The kitchen install we just completed had me complaining about the lack of studs in the right places for attaching cabs and stuff, and I thought that in the end, we would have been better off just to cut out all the rock necessary and place blocking everywhere.
Then I thought about the task of doing the rock rip right, and how easy it would go with a roto zip. Snap some lines, zip out the gypboard, and start cutting blocks.
Do you have one, and is it the right tool for cutting out the 4 x 14.5 pieces of rock in each stud bay, when you want to stick in a couple lines of blocking?
If so, what else can I put a roto zip to use doing?
Finally, what make and model makes sense?
Replies
IMO a roto zip for this is the wrong tool. We do this often and use a recip saw. Set the shoe out so you are only an inch or so deep , angle it a little and have at it.
The Roto zip is ok for box cuts and such but is really messy. Lots of dust in the air ( a big deal if you are in an occupied home) and goes through a bunch of bits. Also as you are sliding along the rock when you hit a stud that you didn't expect you will often snap off that bit and have to change it to get going again. Also if you hit a screw it will kill the bit.
A recip is a one blade deal and simply needs a little operator care. Just my opinion. We have tried both. DanT
I second that.For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
Why not just use a french cleat?
"It is what it is."
That's Freedom Cleat in NY.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
You gonna play that thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0
Please tell us how you would know about freedom cleat>G<
YES!! Sorry.
Like freedom fries or freedom toast.
"It is what it is."
A Roto-zip would work, but would be very dusty as mentioned. I would not be inclined to use a saws-all in a kitchen area with all the wiring & pipes. What I have found which works well is a multi-master. Very little dust, good depth control, accurate & fast.
As others have mentioned, the rotozip is really just for cutting out small areas - like electrical boxes. When I bought mine, I somehow thought it would be less messy than a recip saw - not true. Unfortunately, I've pretty much only used it a couple of times. I was also really disappointed with how quickly the bits burned out.
DanT is right.
Recip saw, 6" tapered blade, set the shoe out, and angle the saw so the blade penetrates just a little inside the gyp board. That way, even where wires are stapled to the stud, your blade won't extend far enough in to snag them.
Fein MultiMaster will make finer, cleaner cuts with negligible dust, but it will be much slower than a Sawzall.
I bought a 9.6 volt 3-1/2" Makita saw just for this purpose. Set depth at 9/16, snap lines and go. You can hold a vacuum hose next to the blade and eliminate a majority of the dustFrank
I just saw the answer to your problem on the show "Under Construction" on the DIY network. They marked the walls about 4" from the top of the cabinets and then cut out a 3-4" piece of drywall the length of the cabinets. They replaced the drywall with 1/2 plywood and then had a suitable place to screw in every cabiet.
Don't see how that answers his problem although a reasonable idea. He was asking how to cut the drywall, that problem is still there. I am not sure I would want my heavily loaded cabinets hung off 1/2" ply "blocking". Not sure the 1/2" of thread would be enough.
Something I would consider would be taking a 2x4 or 6 and using my slider and making dados for the studs 1" deep rather than conventional blocking.
For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
How about a 2 x 4 block screwed to back of plywood cut to fit between the studs with a little PL on the ends. Then you have 2" of wood. For cutting rock... screw 2 x 4 to wall and use for guide and depth guage for sawsall. MM might work too if cranked up to high.
Edited 8/4/2008 8:46 am ET by wood4rd
I missed that part too. I cut my DW with a knife then gently knock it out with a hammer. As far as 1/2" not being enough, three of my rental kitchen were hung that way. We screw into plywood at the top then run the bottom into the studs.
Since we have the plywood up, its easy to find the studs for the bottom. We havent had any problems with this method and I believe I actually firsst saw it on This Old House.
You're not gonna tell me "The Master Tom Silva" would do anything wrong are you?
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
I am sure if your used enough screws it would hold but I probably would put at least some 1x or 3/4 ply min on the back of the 1/2 ply.
BobFor those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
Thats a good suggestion, but I felt that what I did was enough. We anchor the snot out of the plywood.
Dont forget that most of the load on the screw is shear and with the addition of the lower screws into the studs I still think it would be okay.
The other thing to consider is that the cabinets are lashed together so I would think (to a certain extent) the load is spread across more than the four fastners used per box.
The other thing with my method is that even though its only 1/2" ply theres no chance of screwing through the edge of a stud providing a false sense of security.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
sawzall is the ticket...
cut off a worn out blade so that 1/2-5/8" of it protrudes past the shoe on the forward stroke...
hold the saw perpendicular to the wall while cutting....
anything inside the bays is now safe from surprises...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
If you don't have a Roto-zip, I would think one of those drywall "stab" saws would work--no one seems to use those any more though. (The whole saw is a narrow triangle with a sharp point and you just plunge it into the drywall. But it is arm-powered!) A "jigsaw" (saber saw) will also work, but is more dusty.
You got right Danno, so book these guys. The drywall keyhole saw is the cheapest, no dust and in the right hands the fastest!
There is a vaccum attachment for the RotoZip that will suck up most of the dust. A very useful tool to have around, sorta like a Dremel on steroids.
That said, that Makita 3 1/2" circ saw would probably be an easier tool for this particular task, question is: what else am I going to use it for after this job?
I purchased a R-zip cuz I had to cut circular holes in a plaster ceiling for can lights. They have a hole cutter attachment that worked well with a clean round cut. Any type of recip saw would have destroyed the plaster, else I would have used the already owned jigsaw or sawsall, but .....
Ya pays your money and takes yer choice.
Good luck.
I've got one. Used it on drywall to cut out a 1 foot square to get to a heating pipe. Not too bad on the dust. I've also used it to cut out a section of plywood sheathing that was in a tough spot...few inches above stair landing and didn't want to cut through what was underneath..would have been very dfficult with any other tool. Have also used it to do cut-outs in plywood and hardboard edge trimming. I got one of the first ones and paid more than you can get one for today. But like one of the other posters suggested why not a French cleat...just used one...don't need a cast of thousands to hold the cabinets while you attach 'em to the wall? Should be quicker all around.
Edited 8/4/2008 2:26 pm ET by JIMMIEM
Use a drywall stab saw to start the cut and then cut with a heavy wallboard saw we called a coreboard saw. Looks similar to the short panel saws. Any drywall specialty supplier has them. They cut faster than a rotozip and as fast or faster than a recipocating saw. Replace drywall with a rip of plywood instead of blocking.
mike
When we do a kitchen (or bath) we usually take it right down to studs. If thats not your case, what i've been doing lately is cutting back the drywall behind the cabinets and installing 1/2" plywood. That way it doesnt matter where the studs are. You always have plenty to screw to.
I think it makes th install a little faster too.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
Edited 8/4/2008 2:42 pm ET by MSA1