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Anyone own any of these cutout tools. I remember using one about a year ago- the Porter Cable one. Blades kepts on burning on wood or bits would break on durock boards. The chuck that held the bits was flimsy also.
Anyone own the Dewalt or Bosch version of this tool. Looking for some feedback or a cutout tool that works.
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I own a Rotozip, and use it from time to time. It is a nice tool, but is neither as handy nor hearty as the company suggests in the promotional videotape you sometimes see playing at the home improvement centers.
It definitely burns the wood, and I've had lots of the bits snap off. They do not offer diamond grinding bits, which would be ideal for some materials, and the carbide grinding bits (for plaster, tile, etc.) are both expensive and not very durable. Worse, the bits are too short for some operations. For example, doing a cut-in for an electric outlet in a true lath-and-plaster wall requires (in my last home) about 1-1/2" just to get through the plaster. THEN, having cut that and knocked the waste out, you'd need a wood-cutting bit another 1/2" for the lath. In theory nothing would beat the rotary saw, but in practice they will not provide such a long bit (perhaps for safety reasons).
Basically, I think they're glorified routers, with distinct limitations. I'm glad I have mine, because it does help in certain cases, but it is not any kind of Wonder Tool.
-- Roger
*I have the roto-zip.....do a search....we've discussed this before. It's a great little tool if not over worked. The drywall bits burn in wood....go figure! The wood bits don't. I even use the goofy angle head wheel attachment for quick cut-off when it's around. The circle cutter works well with it....and the guide tip bits can't be beat for cutting out can lights. Jeff
*Jeff,Actually, I don't think you and I are disagreeing much here. I have found that the wood bits -- not the drywall bits -- cause burning.Frankly, in drywall I think they're terrific (especially, as you said, in light fixture cutouts). But it seems like most of what I find myself cutting into is lath and plaster, and there the value index drops.-- Roger
*I have the roto-zip with the detachable handle. I was using it the other day with the right angle sander attachment to sand a car fender. The handle locks on with a flakey little hinged plastic clip. While I was using it, the vibration unlatched the clip and the tool dropped off the handle, leaving me holding the handle, while the running tool fell on my foot. So I figured that I must not have had the handle clip down all the way. So I put the handle back on and started using it again. After about five minutes the tool dropped off again and fell to the ground. I'm glad I wasn't using the cut-off wheel. I looked at another one at the store and it didn't seem that the handle clip had anymore of a positive lock down than the one I have. I threw the handle away. Roto-zip is a piece of crap.
*My Porter Cable has always seemed like a piece of crap, too. I always wished I'd got the rotozip. We need to hear about the other brands.
*I've heard that complaint about the PC cutout tool before. I don't hold that much better of an opinion of Rotozip. I have the model with detachable handle and a straigt body. Not tapered like the Rebel or Revolution. I have to say that for me it's neither fish nor foul. It's easily as loud as a router. It throws drywall dust for a country mile and it's nowhere near as controllable as they show on the tube. The people in those infomercials had to be well trained in handling those boogers. I have no idea how they keep pulling the wool over the publics eyes about using these things for hobby/crafts! You cannot hold steady for detailed line cutting. Some of the intricate detail work crafters and carvers do, take hours of cutting and sanding. This creature ain't it. I do believe the marketing division of Roto deserves a huge bonus for their bangup promotional push. They've really sold these things to the public. Like some of the other posters have said, it's not a miracle tool. It's best use is drywall cutouts and some light window/door cutouts. Otherwise, it's hugely overpowered(and noisy)for fine work and it's cheesy base/depth adjuster is no good for counter top work. Like I says, for me neither fish nor foul. I've never been a fan of Yellow Power Tools but Dewalts new cutout tool seems to be aimed at what's it's best for; drywall/window cutouts. No gimmicky attatchments or angle cutters. One option I've gone to is the Black and Decker RTX rotary tool for finer detail cutting/grinding. This is the new model they came out with last year. It's about twice as powerful as a Dremel tool and is no bigger. Yet it's much more controllable than a Rotozip. It is variable speed and much more comfortable to grasp than a Dremel. At least to me it is. It's also appreciably quieter than a Rotozip. It takes all standard Dremel accesories. No, it's no angle grinder or honking cutout monster. But it does take any of the 1/8" drywall cutout bits and it handles that chore admirably. It's also only $49.99 now at Walmart with 55 accesories and a carry case. On a side note, if Rotozip would offer some sort of drill press/router attachment and a flexable shaft attachment with a 1/16" to 1/4" chuck for their tools, the demand from the hobby crowd would keep them behind in production.
*For me, my Rotozip has been a big disappointment, with the exception of drywall. It is excellent for that. And that counts.But I tried to use it on T-111 and the thinner version of that, and to cut out windows with OSB.Yah, right. I almost had to buy stock in a bit company to cut out a couple skylights. And even when it finally did, it wanted to wander, cutting through headers and rafters. So it's drywall. That's it.
