ROT in the door jambs – solutions??
toolbear
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
ROT in the door jambs – solutions??
Have some new work orders for doors with rot/termite damage. Time to ask Breaktimes for their solutions.
Anyone have a productive repair method for this? In the past this damage has been at the bottom. Carports converted to garages. Interesting. 181 garages, all T1-11 siding and not 1″ of Z bar in the place. Lots of work.
Inclined to cut out the damaged jamb sections and splice in new, sand smooth, prime, paint, go away. Mortise hinges, etc., as needed. Old doors remain. The HOA will not support complete door changeouts.
What works for you?
The ToolBear
“Never met a man who couldn’t teach me something.” Anon.
Replies
minwax makes a 2 part filler. its like bondo for cars. very durable and easy to mold
Minwax also makes a companion product High Performance Wood Hardener that one can saturate the wood with prior to using the High Performance Wood Filler.
My personal preference are two epoxy products made by System Three; Rot Fix penetrating epoxy and Sculpt Wood wood filler.
I just came accross something like this. Unfortunately I'm not sure if I'm going to be much help but here's what happened: I was called on "emergency" by a realtor to give a bid on repairing the rotted door jambs.
Anyway they weren't serious because they couldn't come up with any real money and since then I don't return that realtor's phone calls for being disrespectful of my time. That's my one suggestion for what to do if they won't replace them properly.
If that doesn't work for you, how about getting new jamb stock and remaking them from the top?
-Allon
Anyway they weren't serious because they couldn't come up with any real money and since then I don't return that realtor's phone calls for being disrespectful of my time. That's my one suggestion for what to do if they won't replace them properly.
Happily, this HOA pays. We have had the maint. contract for years.
The trick is finding a productive protocol for this problem because these three doors are going to have company and a good solution can be used over and over. The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
Which ever method you use, cut and repair or patch in place, be sure to kill the fungus that is causing the rot.
I just read Dave Carnell's article on Chemotherapy for Rot.
http://www.angelfire.com/nc3/davecarnell/rot.html
He is a boat builder, but rot is rot, in wooden boats or buildings. He give some lower cost home brew formulas to use instead of the commercial products.
Dave
Also don't forget to use a contract, money up front & state in the contract there is limited warranty for this repair. ONly the work YOU did is covered. any additional problems due to preexisting conditions are not covered. Don't set yourself up for a problem, cover your bases.
Thanks, Dave - that's a highly useful article.
Which ever method you use, cut and repair or patch in place, be sure to kill the fungus that is causing the rot.
Like to, but that would be naughty. I inquired on the first rot job if I should flood the area with Termin 8. Nope. Anything we put down leaves the firm open for lawsuits.
He has BTDT. You have a sniffle? Must be the chemicals those people used when they did the jambs. More money! More money! More money!
Not licensed applicators, etc. and this is the Demokratic Peoples' Republic of Calif. Told to replace rotted jambs, that's the scope. I will dig out anything in the framing far as I can, etc.
Besides, there is more fungus where that came from - and termites. These garages are rotting out in so many ways and places. Gotta like the T1-11 with bottom edge on the deck. Suck up water? I'm sure it was all primed on six sides. Really.The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
Thanks for sharing that link about chemotherapy for rot - very interesting.(edit, next day) In fact, I had an opportunity to use the "chemotherapy for rot" (antifreeze) today on a "bar top" right in front of the "beer faucets". We treated and dried then coated with the two part epoxy bar top finish.
Edited 1/5/2007 10:08 pm ET by Fonzie
Thanks for the Chemo. of rot URL. Very interesting article. I have it downloaded. Never though of gylcol in this connection. Used to PEG as a bulking agent for wood stabilization.
Wonder if the wife will let me cook up some glycol/borate soup in the kitchen. .... No, I don't think so. Off to the gararge.The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=83381.9
This'll prevent it from happening again...
Framesaver -
Interesting idea. I have run across that in pole barns - with the buried PT post spliced to non PT above ground. Have to see if the Box Stores have something similar. The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
Maybe a kit to fix bottom frame rot? http://www.framesaver.com/builders/kit-order.asp
Hey Mark, Happy New Year...I could be totally out of it, but I couldn't find anything that said eggzackly what that frame saver kit is...I fixed rot today, be fixing it again tomorrow...great money, hateful work. Oh God said to Abraham, "Kill me a son"
Abe says, "Man, you must be puttin' me on"
God say, "No." Abe say, "What?"
God say, "You can do what you want Abe, but
The next time you see me comin' you better run"
Well Abe says, "Where do you want this killin' done?"
God says, "Out on Highway 61."
Happy new years to you and yours! It's a kit to replace the bottom of a door jamb. Various widths available, and it's rot proof.
how is Bella?
Bella is great, she's lazy on purpose now...unless it's 2:00 in the morning...barking is great exercise...if yer a dog<G>She says thanks for asking. Oh God said to Abraham, "Kill me a son"
Abe says, "Man, you must be puttin' me on"
God say, "No." Abe say, "What?"
God say, "You can do what you want Abe, but
The next time you see me comin' you better run"
Well Abe says, "Where do you want this killin' done?"
God says, "Out on Highway 61."
Glad to hear Bella is great. My pup mutt ate a few piles of rat poison, but seems fine. My dogs don't make too much noise at night, but the new rooster, he starts about 4:00 in the am. On the other hand, the new hens are laying right now, when I have never had eggs before.
