I am framing the roof of a small timberframe structure using 4×4 fir. The structure is completely timberframed however I am framing the roof with traditional techniques (i.e., ridge beam, etc.). I need to make a 60 degree cut in the roof rafters to attach to the ridge beam. What is the best way (accurate) to make a 60 degree miter cut in a 4×4?
Thanks for any help.
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Replies
I would set up a solid workstation, with 12" compound miter saw. long fence to one side, lined up with the saw fence as close to perfect as you can get it.
Clamp that sucker down, make an accurate mark, and score it with a utility knife. I`ll fire up the 044 and cut it to 1/16" and brush it down to the line. It`ll be quick, loud, and accurate as all heck. (I`m not joking. With practice, you can be a wizard too!) In very short order, all pieces will be done and ready to place. If you`re lucky, I`ll let you a few thousanths to chisel flat, just so you can remember what it is you`re working with...a tree that grew in one spot for a century or so. :)
In case you are wondering, msseater is talking about a chain saw. A big one. But a small one would do fine.
The 12" miter saw works too but it's harder to move rafters than to move a more portable type of saw, so if you're not up for hand sawing, you could buy or rent a larger bladed circular saw like a bigfoot or a makita made for timber framing. Or you could use a regular circ saw and hit it from both sides, or just one side and finish with handsaw using the kerf as a guide. Or sawzall it, same plan.
Chainsaw followed by chisel and or belt sander is a good fast way. The purist uses a handsaw.
Everything else is in between.
I suggested the miter saw because he stated that accuracy was a priority. Figured if he had to ask, better not steer him too much to the wild side.
My timberframe is posted in the general discussion section under, went to vist the wacko.
you need an accurite saw and well frankly the chainsaw idea requires a too delicate hand and a bunch of experiance.
use a Mikita model 5402 circular saw. 16 5/16ths diameter saw. It's a big circular saw that will easily cut thru a 6 inch thick timber right exactly on the numbers.. With mine I can shave a slice off so fine you can read newsprint thru it.. really! (well,.. OK the headlines)
That sucker spins slow enough that you'd swear it's gonna stall but the sawdust pours out of the discharge chute and keeps on cutting..
It uses 110 volts so power shouldn't be a problem but don't use a flimsy extension cord.. I use a 10 gauge one on mine..
Mafell also makes a big saw, but it takes 220 volts and is almsot twice as heavy while being 4 times as expensive..
4x4?
Make a box that fits over the 4x4's with a 60degree edge to use as a guide.
Use a circular saw.
Finish with a hand saw
I love the big foot. The bigger beam saws are fine for bigger material but that big foot is mounted on a regular skil worm so its extremely maneuverable and easy to use, you'll break it out all the time. One pass through 4X two passes through most other beams so no finishing off with hand saw or sawsall and you can cut wide I joist in one pass too! I also use it for plating as it cuts two plates.
Edited 5/31/2003 3:56:14 AM ET by SCOTCRPNTR
Circular saw (which you already have) and a 4" grinder fitted with a 24 or 32 grit sanding disc for the final fit. Belt sanders are nice too, the grinder is faster.
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