*I've got the DeWalt cut out tool. got it for 59 bucks at home cheapo. I've used it for drywall cutouts but don't seem to have much luck being able to tell when I've hit the electrical box. the thing zips right through those damn plastic boxes. first job I used it on I had to patch a few things. came in real handy today though. cutout a formica over greenboard backsplash to put in a new receptacle. drew my line and it followed pretty good. there's hope for me yet.
*I've had one(rotozip brand) for about 2 years, and I think I've used it often enough to have a pretty good feel for what it'll do, and what it won't. PROS:Drywall cutouts=excellent.Wood=have xtra bits on hand, they burn up fast if yer trying to go fast. I think the problem with burning wood/bits is due to the speed. Variable speed model may fix this.Small size and plunge ability are greatCONS:It is absolutely the hardest tool in the world to freehand a straight line with, if you use a guide or take your time it'll work fine. Keep in mind, it's a light duty tool aimed at DIY'ers. It's NOT a substitute chop saw, router, angle grinder or autobody DA sander.IMHO, it serves it's purpose. Most infomercials are a load of horseshit anyway, they hope that if they drone on for an hour or so and show us ridiculous examples and testimony, we'll believe what we wouldn't in 30 seconds.Hell, we've ALL had Argon lasers shot at our fenders, right?Just my opinions,MikePS: If yer cutting up plastic gang boxes, yer either using non-guidepoint bits, or it's set too deep.PPS: Another CON: It IS waaaaay too loud, my dog goes into song as soon as I turn it on. AAAWWOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
*Steve,Are you using the pilot bit for your switch box cutouts? A regular bit with cutting flutes all the way to the end will cut all the way to the end, ya sure.Or are you using a pilot bit and a heavy hand, and just melting your way through the side of the box?I'm guessing that you're keeping busy, based on the posting you're doing. Way to go, man.Good luck,Cliff
*Yeah I've got the piloted bits, actually rotozip bits because the dewalt ones suck. I guess I'm just a little to heavy handed. a little more experience will help too. I've been keeping real busy lately. I've got to fill the last two weeks of november and then the last half of december to have my year full. then it's on to worrying about jan. and feb. the last two clients were extremely pleased with my work and have said they would be letting their friends know. also have them as good references. things are starting to happen now. makes me a little more confident as well.
*Good to hear things are looking up, Steve-O.I've got the 2nd generation RotoZip (the one with the non-removeable handle) and as has been said it's da bomb in drywall, as long as you aren't trying to make an unguided straight cut. I cut out a chunk of drywall for a cat door yesterday and it's a good thing the cat door had a wide flange. The circle cutter is really good, and I found that in OSB, going faster it actually cut better and bogged less than going slow. It was quieter, too, though still in major earplug territory. I've also put in a 1/8" Dremel roundover bit, which worked quite slick. It's fun, but not a really heavy-duty tool; you'd need a real router (like a PC 690) for cutting out window and door opening in sheathing.did
*Hey Didd, long time no talk to. how ya been? how's Dane doing? little Joey's been growing like a weed. he's crawling around everywhere and pulling himself up every chance he can. got his bottom two teeth and four on top.
*Dane figured out crawling about a week and a half ago, and now is cruising all over our downstairs. He loves chasing the cats around and has gotten a couple of swats as a result, but nothing more damaging than hurt feelings. He's got the front bottom two teeth but nothing else. I've been putting pictures on Cook's Talk; It's more fun showing baby pics to women than a bunch of crusty guys... cam14 "I got a scanner!" 11/5/01 11:57am cam14 "Attack of the absurdly cute kid!" 11/2/01 11:14pmdid
*Hey Guys,I was checking the RotoZips out couple weeks ago...my old, inherited die grinder died and we're in the middle of grinding out rust off iron railings... a LOT of railings!Actually, I went shopping for a die grinder, only cause I was told that's what my tool was called and never questioned it. After looking though, I'm now not really certain what a "die grinder" really is. Closest thing HD & Lowes had was the Roto, a Dremel, and the Dewalt cutout tools...everyone looked at me funny when I said "no, that's not what I want...mine's bigger and more powerful looking."I almost bought the Roto Zip, but decided to keep looking cause it just had too much of a gimmicky feel about it...didn't look strong enough to do much grinding either. It kinda reminds me of my Dremel...the same Dremel that get used maybe once a year (works good for drywall cut-out though).I ended up finding the same tool that had died on me...found it at the Sears Hardware only store, which makes sense since the old one was a Craftsman too. The stores just a long drive away though...I wonder why nobody else either makes this tool or doesn't stock it?Craftsman just calls it a Rotary Grinder...it looks like a Dremel on steroids. It comes with a 1/8 and 1/4 inch collets. It's actually less Amps than the RotoZip, yet its more powerful...that didn't make much sense to me. But it'll also take the spiral-cut blades...don't know if the extra power will make them work better or not.But I think its a tool worth considering as an alternative...Q
