I can’t get a reasonable price to reroof my own house. (I’m getting prices of up to $400/square) So with winter coming and a hurricane on the way I’m just gonna block out some time and do it myself. I have a GAF defective timberline roof presently and it’s getting worse by the day.
So I’m looking for help on fall protection systems. Particularly harnesses. Recomendations gladly accepted. I can find very little on the net for sale, where does one purchase such a thing and what should I look for?
Anyone got something used for sale?
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Replies
Don't have a web site, but Miller fall protection has a toll free #.
1-800-873-5242.
$400.00/sq? Must be a reason.
Good luck.
.... a hurricane on the way ....
You're going to finish it in the next two days? I'm just trying to get the trim on the gable ends nailed down better, and I think I'm being ambitious.....
The first question to consider is whether you want to work tight or loose. Is the roof steep enough that you need to be supported by your rope and harness to be there, or can the rope be slack, with a running grab that engages if you actually fall.
I'm scared of heights, so I worked my 7 in 12 with tension on the rope at all times. I started with a lightweight Miller roofer's harness, and found it to be too uncomfortable used that way, so I went back and bought a Yates. I also got a second rope grab, so I can inch my way down to the ground if I go over the side.
Be sure to provide yourself with secure places to attach your rope. The impact of a fall requires a lot stronger attachment than working tight. And have enough points that you'll never have to worry about a swinging fall.
The Miller is hanging in the closet, IIRC it was about $170, located in Los Angeles. I got all this stuff from VER Safety in Burbank, Google can find them for you. Dan Ward at VER is the expert. I'm in the office today (Monday 9-15), and I'll be in again Friday. The rest of the week I'll be working on lookouts, fascia, and jack rafters....
-- J.S.
Every construction worker in the Province of Ontario must have Fall Arrest Training to work on any building.
My advice would be to ensure you have proper training BEFORE you strap on a harness and put your butt on the line.
Caught two painters last week on my project with harnesses and lines secured to the top rail. Problem was they were working 30 ft. up with 35 ft. of safety line. They thought it was easier to do their work if they didn't have to re-tie as they worked around the corner rails.
I've worked on heights all my life and I still take a breath every time I step onto a swingstage off a 20 or 30 story building.
Get the best equipment you can get, get instructed in the safe use of it and enjoy a safe career.
Gabe
This is no career, it's hopfully a one time adventure.
Heights really don't bother me but I have an appriciation of gravity kills.
____________________________________________________If you were arrested for being a quality builder would there be enough evidence to convict you?
with the hurricane coming there is a once ina lifetime chance to elevate yourself with no ladders, scaffold, or even bother to fuss with safety ropes.
build yourself a box kite... and attach your self to it with about 10 miles of wire on a spool.
when the wind kicks up , luanch the kite, it should pick you up too if the winds are strong enough. Pay out enough wire so your at the right height to remove and replace the chingles.
It's not the gravity that kills; it's the sudden stop!
"I am not young enough to know everything."
- Oscar Wilde (1854-1900)
Your favorite big box HD has fall protection equipment.
Pawn shops may might have used equipment.
It is a lot safer if you get some training on how to use the equiment safely. But if you can't get the traing or don't have time read the instruction on how to use it.
If you can't get a"reasonable price "to re-roof your house-----and you are getting prices of up to $400/square-------
Perhaps you are the one who is not being reasonable?
Perhaps the people who have given you prices so far----know something about this project that you don't?
Perhaps the people who have given you prices so far----know something about YOU that you don't?
Is a "reasonable price" determined by one's ability to pay?
but I feel for you----those !@#$%^& car dealers won't sell me the Mercedes I want at a "reasonable price" ,so I am making do with my old Fords'
I dunno, Steve- I haven't even seen the house, and $400/Sq sounds pretty reasonable to me- how about to you? lol
Bob
Bob,
$400/sq. doesn't sound at all out of line to me.
I just checked my records for the year so far------
one of the roofs we did worked out to about $145/sq.
another comparably sized roof worked out to $763/sq.( plus additional charges for repairs to a garage)
$400/sq falls well within my "reasonable price" range LOL
See why I don't use a simple per square multiplier? LOL
I did have a chance to look at the picture of the house under discussion-------
I don't think $400/sq is really out of line. with a quick glance I think I counted about 9 starts/tieins, just on the side of the house we can see.site looks reasonably remote so I would bump my price up. looks like a long haul to get rid of debris, so I would bump my price up.
Nah, $400/sq doesn't look bad at all.
I was on the board of managers at my condo complex and we hired the landscapers to also get on the roofs, which by the way had a very steep pitch, to clean out the gutters on front and back of the units.
