Replies

1. 
   harrisdog43 | Aug 22, 2004 04:49am | #1

   I have used epoxy to repair numerous rotted wood problems. I use System Three's rot fix and sculp wood. The rot fix is thin and is put on first after removing as much "loose stuff" as possible. You do not have to wait for it to cure before adding the sculp wood. It is like dough and comes in two parts. Wear rubber gloves. Scoop out a golf ball sized hunk of each and work them well. They really gotta be mixed thoroughly.

   Smooth it out and leave it pretty much in the final state (less sanding that way). Prime it and paint (or you could leave it natural. The rot fix is fine to "paint" the ends of any boards that will be covered by the fascia board (I think you said you were going to nail a fascia board on).

   john

2. 
   alias | Aug 22, 2004 05:35am | #2

   this sounds like a perfect application for abatron wood epox (a-b)

   and the wood consolident from abatron called liquid wood. make some gusset plate's from plywood ,use pam or wax paper(for a release agent) on the face pointed towards the rot. use the liquid wood consolidant first. then use an ample amount for the rough shape of the tale. then make a sandwich w/ the two gusset 's squeeze it together let any extra let it be .you'll sand that later,let it dry 12/18 hours take it off fill the voids with min-wax wood filler final sand. your ready for prime/paint..... the stuff has structual capabilities also. i'm a shill for this stuff, historical restoration is 90% of my business. again is light ,tough, not cheap, and shapes easy. also look into west system and it's many fillers another amazing versatile product . slainte' bear

   "expectations are premeditated resentments"
3. 
   nikkiwood | Aug 22, 2004 06:34am | #3

   I too can vouch for the Abatron products. Here is a link to the wood restoration products on their web site:

   http://www.abatron.com/home002.htm

   Don't skip the LiquidEpox in your situation. This product will harden the rotted wood fibers, and give the WoodEpox (2 part putty) a good surface to adhere to.

   There are many other brands (I have heard good things about the West System products), but all the these epoxies are expensive. However, as you are thinking about less expensive alternatives, someone is bound to recommend automotive products (like Bondo). I have never had any luck with these products, and I would urge you to avoid them. Eventually, they deteriorate, and will start to chip away and blow the paint off the surface. Whatever they are made with, they just don't move in sync with the wood as the products like Abatron do.

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Aug 22, 2004 04:34pm | #4

   I have used the Abatron Wood Epox once, and it did well.  Interestinmg stuff.  Comes in two plastic gallon buckets that must weigh about a pound each ... I thought I had been sent empty buckets.  The raw consistency is like marshmallow fluff.  Best way to mix it is with plastic gloves and knead it like bread dough.  It seems to be non-sticky and you think you could have skipped the gloves, and then it starts to react a little ... it gets sticky and real hard to clean off your hands.  I did not get the epoxy primer, but I will next time.  Without the primer, it is difficult to get the filler to stick to the void ... takes some extra tooling.

   Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt

4. 
   mike4244 | Aug 22, 2004 09:22pm | #5

   What I do is nail 2x4 or 4x4 blocking between rafters, then nail the facia board to the blocking. If the rot is severe, then I sister short pieces of 2x to the rafters. I nail a 2x header on if possible before nailing finished facia.

   mike

1. 
   DavidEsq | Aug 23, 2004 01:32am | #6

   Thanks everybody for the info. I will look around my area (seattle) on monday morning and see what products are available. I do like the idea of nailing a 2x4 between the rafters and then fascia board over that because sisteringb along side ruins the look. Since they are not in to bad a shape I'll give the epoxy a try. Thanks for the tip on using gloves even thoough it dosen't start out sticky and using gussets as forms. good info and thanks for the quik response. Dave

5. 
   csnow | Aug 23, 2004 11:16pm | #7

   The key to success with epoxy is applying it to very dry wood.  Wet wood will not absorb epoxy.  Tent the area for several days, and force dry it further with a heat gun or hair dryer prior to application (do let it cool before saturating).

   Also helps to drill several small holes into to endgrain to encourage absorption.

6. 
   Scooter1 | Aug 23, 2004 11:21pm | #8

   If you are going to destroy beautifull decorative rafter tails with Facsia, then might as well sister a dumb 2x4 to either side. I wouldn't even bother with epoxy.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

1. 
   DavidEsq | Aug 24, 2004 07:58am | #9

   They are just your basic 2x4 rafter tails sticking out. I would hardly call them beautiful or decorative. Sistering 2x4s would really look like crap. I'm trying not to do a hack job on this house. David

1. 
   RickD | Aug 24, 2004 05:12pm | #10

   But on a 1922 house, the "flying rafter tails" were probably an intentional design element.  All the 20's houses in my area had them, now most are vinyled/aluminumed over.  When you see a house that still has them you can really see the difference, even if they are small rafters.  Try to keep them.

   I found this discussion at American Bungalow, check it out http://americanbungalowmagazine.com/ubbthreads/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=exteriors&Number=15670&page=&view=&sb=&o=

   Edited 8/24/2004 10:16 am ET by RickD

1. 
   DavidEsq | Aug 30, 2004 10:37am | #11

   Rick D

   thanks for the link. I'll will check it out. david

2. 
   maverick | Aug 30, 2004 02:33pm | #12

   Sistering would only look like crap if you left the rotted part. Cut off all the existing rafter tails at the plate, then sister. You will have single tails without compromising your spacing.