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ROTO-ZIP

| Posted in Construction Techniques on March 1, 2005 02:38am

Ok, now.  Be nice, if you think this handy dandy tool is not so great.

See, I watched this great video on TV, just in time for Christmas……………..

Long story short, I bought the latest ROTO-ZIP multi-purpose tool for John.  (What *do* you give a guy with tons of old construction jobsite tools and limited space that has a jar *full* of honeydo projects?)

Well, he started to (finally) work with it a couple of weeks ago, and tried it out on some plywood. 

Problem #1:  The chuck won’t hold the bit.  When pressure is applied, it comes loose.

Problem #2:  So, he called the company – under warranty, and all – only to be told to “bang it on the work bench” for a tight fit.  (Riiiiight)  He persisted with the nice girl on the other end of the line, and they are now supposed to be sending a new chuck.  This, after first receiving a little box with a strange looking bit of some kind inside – no part number, no explanation.  Geez.

So, does anyone have experience with this problem, and do you have another solution – other than banging it on the work bench, of course.  😉  Or, if nothing ultimately works, should be just “chuck it”, and return it to Home Depot? 

Thanks again,

Kris

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Replies

  1. FastEddie1 | Mar 01, 2005 02:44am | #1

    Almost all of the bits are 1/8" dia, but I have seen one or two that are like 3/32" or something ... undersize on purpose.  They take a special collet or adaptor or something.  But I'm gonna bet you're using a standard bit in a standard chuck, so just ignore me.

     

    I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

  2. Hooker | Mar 01, 2005 03:04am | #2

    The only thing I could suggest is a different size collet.  My Roto has an 1/8 and 1/4 collet.  I agree with ed that there may have been a bad sized batch or something.  BTW, the collet is the metal object that goes inside the screw down to hold the bit.  It tightens by tension as you tighten the nut around the bit.

    Maybe that's some redundant info, best I got!!

    Good Luck.  I have always been happy with the 2 Rotos I've had.

    ADH Carpentry & Woodwork

    Quality, Craftsmanship, Detail

  3. DanH | Mar 01, 2005 04:05am | #3

    I've never had trouble with the collet holding the bit. Just make sure the right size insert is in there, and use the wrench and shaft lock so that you get the nut good and tight.

    1. FastEddie1 | Mar 01, 2005 04:22am | #4

      Ah-Ha!  I knew I was right!  (Don't mean to sound conceited though.) 

      I use a bit by Foredom, one of their Typhoon burrs, for fast removal of wood.  With a little care, it works great for coping trim.  They are either blue or red (depending on grit) and look extremely agressive.  Looks like you stuck pins into a bit and cut them off about 1/8" long.  Looks like it would really tear up you knuckles if it slipped (I have not yet).

      Anyway, they are available with shanks of 3/32, 1/8, or 1/4".  Lowes caries them where they sell Dremel and Rotozip bits.

       I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

  4. User avater
    JeffBuck | Mar 01, 2005 04:30am | #5

    I've had mine for ... 10 years?

    maybe longer.

    never had a bit problem.

     

    make sure he's got the collet in under the nut ...

    other than that ...

    I'd say take it back and get a new one.

     

    they're great little tools for their intended porpose.

    btw ... other than 1/4 ply and short cuts ... aside from what their commercials say ...

    I don't think my rotozip to be the tool for that job.

    Most I'd cut thru is the back of a cabinet.

     

    also .. once the loose bit problem is fixed ... remember to make sure the right bit is in ther for the right job ... I learned ya can start a little fire by trying to cut thru wood with the drywall bit!

    wondered why it was fighting me so much .. not wondering enough to check the bit ... just kept pushing ... after a minor flare up ... I put a wood cutting bit it ...

    went right thru the old lath.

    Jeff

      Buck Construction 

       Artistry in Carpentry

            Pgh, PA

    1. brownbagg | Mar 01, 2005 05:03am | #6

      I love mine, its great on drywall

  5. User avater
    IMERC | Mar 01, 2005 05:20am | #7

    if the the bit is heat glazed and the right size to match the collet it is so slick and hard that two gorrillas can't hold it place....

    polish the bit shank with hyper fine AO or SC paper and have at it... use 1500 grit or better (finer) and clean the collett with tooth paste and a Q tip... use no libricants or petrolem products any place on the assembly...

    you can go back to ignoring Ed now...

    thankyou...

    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

    WOW!!!   What a Ride!

  6. briank | Mar 01, 2005 06:41am | #8

    For everyone with older Rotozips, I think that Bosch has changed from the collet system to chucks with 3 jaws---so the size of the bit shouldn't matter.  Getting the jaws tight is another matter.  Had several Rotozips and never had a problem--and Bosch is usually very good with their customer service.

  7. andybuildz | Mar 01, 2005 09:56am | #9

    for the little bit of money it costs and the headaches its gotten me out of.I love that damn tool no matter what.I also hear its so good dentists are starting to use it.
    Be WELL!!!
    ####

    The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!

    When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..

      I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides,

    I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace.

    I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you

    and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us.

     

     


     

     

  8. 4Lorn1 | Mar 01, 2005 10:13am | #10

    Sounds like a common problem with collet type chuck systems. More rarely it can effect jawed chucks.

    The collet sits in a tube. Over this goes the nut and the bit goes through the nut and into the collet. Look closely at each piece looking for burrs, crud or damage.

