Hi all,
First, let me say I’m not a roofer, and should I hire one.
I have no problem putting on a shingle roof if necessary.
My father-in-law has a house with a low angle rolled roof.
I know the roof was replaced about 20 years ago.
Pardon me, actually, they put another layer over the first one.
I know he has leaks around the sky lights and the corners have lifted a bit.
With 2 layers on, should the old roof be removed first? (I think, yes)
The sky lights should be replaced, the top plastic covers have cracks, and I can’t find replacements.
How good are these rolled roofs?
I think he should put on a metal roof, but he doesn’t want to spend the money.
This is Ski area, and winters can be bad.
Any info and knowledge would help alot.
The fellow who works with me also knows little about these roofs, and feels we should hire it out.
Finding someone who really knows what to do might be a problem up here.
Jeff
Replies
Three layers would be far too much, especially in a snow/ice climate. You end up depending on the old seals and flashings too much.
Look into the peel and stick membranes similar to the old double coverage - like Polyglas.
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Around here roll roofing is the poor mans roof material delegated mostly to sheds. On low slope roofs with tarred seams you may get adequate service out of it for awhile .But for looks it will definetily telegraph anything under it in a matter of time.
One thing about roll roofing and it might of been Ken Kern; why take a big piece of waterproof material and cut up to a bunch of pieces(shingles).?
I agree, roll roofing is better suited to warehouses, and porch roofs, but this is what he has, and even though I like metal, it is not right for every job and he has already ruled it out and made budget a primary concern.
Given those parameters, he should tear off the old and re-roof with a peel/stick like Polyglas which is a step up from the old hot mopped or cold applied, IMHO
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Piffen
I'm not familiar with Polyglas.
Can you tell me more or where to get more info.
Personally, if it were me I'd put on a Standing Seam Metal Roof, alot of the houses are going that way up there.
But, he's my father-in-law and in his 80's, so I don't get alot of say in this.
I'm mostly involved in this to keep him from driving my wife crazy.
When I re-did his sunroom about 5 or so years back, I saw the roof was bad back then.
If you want to know more about the "Sunroom from Hell", just get me talking sometime.
Jeff
My son's garage (circa 1955) has a 1:12 pitch; we saw a video in HD on Henry's low slope membrane roofing product and we're going to install it this summer.
Requires that you put down an OSB "sub-roof", seal it and then apply the "peel 'n seal" membrane. With no nail penetrations, hopefully will prevents the leaks he's getting now. Hope this helps.
Rookie
it's just a peel'n'stick ma=embrane like the ice and water shield products only heavier, with re-inforcing fabric and a mineral surface. I do the ice and water shield first and then this for a final. but it is supposed to be OK straight on the ply if you do this and that.
I took photos when I used it last but must have misfiled them. can't find right now.
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Piffin
I don't think I've ever seen it used here in Vermont.
Most houses have a pretty good slope (7/12 is very common) but the houses with the Ski Chalet have a lower pitch.
Personally, I'm not a fan of roofing.
Since I need to re-shingle my house and garage this summer, I'd rather not have to do his also.
On the other hand, he will pay me, so it could be worse.
How hard is this peel and stick stuff to work with?
It's a real pain to use the Ice and Water Barrier (we have a few select nicknames for it here) and I've never gotten good with it.
Any rough ideas on cost to compare it to shingles or metal.
I know the Grace Ice and Water costs $80 per roll here.
Jeff
It does take a modicum of patience to work with it but by thinking things through, you can do a decent job. Have to roll it out in place and precut it, then backroll halfway with the other half heavily weighted ( a MIL will do) to prevent movement/ shifting.
can't remember price off the top of my head but $200/sq sticks in there somehow.
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a MIL? Mother-in-law ?
a MIL? Mother-in-law ?
Want to borrow mine? One problem though, how do you haul her up to the roof?
Pall bearers?
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Here in LA, flat roofs (1 in 12) with roll roofing hidden by parapet walls are very common, especially on apartments.
-- J.S.
'course it never rains in LA
;)
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Don't we need to know how low his pitch is? In another thread you have said that shingles can be applied on a 3/12 pitch, and I've seen (on shingle manufacturer's websites) special installation instructions for doing this. Apparently some options include putting down the special membrane first.
he did say it was a low slope and already had a rolled roof product on it. That speaks worlds to me. It's probably 1/12 or 2/12
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Piffin, have you branched out?View Image
what am I missing?
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Did the picture not come through? Thought you may have found some extra work and a use for left over tin.
Saw the picture but didn't get the segue`
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I was just sharing a picture and trying to be funny that maybe you had a new profit center for left over roofing. I thought you had shared advice on metal roofing before. Guess I should have written it better.
Cheers,
Bob
torch down rubber roof or if you wanna do it yourself I bet you could handle a rubber glue down roof.
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Roll roofing is certainly the cheap way to go, but don't expect to get more than 10 years out of it, and I wouldn't apply it over what you have. Torchdown would work well, but it isn't really a DIY product, and you might have some real problems with it around those plastic skylights.
The peel and stick products, Hypsam for one, are pretty user friendly, although you do have to be a little careful with it in warm weather, lest you end up like a rat on a glue trap. It has to be applied to a clean and prepped surface, such as new OSB or plywood. Rubber would work better, but you'd be better off working with someone who has done it before.
Good Luck,
Jake