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Rotten wood column wrap

Pelzmonster | Posted in Construction Techniques on May 14, 2012 07:34am

I looked at a job today.

The house has several 18′ high columns that are 4×4 wrapped in 1×12. Fairly common things.

The 1×12 is finger jointed pine and it is starting to rot (the house is 15years old)

The rit is mostly along the bottom about 1′ up.

I would like to replace the whole column wrap ideally but in order to save the client some money I am trying to think of other options.

Ideally I would use azek or at least no1 Pressure treated pine with two coats of exerior wood primer to replace the whole thing.

Is it a viable option to just replace the rotten foot up. I don`t like the idea of this, since the rest might start rotting soon.

 

I don`t think i am the only person who ever dealt with an issue like this.

Let me know what solutions you used.

Thank you

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Replies

  1. DanH | May 14, 2012 07:49am | #1

    It's viable to replace the bottom foot.  And if you treat the joint right (apply primer to the cut ends of the wood, et al) the rest of the wood should last 50 years.  The bottom part rots because the end sits in water.

  2. calvin | May 14, 2012 07:59am | #2

    Definitely an option

    You certainly can repair rather than replace.   Do it in such a manner that it will look like it's always been there and was the preferred design in the first place.

    Remember to vent the top to allow any moisture within to have a place to exit.  And, vent the bottom to allow air to enter.

    When doing the bottoms, try to stack (backwards) the laps of your new post base so that it naturally sheds water.  Azek or other pvc would be a good replacement product.

    If you use wood, remember that shrinkage / expansion occurs in the width of the board.  If you rewrap the lower portion and change grain direction you could be asking for trouble with the joints opening up unless you allow for the expansion/shrinkage. If you use wood, paint/seal all sides and hold the bottom off the concrete-caulk if necessary at that joint.

    1. DanH | May 14, 2012 08:15am | #3

      Of course, if he uses Azek then shrinkage and grain direction should not be a serious issue.  The trick is to design the joint so that water will not stand in it.  Ideally there should be a slight cant to the joint, though cutting that would be a challenge.

      1. calvin | May 14, 2012 04:19pm | #5

        If he overlaps the current post wrap............

        then it makes no real difference what he uses, the expansion / shrinkage of the original column wrap can do unsightly things to that repair.

        1. DanH | May 14, 2012 08:21pm | #8

          The existing should be fully dried and isn't going to move much.  It will expand/contract with the seasons a bit, but if the joint use a reveal vs trying to be "hidden" that amount of motion should be of no great consequence.

          1. calvin | May 14, 2012 09:59pm | #9

            Just telling you what I know Dan.............

            Unsealed on the inside,  wood that's not vented can and will pick up moisture from a slab or other moisture source quite readily.   The wood can expand laterally up to a qtr inch depending upon the size of the column.  If you wrap it tight with wood (grain going the other way-baseboard for example) then you can expect those mitres to open up a lot!

            If the original is from an old growth source, his chances for success are better.

            This information is no bull shit.

  3. User avater
    hammer1 | May 14, 2012 09:28am | #4

    Dang finger jointed junk. They use waste that wouldn't be used otherwise. Each small piece is a reject, has wild grain and each one will move differently than the one next to it. I used some very expensive FJ and primed 5/4 on a house for corner boards, window trim, etc. None of it was in contact with surface or in a situation where water would accumulate. The slight movement between individual pieces opened the glue joints and let ordinary water soak in. 80% of a board would be fine but several pieces here and there would be shedding paint and breaking down. I'll never use it again but I can't find solid wood jambs for exterior doors anymore. At least you can order treated FJ jambs but I have my doubts over the long term.

    Could you cut off the rotted bottoms and then make a base cap to cover everything? You wouldn't have to be concerned with fitting to the cuts, just cover them.

    1. DanH | May 14, 2012 08:19pm | #7

      If they would use, say, resorcinol glue in the joints, finger jointed wood would be great.  But they seem to use library paste.

  4. User avater
    coonass | May 14, 2012 05:07pm | #6

    Peizmonster,
    Done a bunch of these over the years by wrapping the bottom with treated 2x12 that has a round over on the top edge. Use Titebond 3 to seal the cut edge of the FG and prime all sides of the 2x. Just have to find some dry treated. Some yards have KDAT that works great. We also put little round vents top and bottom of the column.

    KK

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