Any suggestions as to
How to deal with the junction of asphalt roofing and clapboards @ dormer sides?
The gap between shingles and claps is about 3/4″ or less and this tends to fill with pine needles, and debris which holds moisture.
Siding and roof are in good shape- so a tear apart redo is not an option.
My thoughts are foam backer rod or lead covering the joint.
These options don’t seem to be the best visually.
If anyone has the correct drawing detail/technique I’d appreciate the info.
Thanks
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If the step flashings are sound I'd do nothing.
The flashings are good.
The build up of debris holds moisture which in turn rots the rake cuts& corner boards which were primed and painted.
I find this a common problem here in Mass.
If a 2" flashing exposure is used (as some drwgs detail) it looks fugly.
There must be some esthetically pleasing solution..........
leaf blower
Leaf Blower
That was what I was using(cleaning gutters) when the debris build up became evident.
Cut it up 2" and then cap it with an overlayed 1x4 held up 7/8". The board might still rot but they are easy to remove and replace. FKA Blue (eyeddevil)
BMc,I had a client once who had the same worry. To please him we did a two part flashing system. First was the standard step flashing then shingles. Then we custom bent a painted sidewall over-flashing. Cedar siding went over that. The angle on the over-flashing was at least 10 degrees (may have been more, can't remember )to shed water and leaves. Whatever the case, it seemed to do the trick.>>>see sketch. I'm not sure how you could fit such a trim under your siding as is, but I suppose you could try cutting the siding higher and pull or cut any nails behind then sneek the over-flashing up and under. Mine was about 4" vertical but I suppose you could go down to about 1-1/2" or even just 1". As for the backer rod ideal...how would you even attach that? The lead ideal seems a bit expensive and maybe overkill.good luck
gk
I don't know what that gains over what he has now.Currently there is a 3/4" space between the flashing/shinges and the buttcut of the siding.your extra flashing raises this in elevation, but the same space is there and can still have needles and debris fill it.
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sounds like some trees need to be cut:)
Every day is a gift, that's why it's called the present.
No, it is a totally different scheme. In my understanding, he has a typical gulch between where the shingles end and the flashing begins.It is the compaction in the corner or the friction of something being wedged between the siding and the shingles that starts the piling up of debris. My over-flashing was designed to be a smooth surfaced, slightly angled to curb away debris and move it on its way. Think about it.As I said in my post, The angle may have been more than 10 degrees. The point was that I did it before and it worked just fine. It became a nice little detail too as the house was prarie style and very angular. gk
Edited 12/1/2007 10:21 pm ET by Dreamcatcher
Good info.
I guess it being existing conditions.
And not wanting to reroof or reside to reflash.
My intention is to lessen the "gulch" space so #### won't hang up and hold moisture.
My newest interest is the black foam (to match roof color) that is being used for water gardens.
I'm thinking of getting a can of that and see if it can spew decent looking caulk line @ the "gulch" .
I have no idea how long that stuff would last.
But Hay?
I might give er a try.............
What Say Ye Maties?
What Say Ye Maties?
Go for it. Someday, someone might actually re-invent the wheel.http://grantlogan.net/
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i would put in a 5/4 (or whatever will match with the existing cornerboard) water table. i think azek pvc trim is an excellent product for this application.
Every day is a gift, that's why it's called the present.
It's a bit late in your situation since your siding is already installed, but we use a "Z" over the roofer's step flashing. We'll usually go up 3", in 1/2" to 2" (depending on application), sloped down, then up the wall 3-4", flash and paper over that, then side over that.
If you keep the bottom of the "Z" off the step flashing/roof shingles about an inch, it should not "catch" any of that garbage that gets stuck in there. This does a good job of keeping the siding (especially if it's wood) a good 3-4 inches off the roof. The downside is that it's not as "clean" of a look as you see that 3" bottom leg running up your rake. One more advantage though is that this allows the roofer to come back, next year, 5 years, later etc, and slip new steps under the "z".
Here's a picture of one way to do it. However, it's not very likely in this case unless you're willing to rip up some siding.