Replies

1. 
   MarkH | Mar 06, 2011 01:20pm | #1

   I think it would work fine, but the saw may suffer from the dust.  I find that if you need a super nice edge it is possible by using a guide and a circular saw.  You can use a second plank as a guide for the saw.  Just make sure the shoe doesn't get under the guide plank, which can happen. 

2. 
   arcflash | Mar 06, 2011 03:03pm | #2

   A regular rip blade would work too, but plan on going through alot more of them and buy a nice respirator. What shears do you have that can't cut straight? I put the inside edge of the top cutter onto the chalkline and slow down a bit and I can get a pretty darn straight rip. Good side down and leave 1/8" for caulk and you're good to go. Sure the tablesaw would be straight, but your cutting a 12' board on the flat. Without some sort of support, be it a helper or extension, you're destined to break quite a few of those boards. Not to mention the dust, and it is some nasty stuff!

   If the frieze board isn't already up and you're that worried about a dead-straight edge maybe you could rabbet the bottom edge of the frieze and tuck the top course into it. Or you could clamp a shooting board onto the siding as a guide for your shears. A sinus infection is in your future if you use your tablesaw!

3. 
   Scott | Mar 06, 2011 10:44pm | #3

   I wouldn't. The dust will

   I wouldn't.

   The dust will be nasty for you and is also very hard on the saw. I've pretty much ruined my Bosch jigsaw with FC work. If I were to do it again I'd buy a $50 beater and dedicate it to FC.

   When I rip I always use shears (mine are by Malco) and put the cut edge up under the next course, or cover it with a trim board.

   If you're ultra worried about keeping a straight cut over 12'  then clamp a piece of extruded aluminum on the plank as a fence for the shears to follow. The Malco shears have straight sides that will follow a fence nicely.

   (No, I don't work for Malco or have any association with them, but their shears have been discussed many times here over the years. Good shears.)

4. 
   Wax1973 | Mar 07, 2011 01:58pm | #4

   Awesome advice people! It's me that can't cut straight with shears :~), but knowing that the Malco (and I assume others) shears have straight edges to run along a guide makes sense. Great tips. Thanks.  

5. 
   fbartel | Mar 15, 2011 01:44am | #5

   ripping Hardi plank

   I hope that this reply isn't to late to do you any good.  Several years ago I did a room addition on a 100+ year old house that had 21/2" lap siding, and we were to match it with Hardi plank.  We ended up using an old table saw, with a fiber cement blade in it.  Built an infeed table, and out feed table 12' long out of 2x12 material, and a fence on the infeed table to match the saw.  It was dusty to be sure, but we did it on a windy Kansas day, and it worked quite well.  We cut two strips out of each piece of Harde.  The new profile wont' work however as there is a top and bottom to each plank, and one piece would be inside out for the profile to work. 

6. 
   fingers | Mar 15, 2011 10:21am | #6

   I had the Makita fiber cement circular saw but didn't really like it for cut-offs, so I ended up mounting it upside down on a sheet of plywood for rips and it works quite well.  I spent way too much time inlaying the baseplate into the plywood so the surfaces would be flush, and made a pretty accurate fence.  Finally I even added one of those aluminum slots for a mitre guage.

   If I were to do it again, I'd just get a cheapo table saw and not worry about ruining it.

7. 
   tkiser | Mar 15, 2011 04:39pm | #7

   Ripping with table saw

   We used a 10" segmented dimond blade. It is messy but cut quick and straight. I had an old table saw.