    Given the size of this unit a strong light and hand lens would be a good idea. A tiny burr can make the collet slip. Also don't forget the outside of the collet where the tube touches it wedging it closed. Clean away any crud. Any burrs can be touched up with fine file or stone. Don't get carried away and remove too much metal.

    Also check for oil or grease in the collet and on the bit. A little alcohol can be used to remove any errant lubricant.

  9. Mooney | Mar 01, 2005 02:30pm | #11

    How about some feed back ?

  10. User avater
    Luka | Mar 02, 2005 01:19am | #12

    I am betting that "strange looking bit of some kind inside - no part number, no explanation".... Is a new collet.

    Ok, you see the part that you tighten down, to tighten the bit in there ?

    Turn that all the way off. Loosen, and just keep turning.

    When it comes off, kind of like a little nut shaped cap, you'll find the collet underneath it.

    Pull out the old collet. Put the new one in. Put the "nut shaped cap" back on...

    Now put your real bit in there and tighten it.

    The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow

    It is easy to be friends with someone you always agree with.

    1. alaskans | Mar 02, 2005 02:05am | #13

      Hey, guys!

      Thanks for all the brain work  about this..........

      (1)  I do feel better about giving him this handy dandy little item, since everyone seems to like it.  And, I think he will, too, when this is resolved.

      (2)  Since things were a bit hectic around holiday time, and he saw the *size* of the "how-to" manual, he's been messing around with all the various parts off & on since then.  Intrigued enough to actually buy some extra bits when he was in the mega hardware stores.  Anyway, when he finally got around to making a lovely birch (3/4") plywood desktop for my studio, that's when he decided to actually fire it up.  Well, that's also when the trouble started with the bit not staying tight in the chuck.  Etc., etc., etc. ( In the slick video, they showed a gal using it, and slicing through plywood like butter - smooth and clean, as opposed to the sabre saw that chews up the edge so badly.  I was hooked, of course. )    John figures that maybe 3/4" birch is just too hard & thick to work with it.  I hope not - 'love that birch!  We use it a lot.  All the cabinetry in the house is birch.  We live in the birchwoods.  We burn it in the fireplace. 

      (3)  Good suggestions, too, about this "colett" thing........ He seemed to know what that's about, and after the last message, he'll probably investigate it.  Meanwhile, the *actual* new chuck is on the way....................

      By the way, I'm writing this, because he's had meetings and we did want everyone to know we're taking all your experience and advice to heart, and will throw it all into the mix!  He will type a note soon............'such a painful hunt n' peck process for him, you understand.................  ;-)

      Soon,

      Kris 

      1. alaskans | Mar 02, 2005 04:20am | #14

        I was confused with the good advice on the collet problem . A collet and nut was in the package but it is used in the router attachment.The unit I have uses a three jaw Chuck and will not hold the standard plywood cutting bit tight on 3/4" plywood--- it will not slip 0n 1/4"cedar but I was assured it would cut 3/4 by the customer service lady The jaws do not hold and spin on the bit. It certainly shoots a hole in the bally hoo this is a key and wrench less chuck. I suspect it is a dandy on sheet rock and cardboard box's but I really don't do much of either.  The odd piece Kris mentioned customer service sent to make the chuck hold is a drive bit used to drive the abrasive cutoff attachment --Thanks to all --It is comforting to know Good advice is so readly had. I will wait to see what the next postage from Rotozip by Bosch brings    John

        1. FastEddie1 | Mar 02, 2005 04:25am | #15

           

          I don't use mine to trim 3/4" material.  It woirks great on sheetrock and thinner material, but I have used it to touchup the edges of thicker stuff.  And mine has a shaft lock and wrench to tighten the bit holder thingie.

           I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

        2. User avater
          Sphere | Mar 02, 2005 07:08pm | #16

          Buddy, you need a true router or laminate trimmer for 3/4 stock..the 'zip don't and won't cut it...for long.If you need the thin kerf of the zip bits, get a collet adapter for an1/8 bit to use in a decent trimmer..cuz the very next thing yer will replace in the roto will be the fan, the thinner bits create a huge amount of vibration, which destroys the fan...I have 3 that have been destroyed between myself and a helper, from doing exactly what you are doing.They are great for thin stuff..they hate hard stuff over 1/4" thick. NO matter what info-mecials say... 

          Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

          Restoring, Remodeling, Reclaiming The Quality..

  11. TJK1141 | Mar 02, 2005 08:27pm | #17

    IMO, roto-zip tools are one of God's cruelest jokes. They create an awful mess and some are dangerous as hell to operate. The bits either break or burn up -- I had one actually set fire to some paper behind a plywood panel.

    1. User avater
      PaulBinCT | Mar 03, 2005 12:21am | #18

      Gee, I have two of them, one of which is one of the very earliest (cordless) models.  My take is that the truth is somewhere between your experience and the informercials.  Some of the applications they show are just silly, but for the right job with the right bits I think they're terrific.  I guess it's a YMMV (your mileage may vary) thing...

    2. blue_eyed_devil | Mar 03, 2005 02:41am | #19

      TJk, I've never been able to master them either. I'm always pushing it too fast. The base is floppy. The bits break. I think it's a poor sister to a router and I can't imagine it doing anythint to 3/4" birch except smoking it.

      blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!

      Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!

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