim, toe nail away, then set the 2nd 2x8 and nail away again.
But I still gotta ask, why 4x8s?
The decking will be 3/4 plywood.
This is a small 8'x16' addition on the back of a cabin. Sort of a mud room.
The plywood will span the 8' from the existing wall to the rim joist.
The 4x8s will carry the floor joists that run parallel to the 16' side. There will be a door on one end and a storage for solar batteries on the other end. The existing cabin sits on 4x8s and the new beams will sister alongside of those for 24". I'd like to keep the hole digging to a minimum so going with 4x8s helped get ride of a couple holes.
I'm always open to suggestions, thanks for the replies.
With the 3/4 decking nailed correctly and some PL premium you shouldn't have a worry. It's about the same as any other wood joist floor construction.
you building this in earthquake country? I'd be more worried about your connection to the piers than I would the the beam/rim connection method.
Yep, earthquake country, the sierra mountains, out side of grass valley, ca.
I'll use simpson brackets in the piers.
With the wood setting on the concrete and about 12" off of the dirt should I be using PT beams and joists? Then I need to use stainless hangers and other hardware, don't I?
what's the locals doing?
Since it's elevated off the soil there won't be any issue of water form the soil to rot the wood, but you have termite issues in most of CA so PT would be useful but with the 12" of elevation (aka inspeciton window) for chekcing on termite advances and only at the piers you may be able to get by with white wood. Is there a building inspector that will be involved in this?
There should be termite treat companies available to treat the areas of the piers before & after you pour. They may frown on leaving the sonotubes intact after the CC cures since it's good termite food.
But if it was me, someone who is on the lookout for termites routinely I'd use white wood and skip the 4x8s and just use doubled or tripled 2x8s for your beams depending on your spans.
He lives where they stock 4x8's in the lummber yard.
well then price would be the driving factor for me.
Bingo!!
Thanks guys for the help.
I'll check prices on lumber, weigh the other actors in and go from there.
There will be no inspector on the job, but I still like to do things as if there was and or the best way.