Hey guys! been many years since I’ve posted anything here.
I’m building a garage and i want to incorparate exposed rafter tails and underside of the sheathing on the overhangs. I do not want to see roofing nails protruding through the sheathing where its visable under the overhangs, so i plan to use thicker material in these areas.
My question is if i am using 5/8″ plywood for the sheathing of the roof, then I switch to 1-1/8″ rough cut pine sheeting where its visable from below, how does the change in thickness effect the roofing material? is there a common way to adress this situation?
i plan to use cedar shakes (hand split 3/4″-1″ thick) so the roof will not be a very flat manicured look, but im worried about seeing the sheathing thickness difference telgraphing through the shingles.
How do you guys treeat a situation like this?
Replies
Use scabbed on rafter tails for the soffit and drop them down so that the top of the sheathing is even.
How about 3/4" plywood on the
How about 3/4" plywood on the roof, and use 1" nails on the lowest few courses of shingles?
gecko
I agree with the dropped tails, I'd probably cut them down. You could stick with the thicker pine or use thinner and make it up with plywood over-run your sheething over the whole shebang (but hit the tails).
Tails
I agree with calvin&florida, simplest method is to cut down the rafter tail by 1/2", make everything flush. A couple of things along with this is the blocking and a barge rafter, if you have a gable roof. The bird-blocks can be ripped but the gable will take some creative thinking.
What type/shape of roof is it?
Just an odd idea to toss out there: You could use something akin to a floor leveling compound to make a taper over maybe 2 feet. Obviously you'd want a product with sufficient body that it would hold its place on the slope, and one that is suitable to the conditions.
Thanks for the great suggestions guys. I think I've found a solution that will work for me.
I think I can bridge the height difference by nailing cedar shingles (not shakes) to the plywood sheathing that will ramp up to meet the pine sheeting. the shingles I would use are 1/2" at their thickest and taper to nothing, so this seems like it would worrk really well.
The shakes that I will use for the roofing are irregular anyway, so I doubt any height differnce would be perceptable once complete.
solution
Thanks to everyone for their consideration on this matter, and their ideas.
I think I found a method that will work well for me. My plan is to use cedar shingles (not shakes) nailed to the plywood sheathing to ramp up to the thicker pine perimiter boards. the cedar shigles are 1/2" at thier thickest and taper to nothing, so they should work well for this application.
The roofing will be cedar shakes, and are pretty irregular in thickness themselves, so I don't think any of this will telegraph through and be seen in the end.
My First Thought...
... would be to rip 1-1/2" strips out of 1/2" CDX then use those to build up the rafters under where the plywood sheathing was to go.
Adds a lille more space too for ventilation if you plan on insulating the roof later on; just need to use longer nails to secure the sheathing.
What are potential drawbacks to this solution other than T&M for the strips?
Rip the tops of the rafter tails. I did this on my own house, sheathing this area with T1-11 facing down. Then I ran 5/8 sheathing over everything. With 1 1/4 roofing nails, no problem.