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I need to replace my existing 2 in 12 single coverage mineral surface
roll roofing over the rear porch and kitchen.
My lumber yard does not stock double coverage material, so, for added
protection is it okay to apply # 30 saturated felt under the new single
coverage material?
Do you recommend installing the sheets in 12 to 18 foot lengths? The
roofer installed our old roof in 34 foot sheets, the width of the house.
TIA
Jon
Replies
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..i wouldn't use that junk anymore.. it was junk before they took the asbestos out of it.. and it got worse when they reformulated it...
try some of the modified bitumens...
one nice one for your purposes is Monsey "Low-slope"
its a peel-&-stick mineral surface ... buy the primer for it to ensure a good bond..if you don't have a smooth deck , strip the old roofing and lay a 3/8" or 1/2 inch ply as a base...
and it comes in 33 foot sheets .. so stagger your joints...
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Hello Mike,
Thanks for the advice.
The Monsey-Bakor web page list a high performance sobs modified bitumen, not the low slope material. Do you know where I may find a
sect. sheet on the web for the low slope material?
TIA,
Jon
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no, i don't have any other internet address.. try one of their numbers (land line)
USA (Penn.) 800-523-0268 or 610-933-8888
Can (Ontario) 800-387-9598 or 905-890-4800
the product name is "Lo-Slope" One Ply, or Two Ply, we've used both.. the one ply is also available in a tan color (like "cedar") both are available in black , and white..
one ply is 10 year waranty
two ply is 15 year warranty..
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Mike,
The material you recommend is not available at our local material
supplier.
Can you address the original question?
Tia,
Jon
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If you do go with the regular roll roofing, put it down smaller lenghts. I believe the manufacturers recommend using sections 10-12 ft. long. 3 pieces at 12' should give you a nice big end-lap. Jeff
*Mike's the man again...roll roofing is junk...I often install ice and water shield, then overlay with standard shingles...no problems so far...I use the best..Gracenear the stream,aj
*I held off posting until Ad Jack brought up the point. Some, many years ago I wanted to cover a 3/12 shed dormer roof with shingles so that it wasn't a "blotch" on the rest of the house's roof, as far as looks went, had it been rolled material and rest shingled. I specified ice and water shield over the whole surface, in this case the Certainteed product (WinterGuard?), with shingles matching the rest of the roof over it. The contractor was confident enough of it to extend his warranty to that section, something he probably wouldn't have done otherwise. Though the underlayment was expensive, material is still only about 20%-25% of a roofing job, I figure, and a little more there is probably worth it not to be fixing leaks later. It worked. Looked great and no leaks. Everyone happy.
*is there any concern with using ice/water shield over an entire roof? Or does the ridge vent take care of any 'breathing' needs well enough?
*Yes, there will be heat/moisture build-up. Be sure to vent. Soffit and ridge will work. Last year I built a sloped roof over an existing flat rubber roof. The owners wanted the same profile over a flat roofed kitched bump-out and a too shallow pitched ( 1/12) roof over a deck. Made one continuous roof, and was able to pick the pitch up to 2.5/12. The shingle rep. said they'd allow down to a 2/12 if ice shield was used on whole roof deck. The local inspector (in a town known for tough inspectors) allowed this only with continuous venting. Used laminated shingles(Certainteed , I think). All is well so far! Jeff
*CertainTeed warrants their shingles for low slopes (2/12 to 4/12) if a waterproofing material, like their WinterGuard is installed under it.
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Can you take a stab(ballpark) at what it may cost to cover 6 squares?
Thanks,
Jon
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I definately agree with the Ice and Water shield under normal shingles. I have an addition on my house with a 1.3-12 pitch with 2 skylights. I covered the entire roof with I&W shield and have had no problems up here in michigan with leaking (only the factory seal on the skylight). The only additional thing I would do is seal the overlaps with a sealant. I used NP1 a professional urethane sealant. Some of the I&W shield has a non-slip sanded surface which dosen't bond to itself very well. If you want to prevent any possibility of leaking this extra step is worth it. especially with the cost of the product.
*Grace sticks to itself very well...It's my choice....near the stream,aj
*Hey A J, Have you noticed that Grace has gotten less stickey over the last couple of years. Steve
*The package of at least one brand of ice/water shield (I can't remember which) specifically warns that if the product is used over the entire roof, then venting is important. I once found a web site with lots of info about how to roof (again, I can't find it now!) and it specifically warned against doing an entire roof with ice/water shield due to concern about the deck rotting.I find it interesting that this concern arises with this product so much more than it does with a felted and shingled roof. Could it be that moisture finds its way through a felted and shingled roof better than is generally thought?Rich Beckman
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I need to replace my existing 2 in 12 single coverage mineral surface
roll roofing over the rear porch and kitchen.
My lumber yard does not stock double coverage material, so, for added
protection is it okay to apply # 30 saturated felt under the new single
coverage material?
Do you recommend installing the sheets in 12 to 18 foot lengths? The
roofer installed our old roof in 34 foot sheets, the width of the house.
TIA
Jon