I’m getting ready to put a cover of roll roofing down on an outbuilding roof that I have just covered with Grace Ice & Water Shield. the roof is shallow (parts are slightly less than 2 in 12). I had considered a rubber membrane roof but for various reasons decided to go with a layer of Ice & Water with asphalt over the top. here are my questions:
1) any functional reason to go for regular shingles rather than roll roofing? aesthetics are not a concern. its a complex roof – a roughly 15′ diameter octagon with another roof wrapped around 5 sides of the octagon. I’m thinking less waste with roll roofing – if I did shingles probably 75% of them would have to be cut.
2) I have 3 rolls of roll roofing that have been stored under cover for probably 6 years now. unfortunately they’ve been laying flat rather than standing on end so they are kind of elliptical rather than round, but not too bad. anyone know if this roofing will age/deteriorate if stored out of weather like this. I’d like to use them rather than throw in a dumpster, but if my roof will last 6 years less, I’d have to give this some thought …
thanks – Roy
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My opinion: Do NOT use shingles ... if you look at the minimum slope, I think it is greater than 2:12 (typically, if I remember right). AND ... the roll roofing should be OK, I would think ... let them warm up on the roof in the sun before unrolling and applying to avoid any problems with brittleness due to age or temperature. There may be some other reason not to use them, but I'm w/ you ... they are there and it's a waste not to at least buy some years of service from them.
Maybe someone will add something more knowlegeable to this.
I believe you covered it. Dimensional shingles are usable down to 2/12 over I&WS. 3 tabs down to 3/12.copper p0rn
throw that roll roofing in the trash. that stuff gets brittle and flaky to easy then starts to leak and a good wind will blow off big pieces. and then you have a billion nails and a fat doubled up seam to get rid of to replace.
just because you cut a shingle doesn't mean you waste it you simply use it to start with or somewhere else.
throw that roll roofing in the trash
Bad boy, you not green.
Put it on the free stuff list on CL, preferaby in the Seattle area <G>
I'm no fan of roll roofing but I can guarantee him leaks if he shingles that roof. There are peel'N'stick roofing products that look like roll roofing and would last much longer, but shingles?
No way Hosea!
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truth is that having had roll roofing fail on this roof already, I'm aware that its not a long-lived solution. that's why I'm primarily depending on the ice & water shield to be the roof membrane. the roll roofing (or shingles, if I were to go that route, which I'm not leaning towards) is really just a UV & physical damage shield for the ice & water shield layer - and so a crack here or there over time in the roll roofing does not pose the danger that it would were the roll roofing the primary water barrier.that's how I'm approaching, anyway.still interested in whether this seems like a reasonable approach & also if you think the 6 yr old roll roofing is worth using.Roy
Yes, if you have it warm as you unroll it, and if it was stored dry.
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"There are peel'N'stick roofing products that look like roll roofing and would last much longer, but shingles?
No way Hosea!"I went with the Grace Ice & Weather Shield rather than one of the granulated peel & stick products because its my impression that it adheres better & self-seals around nail penetrations better than the granulated products. downside is that it has to be covered with something - hence the consideration of roll roofing. now I'm wondering if covering the grace with a granulated peel'n'stick might be better than roll roofing. I think the cost is not too different ...thoughts on that approach???
I think you may be confusing the granulated ice and water products with products actually meant to stay in the weather.I have had bad luck with roll roofing, but if you are broke, use it. Let it warm up unrolled.
perhaps I am confused, as I've not used the granulated versions of ice & water shield. are they not made to be left exposed?
think what he's fetting at is there is a peel an stick roofing, not underlayment.
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Granulated ice and water shield products are not made to be left exposed. They are granulated to be safer to walk on while roofing. The non granulated can be very slick especially when wet or frosty.
I don't know what product some of you guys are talking about. I am describing one made to be used as a twenty year roof- which means that it is exposed to the weather. Why would a roof product not be expected to be exposed?
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126378.11 in reply to 126378.10
perhaps I am confused, as I've not used the granulated versions of ice & water shield. are they not made to be left exposed?
My reply was to this, re the granulated version of ice and water shield. You are correct that there are several brands of granulated peel and stick roofing and they are made to be exposed to the weather. I think that one brand name is Mule Hide.
thanks - having the grace I&W down already, at this point I'm just trying to figure out what best to cover it with. seems like another product with no or minimal fasteners would be preferable to nailing shingles or roll roofing thru the grace. so i'm intrigued by the idea of a peel&stick final layer. if you or anyone knows of any other brands of self-adhesive roofing, I'm not having much luck finding them via web searches.Roy
I don't see any problems with using the roll roofing, or at least giving it a try. Warm it up before trying to unroll it, and you'll find out pretty quick if it is still in useable shape. (If it's not, it'll crack and come apart on you or fracture when you drive fasteners through it.)
If you're worried about fastener penetrations being too large, use HT-65 1" crown staples instead of roofers. Much smaller diameter penetration.
Use bituminous 'pitch' (roofing cement) to glue down the upslope edges of the roofing, and run a bead under the overlapped edge too. Lap courses a minimum of 12". 'Roll' the pitch-glued edges down smooth with a wooden roller, then tack 'em down with staples.
If you can't get HDG staples, smear a dab of pitch over exposed fasteners. The electro-plated 'galvanising' on standard staples won't stand up to weather without rusting.
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The Polyglas I am familiar with still uses a base sheet that is like the grace I&W under it. It runs about a hundred bucks a square, much more expensive than roll roofing, but well worth it. It not only seals well, but needs no nails, and has a woven re-inforcing integral to it.If this is just a shed, the roil roofing might be OK, but if it covers any kind of finished space, I would definitely use a granulated peel'n'stick
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the building's in the grey zone between shed & finished space- mostly sauna & dressing room.I've got the Grace I&W down, so I'm committed to that. question is what to put over it. would the Polyglass product you are familiar with be suited for application on top of Grace or does it require its own proprietary base layer? I looked at their website and they have a whole host of products ...(or are you refering to the "Poly-Glas Ply" which comes from a different manufacturer?)thanks to all for weighing in on this!RoyEdited 11/10/2009 9:16 am by royboy <!-- ROYSETTGAS -->
Edited 11/10/2009 9:19 am by royboy
I think this one is called Elastoflex. It does call for their own proprietary base which I believe is better than Grace, but I have used it over Grace too.The proprietary would be more important when real concerned about warrantee
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Nope no shingles here either I was just trying to figure his logic of too much waste because he had to cut 75% of them.
I'd rubber that baby. It's really not that expensive.
not for what you get anyway.
Don't even think about using shingles on that low pitch in your climate.
The roll roofing will only last 5-10 years but if stored out of the sun and off the ground it will be OK, but has to be warm to unroll it and apply it. Stand it up inside overnight first and work it on a warm day.
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