I have screwed up. I am building a small outbuilding that requires nice trimwork. I accidentally fastened the gable rake fascia (1 X 6) under the roof deck flush with the edge of the deck. In my haste to get the roof on before the monsoons began, I then cut my shingles to extend 3/8″ past the edge of the deck.
Consequently, if I add additional trim (1 X 2) to hide the edge of the roof deck it will not be covered by any shingles…Any suggestions on how I can achieve
The drawing will help visualize my problems… or this one at least 🙂
Thanks in advance, you folks are great!!!
Replies
Rent or borrow a brake and bend some aluminum to cover your whole fascia.
Good luck
Cliffy
If you want the additional piece of wood, then nail it on and cut back and add new shingles to stick over the additional piece of wood. I always stick the shingles past 3/4". Never seen it 3/8"
If you are happy with 3/8" and don't care about the additional piece and don't want to cut the shingles back, then take the rake off and cut the plywood and stick the rake back up flush to the top of the plywood and then your shingles will be stick past your rake.
2" wide drip and skip the trim...
1/4" trim..
1/2" fascia and 1/2" trim..
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Similar to what Cliffy says, you can go to the lumberyard or roofing supplier and order sheet metal trim. "Gable trim" is just sheet metal bent at a 90-degree angle. One leg goes under the shingles and one leg lays down onto the face of the barge rafter. "Eave trim" is sheet metal bent to match your roof pitch (tell them the roof pitch when you order) and again, one leg under the shingles and one over the fascia.
I get my roofing trim in painted galvanized steel to match either the shingle color or the house trim color. I always asked for a kick-out on the vertical leg, to direct water off the wood.
What's FUBAR mena?
Time to get the shingle stretcher out. I've got one I'll rent you!
If you don't want to do it right, then just rip that shadow trin strip to be 5/16" thick, prepaint it, and install with a bead of caulk to the shingles
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Oh, wise one; you, of all people should know what FUBAR means! :-)
"Screwed" Up Beyond All Recognition
Oh
I see you have a new signature line!;) tee hee
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I keep one of these in the back of the truck for just this sort of situation:
View Image
me ... especially if you are using architecturals
i'd put my shadow board on.... AND i'd run drip edge down the rake
then i'd use dutchmen like framer said to get the overhang i want with the shingles
even if it's 3-tab, i'd still use dutchmen
Mike you're not advocating partial tabs are you?!!!
It's a small outbuilding so it won't take more than an hour to cut back the shingles and get it done right.
blueOur Skytrak is for sale. It has 500 hrs on it. We want 50k (you pay the freight) and we'll finance it. Drop me an email; it's a good buy.
i'm advocating to trim it out the way he wants and then make the shingles work
the trim is more important to me than the shinglesMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I agree Mike. The entire thing could probably be re-roofed in half a day.
blueOur Skytrak is for sale. It has 500 hrs on it. We want 50k (you pay the freight) and we'll finance it. Drop me an email; it's a good buy.
Thanks all! great ideas! I'll let you know how I proceed
David
I agree with Cliffy on this one. You can skip the 1x2, but simulate the look of it with a couple bends in the metal. Instead of a rectangular cross section, you could make it triangular to tuck the top bend up under the shingles, while maintaining the same shadow line on the bottom.
-- J.S.