Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 25, 2000 12:34pm | #1

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   The only tool I know is a post hole digger. If the post is rotted off, there's nothing down there to attach hardware to.

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   Guest_ | Jul 25, 2000 02:21pm | #2

   *Suck it up, and replace the post. In the long run it will be faster, and less irritating than trying to fix it, which will not work.

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   Guest_ | Jul 25, 2000 03:10pm | #3

   *I've seen metal (guessing Al? maybe steel?) brackets that are driven 24"-36" or so into the ground. They have a long tapered end that gets buried. The square part of the bracket that remains above grade receives the bottom 4"-6" of the 4-by post. I'm not sure how the post is attached to the bracket...clamped, screwed? I've never looked at them too closely.I've seen them at both the lumberyards and at the big boxes. Not sure how effective they are, though.

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   Guest_ | Jul 25, 2000 03:17pm | #4

   *Lee Valley Tools 1 800 871-8158 has a classic reprint series of manuals etc. originally published around 100 years ago. In one called "Fences,Gates&Bridges" p.112, there is illustrated a technique for lengthening fenceposts by splicing. A scarf is cut in the upper, rail-supporting half. A matching, but shouldered, scarf is cut into the lower half. The two halves are then bolted together. The joint is then wrapped with a band of malleable steel. However, unless you're a prodigy of the chainsaw (or a glutton for punishment) the post will have to be dismantled from the rails to cut the upper scarf, in which case, replacing the post (Unless it's some rare uneasily reproduced ornamental) would probably be the way easier way to go.

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   Scott_Chadbourne | Jul 27, 2000 06:24am | #5

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   Around the farm we dig a hole next to the rotted post and attach another post about 3ft long to the bad post. Same principle to replace pole barn post that have rotted off at the ground ... dig a hole next to the defective post and bolt a cripple to it.

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   Guest_ | Jul 29, 2000 08:53pm | #6

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   I saw a suggestion once where a concrete splint was used to fix fence posts. The splint was formed with cast in place holes (use plastic pipe) which were used to bolt it to the existing post.

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   Guest_ | Jul 30, 2000 06:06am | #7

   *Joe,I've used the thing Mongo refered to. I think they're sold as a way to support a mailbox on a 4x4. I used it because I needed to have one (ocaisionally)removeable fence post. It worked well for my purpose. You drive it in, then slip in your post and tighten the clamp. It may work for you if only the one post is rotted (not usually the case though).Jerry

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   Guest_ | Jul 30, 2000 06:20pm | #8

   *b TVMDCSimple solution commonly used here in L.A.: Excavate a 12" dia hole about 18" deep alongside the rotted post amd sink a 2" galvanized pipe into about (2) sacks of concrete. Snug the post up against the post above ground while the mud is still wet and attach the pipe to the wood post with 2" pipe hangers (half-circle with two tabs).Make certain you taper the mud up an inch above grade around the pipe so water will run off or you will have to replace the rusted pipe in several years' time.

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   Ross_McGerty | Aug 02, 2000 01:59am | #9

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   I agree, I've had good results replacing 4x4 wood posts with 3 inch ABS pipe (which is 3 1/2in. OD) and through-bolting to fasten the fence framing. This keeps the wood away from both moisture in the ground and, in my neighbourhood, Termites!!

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   Guest_ | Aug 02, 2000 02:57am | #10

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   Sawsall the sections of fence on each side of the rotted post. Swing each section in opposite directions. remove old concrete and rotted post. place a new 4x4 incised pressure treated post in the center of the old hole, bringing the two sections of fence together on each side of the post dump 1-2 bags of pre-mix concrete into the hole water down, plumb, and re-fasten fence sections. Incised Pressure treated posts are guarenteed for fifty years and relatively inexpensive. Good luck!

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   Guest_ | Aug 04, 2000 12:58am | #11

   *Another reason to use metal tee posts...I would just stick a metal tee post next to the rotten wood one...thats what we do....If its a corner post i would replace it with a pressure treated round post rated for below ground use and concrete the sucker in.....watching the chickens peck the termites.....

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   Guest_ | Aug 05, 2000 12:00am | #12

   *Near Downtown Toronto the utility poles have more c*** on them than you can imagine. Replacing one of those would require days of work. They cut off the base (trust me, it will be supported by all those wires on the crossarms), removed the stump, poured a huge snot of concrete, and bolted on two huge angle braces that they clamped to the pole. It looks like hell, but it works for them. I would think a similar stunt would work for you.

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   Guest_ | Aug 07, 2000 01:41am | #13

   *b TVMDCYeah, but you gotta watch out for the birds on the wires above.

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   Guest_ | Aug 07, 2000 02:15am | #15

   *Usually, only the part at the ground surface is rotted, the part below grade is fine.I've dug down just a few inches to expose the top of the good post, double wrapped a piece of light chain around it so it grabs the post tight, and used a Hi-lift jack to pull it out.Now you've got a predug hole for the new post in just the right spot.

6. 
   Joe_Pilcher | Aug 07, 2000 02:15am | #14

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   Does anyone know of any hardware available for repairing a fence post that has rotted at or below grade? The post above grade is excellent as is the fence. Is this fence post problem a common problem throughout the country?
   Any information regarding available literature, magazines, etc. would be appreciated.