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RING SHANK NAILS VS STAPLES FOR CEDAR…

| Posted in General Discussion on July 20, 2000 06:37am

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I AM RE-SIDING A HOUSE ON THE WEST COAST WITH CEDAR SHINGLES OVER SHIP-LAP AND 30lb FELT. I WAS PLANNING ON USING RING SHANK STAINLESS WITH NAILER,HOWEVER I NOTICED ON THE DIRECTIONS OF BITUMINOUS TAPE ROLLS THAT RING SHANKS AR NOT TO BE USED. I ASSUME IT IS BECAUSE THE RINGED SHANK MAY TEAR A SLIGHTLY LARGER HOLE THAN CAN ADEQUATELY SEAL AROUND THE NAIL. MY CONCERN IS IF THIS IS IN FACT THE REASON COULD IT ALSO BE A PROBLEM WITH THE FELT. SHOULD I USE STAPLES INSTEAD. THE WEATHER AND RAIN USUALLY COME IN HORIZONTALLY AND HARD.

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  1. Guest_ | Jul 15, 2000 11:49pm | #1

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    Steve

    TURN OFF YOUR CAPS LOCK KEY !!! You don't need to SHOUT at us.

    First off, let me get this straight. You want to install bituminous tape and then cedar shingles over an existing ship lap siding that has 30lb felt under it. Do I have it right?

    If so, where do you plan on putting he bituminous tape? Over each ship lap edge?, Completely cover the existing siding?

    First, I would not put cedar shingles directly over shiplap siding. It would only lead to problems with drawing the nails up too tight where the shiplap siding overlaps.

    If you plan on completely covering the old siding with the bituminous tape, then any moisture between the felt and tape would to problems down the road. rotting, mold, etc.

    Normally bituminous tape is used on roofs at the eaves to prevent ice dams from forcing water back upslope and getting under shingles and then down into the attic. I also use it around door and window openings, but never over an entire house (too expensive).

    If you really want to re-side the house with shakes, I'd recommend stripping off the old siding, check the existing sheating to ensure there is no rot or other problems and then put up the cedar shingles with no more than a 4" exposure. Overlapping joints would be no closer than 1 1/2". Remember to not butt shakes too tight since they have to have a little give and take.

    Second, I never use or recommend stapes with cedar shakes/shingles.

    vince

  2. Steve_Lohr | Jul 16, 2000 08:51am | #2

    *
    Vince,

    Thanks for your input. I'm sorry that I did not make myself very clear. What I am doing is stripping off all of the old shingles from a 60 year old home near the coast down to the ship-lap sheathing, replacing all of the rot and installing new vinyl windows. I am going to use bituminous tape around the windows and 30 lb felt everywhere else.

    The only reason I brought up the bituminous tape issue was that the directions on the tape said not to use ring shank nails. I therefore am wondering if I should use ring shanks through 30 lb felt like I was planning to.

    Also, any recommendations--I am looking at either the Hitachi siding nailer, or I have seen some recommendations here on this site for the Bostich siding nailer as well.

    Thanks again, and sorry for yelling--I'm new at this!

    Steve

  3. Guest_ | Jul 17, 2000 10:46pm | #3

    *
    Steve

    Glad to get the info.

    1. I've never had a problem with ring shanked nails in the tape. I guess some manufacturers just want to make sure they cover their butts. Since you are going to be using cedar shingles for siding vs roofing, I don't think you would have a problem.

    2. As for purchasing a nailer for this one job, you may want to think it over some more. Cost of nailer, cost of nails, 1 time use, etc. Additionally, trying to get it adjusted soe that it does not sink the nail too deep, or too light and you will start having problems. Another thing, if this is going to be a one man operation, Think of the steps. You are on staging, after layout line is done; pick up shingle, hold with one hand, bend down and get nailer, nail single, bend down to put nailer down, get shingle, etc. Also, air compressor, air hoses, extension cords, tool oil, etc. The other problem with a shingle nailer is not getting the feel if the nail is going to hold. Manually; put some nails between lips, grab shingle, hold shingle with one hand, grab hammer from tool belt, nail, grab another shingle, etc.

    If you planned on doing more than one house, nailer the way to go, but for one house, I'd think about it some more.

    Vince

    1. Guest_ | Jul 20, 2000 06:37pm | #5

      *Steve,I add horizontal furring strips to the side of the house after applying the felt to let the backs of the shingles dry out after rain. This keeps them from cupping and gives them a longer lifespan. I also nail with 1/4" crown staples. The pnuematic stapler was under $200.00 and payed for itself the moment I started banging away.David

  4. Steve_Lohr | Jul 20, 2000 06:37pm | #4

    *
    I AM RE-SIDING A HOUSE ON THE WEST COAST WITH CEDAR SHINGLES OVER SHIP-LAP AND 30lb FELT. I WAS PLANNING ON USING RING SHANK STAINLESS WITH NAILER,HOWEVER I NOTICED ON THE DIRECTIONS OF BITUMINOUS TAPE ROLLS THAT RING SHANKS AR NOT TO BE USED. I ASSUME IT IS BECAUSE THE RINGED SHANK MAY TEAR A SLIGHTLY LARGER HOLE THAN CAN ADEQUATELY SEAL AROUND THE NAIL. MY CONCERN IS IF THIS IS IN FACT THE REASON COULD IT ALSO BE A PROBLEM WITH THE FELT. SHOULD I USE STAPLES INSTEAD. THE WEATHER AND RAIN USUALLY COME IN HORIZONTALLY AND HARD.

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