I’m doing a complete basement remodel and have now gotten to the drywall installation phase. A friend told me to get a rotozip to cut around cans and electrical boxes to save loads of time and headache…
Is it worth the money or should I stick with a drywall saw?
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Replies
A Rotozip is faster, noisier, and makes more dust. If you try using one, practice a little - lol.
A couple of drywall crews around here use cheap garage sale router. They remove the base, chuck up a 'Zip' bit and use them free-hand.
I noted one was an cheap early model sears Craftsman they got for something like $5 used. A straight black plastic exterior with no metal parts visible or refining graces. They control the depth by chucking up on the bits and eyeballing it. All it has to do is spin. The designed heavier use and power power to spare for this job, considerably heftier than a Rotozip, has kept even this cheap tool up and running for a long time.
Your friend is right. Rotozip or the like is the only way to go if you want to get the cutouts done quickly AND easily. Doesn't have to be Rotozip brand. Even a Dremel tool will work but not as well. Be sure you use a guide tip drywall bit.
Drywall saws will work of course, but that would be like going back to the old days and framing an entire house with a handsaw and hammer. Sure, it can be done but that was the only option back then.
If money is an issue, get one from Harbor Freight. It'll probably last until you get your basement done. A cheap, used router can be used, but you might get aggravated with it's weight and size as compared to a specific drywall router.
Also, in a pinch the other attachments are worthwhile. I've used the cutoff disks a couple of times to cut off anchor bolts, etc.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
But when you use a RotoZip for outlets, make sure the wires are pushed well back into the box before hanging the rock. Othewise you can chew up the wires pretty bad.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
I think the rotozips are definitely a worthwhile tool. I wouldn't want to hang drywall without one.
But they're not everything the TV infomercials make 'em out to be.
Well worth the money. Get the whole kit that comes in the bag. I've used all the attachments. The cut off wheel was great when I had to cut a dozen wire shelves.
I loved having the Zip when I needed to cut tile in on a wall to install a recepticle.
Bits can be had on Ebay and for that matter so can the RotoZip.
Theres no other way to go when you have lots of work to do.
I've even used it to back cut miters for crown mmolding...cut close to the line then use a new knife blade the remainder.
Practice first on some scraps
The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides, I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace. I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us.
Will a Rotozip work on plaster walls?
About as well as anything, which is to say not very well. You'd probably want to use the ceramic bits rather than regular drywall bits. And it would probably be a good idea (if doing more than one or two cuts) to make up a template that you tack to the wall, to allow you to cut out a neat box opening or whatever. Otherwise the tool would be hard to control.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
I've used my rotozip on my rocklath walls - 1/2" of plaster on sheetrock. It works fine with the regular bits. I can't speak to plaster on wood lath and I wouldn't try anything other than a sawzall on metal lath.
yep as long as you dont hit the wire lath. That will ruin your bits.Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
It sort of works with plaster:
Make two passes, the 1st with a carbide bit to cut the plaster, then go back with a wood bit for the lath. Its a PITA, but it does provide clean holes without tearing up the plaster or lath.
>I've even used it to back cut miters for crown mmolding...
>cut close to the line then use a new knife blade the remainder.I use cylindrical burs for that in my Rotozip and Dremel. Works extremely well. Easy to control, down to a hairswidth. No need for a knife. For me, faster and easier than coping.
zactlyThe secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides, I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace. I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us.
I love my rotozip, best tool ever bought. But you will need to practice on drywall. That sucker will get away from you. Only problem with it, the button that lock the chuck broke the first day, but a 16 penny nail works great. I would buy another without even thinking about it.. 2+3=7
I'm not sure I inderstand the question.
I think the rotozip is a good tool to use when you're hanging drywall. But not for much else.
If you watch the infomercials, they make it sound like you can do amazing things with it. Throw away your cordless drill, reciprocating saw, etc. I don't buy that at all.
Why not sub it out? What has that got to do with a rotozip? That's a whole different topic.
I wouldn't recommend throwing out your drill, recip saw, etc, but the cutoff feature is handy in many cases, and you might even find yourself using it with a saw blade to get into a tight spot.Certainly the infomercial oversells it. There's no way to do anything resembling precision work with the RotoZip.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
I bought one and like everybody else has said works great on drywall...real fast.
Had to cut a piece out of damaged plywood house sheathing. Roto zip did it..otherwise a wood chisel would have been the other option...really awkward spot to get at. Have also used it to cut circles in 3/4" plywood...went fast.
I'd buy one again.
