Replies

1. 
   Ben_Carnes | Aug 25, 1999 06:01pm | #1

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   At our last house I wanted to do an interior dining room wall with what is called (here in L.A.) "Colorado Pebble." It is a red, very dense, smooth round rock, usually about four to six inches across and two to four inches thick. My concern was that there was no porosity to "grab" the mortar, so I used a combination of thinset and mortar to set them directly to a lathe-and-scratch -coat over shear panel wall. We worked from the bottom up and made the mixture sticky enough to hold the pieces in place without wires or toothpicks. The entry portion of this wall was about eleven feet high and the morning after having completed it, while working on the adjacent dining room wall, we experienced the Whittier Narrows earthquake, a fairly good shot in the San Fernando Valley. Not a rock came off, and after four years there was not a crack in the whole thing. The downside was we had to acid wash the wall to get the material off the face of stones and then grout (using standard mortar/grout mixture), but what a gorgeous wall.

   Got no scanner, so can't attach .gif. Was in my pre-digital days. Sorry.

   Hope that helps.

   -Ben

2. 
   Guest_ | Aug 25, 1999 06:24pm | #2

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   Robert - I veneered my 2 story chimney and the "back wall" behind my woodstove 10 years ago. We live East of Olympia, WA and used native stone, mostly the size you could hold in one hand.

   When I poured the footing for the chimney, I added 12" all the way around for the stone to sit on, and used plenty of steel. We attatched brick ties to the flue with masonry nails (next time I'll have the mason put the brick ties in the mortor) and made sure plenty of grout grabbed each of those.

   I read in my old Audell's carpenters library on how to mix mortor and stayed with their formula (maybe 1 cement, 3 lime, 5 sand?) and only laid up what I could do with One big wheel barrow of grout each night. Sometimes, I'd do two, but not often. Took the better part on a month, workin' evenings, but it came out ok. Of course, by the time I got decent, it was 20 feet in the air, and you really can't see it.

   Like any profession though, I'm sure a real mason would be embarrassed to leave a job the way mine turned out. I am pleased with it though, and many folks have commented on it through the years. If you e mail me your address I'll mail you a photo. - jb

3. 
   Robert_H. | Aug 27, 1999 09:01am | #3

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   Ben,

   Thanks for your remarkably prompt response. Your wall sounds outstanding. I used to live in Santa Monica and remember that earthquake very well...not as bad as where you were/are though.

   The condition I am concerned with is an exterior condition. I am not sure how to make sure the wall will be waterproof. There will be two details: 1. will be to lay the rock with masonry ties up against an existing concrete stem wall. There will be gaps behind the rock and I am unsure if I should provide weep holes at the bottom of the wall to allow water an escape route. Should the space behind the rock be solid grouted? 2. will be similar to #1 except the wall will be a 2x6 framed wall with building felt. Same questions and concerns about grouting and waterproofing.

   I hope I am not being a pest about this, but I have scoured just about every readable reference about this.

   I know a mason would be faster, neater and more expensive but I will get the hang of it be slower, more affordable and have a great feeling of accomplishment by doing this myself.

   Thanks again
   Robert

1. 
   Robert_H. | Aug 27, 1999 09:06am | #4

   *Jim,Thanks for your speedy response. I posted a reply to another response I received which I believe you can see below my original question. Please read this and let me know what you think. This cannot be rocket-science or maybe I am over-analyzing the whole wall assembly.Thanks again,Robert

4. 
   Guest_ | Aug 27, 1999 09:12am | #5

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   Seen alot of river rock jobs in the NW, some beautiful some not. Saw jb's and I plan on taking some lessons from him. If he'll take the pictures I'd be happy to scan them in for him. Maybe he's just naturally lucky. (or humble)

   JonC

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 27, 1999 10:42am | #6

   *Well I'm no expert but I am comfortable commenting on a couple things here. You don't need to fill the cavity between your stem wall and stone wall and I don't think you should fill the one between the stones and framed wall. I've always heard that you're supposed to keep all framing 2" away from any masonry and have seen many rotted rafters and ploor joists through the years to reinforce this thought. I think it would be smart to include weep holes and "cap" the cavity between walls and stone somehow with either a masonry cap or a small framed roof if you're not protected by house overhang. Keep water out of there, and give it a way to get out if it does somehow get in. - jb

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 27, 1999 10:44am | #7

   *troublemaker...ruckas raiser...picture scanner!

5. 
   Robert_H. | Aug 29, 1999 11:51pm | #8

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   Crazy legs et al....thanks a heap for the info I will do as recommend.

   If you guys want to talk in the future I have an icq address where we can talk in real time about this and other issues as my or your project(s) progresses.

   icq #46882019

   the name is rocketman

6. 
   Guest_ | Aug 31, 1999 07:32am | #9

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   jb's chimney

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 31, 1999 07:35am | #11

   *jb's chimney second view. Notice no one will stand close enough for a really good pic if he's up there with heavy stuff.

7. 
   Robert_H. | Aug 31, 1999 07:35am | #10

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   What is the best way to do this in the Pacific Northwest? I have not found consistent information on this yet. It will not be a big job or difficult...but fussy. Got a .gif to go with your advice?

   Thanks