I am looking for advice/ guidance direction… on rehabbing older windows. websight/ or anyone with some experience..
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
This home features dramatic interior spaces enhanced by views of the surrounding trees and stream.
Featured Video
How to Install Cable Rail Around Wood-Post CornersHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
When you say rehap do you mean tune up the old parts. or scrub in favor of new sash and counter spring?
Wallyo
Check out John Leeke's
Check out John Leeke's Historic Homeworks site - lots of info on rehabbing older windows.
Your four choices are:
1) Just clean up what you have, make the stops fit tighter, maybe throw on some weatherstripping. This is fairly obvious work -- just replace/repair what you find.
2) Replace the weights and ropes with spring balances. This eliminates the weight pocket (which can now be insulated) without seriously affecting overall authenticity. Reasonably low cost, but not much improvement in sealing, etc.
3) Replace weights/ropes with a combo spring balance and sash seal system. The old stops are removed and discarded, the edges of the sashes are machined to fit into metal tracks, and the tracks are installed inside the old frames.
4) Replace the windows with new units, either leaving the old frames or replacing frames and all.
Last summer I attended a seminar on traditional windows where I was surprised to to learn that exterior storm windows add an R-value as good as double pane glass. I have installed and now detest spring balances to replace counter weights. I would suggest replacing sash rope if painted and adding storm windows.
I used these (see link below) on 2 of my windows in my circa:1680 house as well as adding storms to all my windows and reglazing all 30 of my 12 over 12's.
Made a huge difference! See my website below (it's the Goose Hill Rd. Project)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002C8BEYE/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_3?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002P0XXDE&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0RGEPWZZZ9M007XZBP9A
In our area there are specialty subs doing rehab and weatherstripping. Cost is around the same as purchase price for a new quality (Marvin) window (less installation of new), including reglazing which is nearly-always needed/recommended.
"exterior storm windows add an R-value as good as double pane glass"
Well ... not quite as good as Low E II w/argon but it's not bad. Plus you can have the storms made with Low E on the inside of the storm pane.
Jeff just to add a bit to the above suggestions one could do a double pane storm with low e and arogon gas. I have not done low e and gas but I have made double pane storms make the wood frame order the glass panes. Then you weather strim them in with a good quality silicone bubble weather strip.
Wallyo
You sure could - but the weight and expense would be considerable, and the window rabbet would have to also be considerable in order to hide the spacer. You'd want that to be a permanent storm, not a removable one (too much risk that a bump could take out the seal).
The ones I have done for folks get taken down once a year for cleaning maybe at that. As far as the seal goes no more chance of bumping then a doulbe hung window takes with double panes.
Wallyo
Yes, it does, if demounting, removing and storing the storm sash in a different place - that's considerably more risk than raising and lowering a DH window.
not quite as good as Low E II w/argon but it's not bad.
Single pane windows with storms are more energy efficient than any Low E type window. It's all about the air space - no matter what you do, you can't equal the performance of 1" to 2" of air space with a "glass sandwich".
As a practical matter, however, even the most energy efficient window has an R value below 10. In other words, it's a hole in the wall. The energy difference between the best and the worst window is miniscule in most cases.
what I did worked well for my situation, but then my labor was free.
1. Removed all my old glazing with a torch. Removed the pane.
2. Scraped, sanded, fit, primed and painted sashes.
3. Re-set pane in a clear silicone bed, pointed and glazed.
4. (Kind of tricky) Had wide trim. Removed interior trim, cut back plaster and lath to center of outside stud in weight bay on either side to expose bay. Replaced ropes with chains and captured weights in pvc tubing. Insulated weight bay.
5. Furred out opening w/ sheetrock and lath. Replaced trim.
6. And the thing I have to do every year is a clear weather stripping removable caulking I put on the joints around the sashes that peels off in the spring. (cotton balls in the rope dadoes)
I have had no sign of air transfer since I've done this and my heat bills are considerably lower.
Took a whole day per window, but paid for itself in the first month.
Yea, I'm cheap.