I have one. They're real nice, but a bit hard to control - maybe I just haven't practiced enough. I'd get the bag with all the attachments, and definitely shop around. For example, HD has a much better deal than Ace.
Also check out their website and make sure the model you get takes all the attachments you want to use.
Edited 1/4/2006 11:57 am ET by BobS
As with a regular router, it's important to move in the right direction, so that the motion of the bit presses it against the "fence" (the edge of the box) vs drawing it away. I forget whether this is CW or CCW around the box for the RotoZip -- I always have to study the rotation to figure it out.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
counter clock wise on the outside of a box, clockwise on the inside of door or window frames.
I would not use my Dremel as suggested. I ruined my last Dremel tool that way. I guess that they can't handle the dust. The front bearing seized up after only a dozen or so holes. I know that they sell the attachment for this purpose, but the tool itself is not really sturdy enough for this. The tool was practically new when I tried it for drywall.
I now have a Dewalt roto-tool. It is the tool only without any special attachments, and it's perfect for this specific task. Bought it for $35 clearance / open box at HD, and it's been worth every penny.
The exact same thing happened to me. I had used my first dremel w/someone holding a vac by the bit and it worked well. I got ripped off and bought a new dremel. he next drywall job I got through three of the 90 cans that had to be cut and froze the bearing.
I have a Rotozip and feel about the same as everyone else. Its a good tool for drywall and the cutoff wheel is really useful.
I think it is worth the money.
Recent thread on this topic - check archives.
66749.5
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I've had my roto zip for a few years and always find new uses for it. I found it really usefull when installing any thing requiring a section of basebord to be removed.( for example : installing a wider casing on doors,installing a stand alone cabinet,etc. ) Remove the base of the tool, mark out where the casing will set, mark the baseboard , and cut. Takes a little practice to freehand it perfectly straight. Make sure you don't run the blade into the carpet........especially burber.
If you go that route make sure you push the wires back deep in the box. You don't want to nick the wire short and make it tough to wire up.
I didn't read all the way through the posts, so I may be repeating someone's statements here.
If you don't already own a laminate trimmer (aka "trim router"), buy one of those, buy the 1/4" to 1/8" adapter Roto-zip sells, and use it. When you're done, you'll have a marvelously useful little one-hand router for other projects.
If you do already own a laminate trimmer, pick up from step 2 above and save the money.
The rotozip method of cutting out drywall for fixture boxes is SO much faster than other methods that it's worth it if you can do it without spending a lot of money.
If you're trying to get by on a budget, lots and lots of people, including me, have done remodels using other methods of cutting in the fixture boxes.
They can had for nothing on Ebay. Beware of the initial models #'d SC101 or so, they had problems with the shaft lock going to heck.I picked up one of the newer models, RZ1 or RZ5 on Ebay new for $23 shipped. Great deal as they retail for about $59 reg.There's so many on Ebay, including old ones, that you could probably pick one up for under $20 or $30 easy.Although I second the advice above about picking up a trim router and using it. PC and Bosch trim routers can be had on ebay for $50-70 quite often.JT
Been away in Eastern KY doing some building on a church project. Twas kind of interesting -- though several folks has Rotozips, I was the only one who really knew how to use one for cutting out boxes. One pro carp had me do it for him since he didn't quite get the concept.Also, there was one unit there that had the shaft lock problem (lock pin "bushing" was gone, allowing pin to roll out of shaft notch), though it clearly had some miles on it.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
lock pin "bushing" was gone, allowing pin to roll out of shaft notch)mine broke the first week. 16 penny nail works great. 2+3=7
FYI, if you have one of the original models, the SC1-01 or something like that, if you call Rotozip, they'll give you special pricing on one of 3 different kits.For instance, they'll sell you the top-end RZ20 kit for $80 and no shipping. Not too bad if you were thinking of upgrading anyways.JT
So, to all you responders, do you follow the inside of the box or the outside? Seems like each method would have its problems
I start by cutting a finger sized hole in the box to make sure i'm in the right spot and then cut around the outside of the box. Cutting around the inside of the box only wouldn't allow the drywall to go against the framing. The small tabs on the side of electrical boxes space the box a half inch out to sit flush with the face of the drywall.
The outside. Start on the inside, find the edge, skip over it to the outside, then go CCW around the box.This lets the box pop through the rock like it oughtta.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
Without too much clearance? What diameter is the cutter 1/8"?
Yep, the standard drywall bit is 1/8 inch. The unit will also take 1/4" bits with a collet change (or on later models with a Jacobs-style chuck).
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
I have one but resort to the drywall saw most of the time to avoid the dust. It does take a bit of getting used to since it likes to wander all over the place.