Their method of fall protection was to have two guys on the roof each with backpack blowers, one in the front of the units and one in the back, tied together with a length of rope attached to their waists that ran over the peak of the roof.
I guess they thought if one guy fell, the other would be able to catch him. Wonder if they compared each others weights before they came up with that idea. Real geniuses. Sometimes you have to wonder.
We didnt use them again for that.
Larleb old sock! How's your chain saw?
Neat story. In spite of appearances, it'd work, even if one guy outweighed the other two to one: there's a heck of a lot of friction where a rope passes over a roof ridge, especially with asphalt shingles. Even with a bushed pulley, riggers always figure 5% friction loss per sheave with fibre rope.
Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
Hey there. The saw is great. I resolved the issue as noted earlier as a very very dull and banged up chain. Replaced that and learned how to field sharpen and its been great ever since. Had 3 trees taken down (by a pro) since they were near the house but I've been cutting them up myself and splitting for firewood. Having a good old time. Good excercise too. Havent had any problems with the saw since.
Thanks for asking.
I've got a Mental Safety Harness that I'll send you on-line, for free.
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=34292.1
Sorry to ask a dumb question, but what's a GAF defective timberline?
BTW, why do it now before the hurricane? Wait till Isabel knocks the snot out of it and then let your insurance co. pay the $400 per square.
Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
Dino-
GAF had a bad couple of years in the early 90's . There was a class action lawsuit that will be sending me some bucks but I'm not expecting much.
As for the 400/square it's very hard to find someone who actually does the job themselves. Every company that has looked at it so far sends a suit out to give it a look. I don't do well with suits I'll admit. I want see the person who will actually do the job. Not sub it out 4 times before it actually gets to the working man.
One suit told me he quotes 5 roofs a day. Said mine would take 4 guys 3 days. Well based on his price he doesn't get a very good percentage of the jobs but the ones he gets pay the big bucks. But not my bucks.
_________________________________________________________________If you were arrested for being a quality builder would there be enough evidence to convict you?
Where are you located? And what's the pitch and configuration?
Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
Maryland.
A few different roof slopes from 5/12 to a small section that's 16/12
Majority is 1 story from grade. the only 2 story is all 5/12 pitch.
Sections are small and workable by a small crew that's why I'm considering doing it myself.
Here is a pic of the house and a pic of what a defective shingle looks like
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If you were arrested for being a quality builder would there be enough evidence to convict you?
Maryland's a bit far for me. I'd have to charge you half a grand just to drive down, what with the price of gas.
George, that roof looks like a piece of cake. I don't see any need for any special gear; rent yourself enough scaffolding to get up to the eaves level on the longest section you've got, and do it one slope at a time. If you don't have and can't rent any roof jacks, just nail in some 2x4 toe boards; I've done numerous 10 in 12s with nothing more than that.
Wear your work boots while stripping. When you start shingling, wear sneakers. They don't tear up the new shingles as much.
Apply pitch from tubes with a caulking gun. It'll save you material and mess.
Hot spots to watch: the flashing around that skylight; and the point where the flashing folds over the ridge of the dormers. I use galvanized flashing mostly. If you want to paint it, it's gotta be acid etched and primed first, tho.
Double cover with your felt. Felt is cheap insurance. I don't see any place where the slope's shallow enough to warrant ice&snow membrane, especially in your climate. (I take it that photo was shot in mid winter, LOL.)
Replace any bunged up drip edges, and pitch them down. trim the felt flush with the edge of the metal; overhang the shingles ¾" all around. Use a double-thick starter row on all the eaves, and a vertical reversed row of shingles up the rakes before you start your courses.Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
Ebay lists a number of safety harnesses. However, I stopped buying from Ebay long ago.
My local safety store has at least half a dozen types of safety harnesses. Somewhat to my surprise, their prices were fully competitive. I bought a cheap one - I think it was around $50. It has buckles for leg size adjustment, which means that there are about six discrete sizes possible. Supposedly these cheaper harnesses are just as safe as the more expensive ones, just not as compfortable. The one I bought also has only a single D ring in the back - which is fine for working from a manlift.
I also bought a second, more expensive one that was on sale at my local welding shop. The original price was about $140 but went for $60. This one has more flexibility in adjustment and has D rings on the sides as well as the back.
Just a couple of thoughts
1.if this is a failed product how come the original installer and manufactor are not involed?
2.Why would you want to trust your life to something that is used and you don't know where.You don't buy used brake shoes for car do you?
As for the harness miller is great,but in using them I have found that the better ones are easily put on , the cheap ones just seem to be a real pain to put on