*For plaster and lath....I like a plunge cut with the little circular saw...an old blade.....and hopefully someone holding the shop vac at the cut line. The Zpi's probably burning the old horse hair! Jeff
*For plaster and lath....I like a plunge cut with the little circular saw...an old blade.....and hopefully someone holding the shop vac at the cut line. The Zip's probably burning the old horse hair! Jeff
*I bought a couple of simple router bits for my RotoZip yesterday - biggest is a 3/8" dia. striaght cutter. Works surprisingly well as long as cutting depth is limited. The biggest problem is getting the damn base perpendicular to the bit.did
*My impression is that these originated for cutting outlet openings in drywall. If you've got a laminate trimmer, Roto-Zip's adapter with a 1/4" shank that holds the 1/8" bits with a setscrew will fit the trimmer like it was made for it, and you can then use the trimmer for drywall cutouts. It leaves the trimmer looking like it got caught in an explosion in a flour factory, but as far as I know, gypsum's pretty low in toxicity and grittiness, so unlikely to do much harm.When you're done, then, you can use the laminate trimmer for kitchen counters, light routing, etc.I think this is a far better investment.
*i but as far as I know, gypsum's pretty low in toxicity and grittiness, so unlikely to do much harm.If it weren't, I suppose it wouldn't be used to make tofu with.b : )
*The dewalt cut out tool is where it's at. I've used mine for just about everything it wasn't designed for and it's still kicking. Here is a hint about the guide point bits that rotozip makes, they don't work well. I take regular bits and run the last quarter inch or so lightly againt a file to wear down the flutes and they track great around outlet boxes and such. you can do the same rick at the base of the bit to make a "top bearing" If you are just doing drywall get one of the big 1/4 inch bits and it will last all day, cuts faster too. I've also used the big bits to cut holes in the sides of a house for dryer vents and such. one more hint, if your still burning trough the plastic boxes circle them the wrong way, (clockwise) the bit wil lstill cut drywall, but it's less likley to grab the box.
*When I started building my house I bought a Rotozip (because I had an excuse to). Finally found a use for it (besides a little drywall work) -- cutting tile backer board (Hardiboard). Makes cutting out the heating registers a snap, as well as corner cuts. I use a drywall T-square, or a 12" speed square to guide my cuts. Only cut where I have to, and score and snap the rest. The circle cutter works great for toilet flanges. I'm using the 1/4" carbide bit -- cuts fine, can't see that it's getting dull, you just have to take your time. How else would you do this sort of thing?
*Last drywall crew I worked around used a cheap B&D router, $5 at a garage sale, with the base removed. They claimed it had more power and worked just as well. Being so cheap they dogged it mecilessly but it seemed to hold up. I do wish they would use a little less depth on the cuts around electrical boxes. The drywall is only 1/2 or 5/8" deep and yet they managed to damage the romex 2-1/2" back as it entered the box. This is an ongoing problem with many drywall crews.
*John,I've got to agree with many of the previous comments. The Rotozip is not the easiest tool to guide freestyle. One needs to use both hands and proceed slowly. They must make their "big bucks" by selling the replacement bits - they break too easily.I must admit that I fell for their slick commercials, and it was a big let-down. You know what they say about a sucker being born every minute.In the past I had used a Foredom tool with a flexible shaft and had gotten a lot of stange looks when I hauled it out and started using it. I got it through a lapidary supply house in Chicago - mail order. You can find classified ads in the Lapidary Journal selling them. It did great with a carbide burr. The burr lasted until it worn out (didn't break!!!), and the handpiece gave me good control. In addition I could cut into the center of a ceramic tile to make an opening for a light switch, with zero difficulty - try that once with a Rotozip, and you'll never try it again. There are other cheaper knock-offs like a Dremel, but don't get sucked in there - go for the Foredom. You won't regret it. Now that I've given my Rotozip the opportunity to show what it can and can't do I'll be selling it and going back to the Foredom. Anyone want to buy it? Like new. Some broken bits included at no extra charge.Cliff.
*Get the Dremel cutout tool. They are running an animated commercial on TV that shows it outperforming a circular saw and a jig saw. But on the other hand, you can get the rotozip solaris in five different designer colors.
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Anyone own any of these cutout tools. I remember using one about a year ago- the Porter Cable one. Blades kepts on burning on wood or bits would break on durock boards. The chuck that held the bits was flimsy also.
Anyone own the Dewalt or Bosch version of this tool. Looking for some feedback or a cutout tool that works.