Great Quote God Bless Gerry Garcia
Other great products which may be of benefit adn are structurally rated can be found at Abatron @ http://www.abatron.com/
There are many products not only for wood but also concrete, mold agents and mold releases etc. for duplication of mouldings trim etc.
I'll second the http://www.abatron.com and the Minwax approaches. I like to use the Minwax consolidant, which sets faster than the Abatron epoxy consolidant unless it's warm outside, but I like the Abatron epoxy better than the Minwax for filling and sanding.
After you whittle away and wire brush out the rot, paint on some Boracare to kill the mold and help prevent the rot from coming back. The Boracare won't interfere with the adhesion of the filler in the subequent steps. I mix up the Boracare in a catsup-type squeeze bottle and squirt it into the voids in the wood while brushing with the other hand.
Billy
The Boracare won't interfere with the adhesion of the filler in the subequent steps. I mix up the Boracare in a catsup-type squeeze bottle and squirt it into the voids in the wood while brushing with the other hand.
Alway wondered what happens if you just mix up a strong solution of boric acid crystals in water. We use the crystals on the boat in the tropics - screws up cockroaches. Never had any, but just in case - here's lunch for you.
The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
That would probably work pretty well. Boracare is boric acid crystals mixed with a carrier that penetrates into the wood easily, carying the borates with it.
I dumped boric acid crystals inside some basement wall cavities recently -- can't hurt and it might help.
Billy
I dumped boric acid crystals inside some basement wall cavities recently -- can't hurt and it might help.
Feeding the termites? Last meal. Sure can't hurt anything.The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
I've used the Minwax stuff with the hardener, it's...ok. Better is the West System for boats, a marina would probably have it, or I've had very good results with WoodEpox, like playdough you sculpt it and mould it. Works well.
Best solution is to replace the jamb with something like mahogany and build an overhang.
I've used the Minwax stuff with the hardener, it's...ok. Better is the West System for boats,
I have WEST epoxy system for my boat repairs. Love the pumps. Can get it from West Marine (no relation)
Have used ?? Arboton (sic) ??. One of those mix A with B and no in house method of metering the amounts. This is not good in expoy. The mix ratio is critical. I have some that is 30 yrs old and will kick any day now. Very stiff, but not kicked yet. The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
This repair job keeps my kids in house and home. I "salvage" every used door jamb and brick mold I find, whether on the street or junk pile. The number one easiest way to do this job is to remove the existing brick mold and if needed interior casing. Cut a level piece off of the rotten jamb, install a new piece of jamb, do the same with the brick mold or use new brick mold. I usually put a new piece of weatherstrip in as well. If it needs to look 100%, I mix up water putty and sand it level, then paint. Garages and storage rooms usually get caulked and painted. ON the interior casing, you can usually just pry it up and hold it out of the way when you cut the casing. New jamb is expensive but as many as you have you will need it. You can get about four or so out of each piece.
Edited 1/4/2007 8:41 pm ET by handymanvan
The number one easiest way to do this job is to remove the existing brick mold and if needed interior casing.
Here is where the fun begins. The interior trim is not a problem - cut the caulk and prize it off carefully. The exteriors are stucco and the profile of the stucco mold used in the '60s differs from what they sell today - which is (why are we surprised) smaller. Last door replacement I had to lay in 3/16 stock to cover the gap.
I better start gluing up stucco mold and extender.
What do you use for the cuts? Tempted to try my Li-On saw.
Use a jig to make sure they stay square?
I am thinking that a biscuit in the end would help keep things in plane. The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
I have used all sorts of thicknesses of wood for the spacers when needed, I do not use a jig, I used to but now I am fast with these things. I use my small roofing square to mark level (even anyway) and I use my cordless Milwaukee framing (6 1/4 I think??) saw to make the cut all the way through. Occasionally I partially use a little circular saw blade that chucks into a drill. If the molding is not standard old brick molding, you can take all of it off, rip 3/8 BC plywood to width and go with standard molding on top of that, assuming I understand your problem. If all they care about is getting rid of the rot, I bet that anything you can come up with that can be painted will make them happy.
I have used all sorts of thicknesses of wood for the spacers when needed, I do not use a jig, I used to but now I am fast with these things.
I think I will jig up for this. Any tips on this? I visualize something like a shooting board that screws into the jamb. Our work is so varied that I cannot assume a steady stream of these rot projects.
I use my small roofing square to mark level (even anyway) and I use my cordless Milwaukee framing (6 1/4 I think??) saw to make the cut all the way through.
The Makita Li-On saw will get the work. Nicely done tool.
Occasionally I partially use a little circular saw blade that chucks into a drill.
Tell me more about this. I could use a tiny circ saw. Perhaps a Dremel or Rotozip blade?
If the molding is not standard old brick molding, you can take all of it off, rip 3/8 BC plywood to width and go with standard molding on top of that, assuming I understand your problem. If all they care about is getting rid of the rot, I bet that anything you can come up with that can be painted will make them happy.
Right - long as it looks smooth and nice under the primer and paint - and stays that way. The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
I got the little saw one day at an ACE I think. It is about two inches or better with a stud that chucks in a drill. It cuts like crazy and when you need it, it is the best little thing, about five bucks. Yes, I made a shoot board that I used all the time with my cordless saw and it is what I used as a jig untill I found that I really did not need it. I would put it up and nail it with two 16gauge nails, make my cut and pull it off. You can just mark the line with the square and be much faster and just as good though.