Since I got such a good response and good information from my first question on a rough floor (high spots), I have another question. When you walk in my shop just in front of the door, there is a decided depression. Is there any way one could fill it up. It is probably sixteen inches in diameter but a quarter inch deep. Maybe not all that much but it is very noticeable. The floor has been sealed and that may make it hard to get anything to adhere to it.
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I would give that area a bit of acid wash to etch the surface. (most sealers are absorbed-they don't sit on the surface)
Then I'd paint on some concrete glue.
I'd probably use a vinyl concrete patch if I didn't care about the color and the floor had a smooth finish. Sand mix if it is a rough surface.
After it set up a bit I'd lay a damp rag over it to slow cure. If I could remember I'd keep it damp for a while.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
I don't think that sand mix will with something that low.But there are cement patch mixes that will go from feather up to 1/2".And Armstrong (and Henry) floor patches that will work also. They are fast setting materials. Less than 10 minutes or so..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
It works on a sidewalk patch, just work out the larger sand grains. This keeps the city fathers away on the mandatory repair or replace. The key is clean and the glue. Depends on the finish he wants-garage floor probably smooth, so a vinyl patch probably.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
It has been a long time since I used vinyl concrete or for that fact see it in the store.Did not care for it. Did not see to bond very well and did not look right. It has a dark and shinny finish.Last summer I used Top & Bond. Now it says that it has a additive (maybe "vinyl" or pva), but the finished product looked more like regular concrete. But I don't know how it has lasted..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Thanks, I will take that into advisement. It may be a while but it is on the list. It would be nice if I could keep the same color but what can you do. I expect when I grind down the high spots I'll have quite a contrast of color there. Maybe I should sand down the whole floor and epoxy it.
Is this concrete or wood? (I assume concrete.)
What I've done in the past is to carefully fill the depression with water and then mark the perimeter. Then (after mopping up the water) beat the heck out of the area inside the marks and fill it with the leveling material of your choice.
The problem, of course, is that any material you fill it with will look different from the rest of the floor. If you can't live with that you have to re-coat the whole floor somehow.
Yes, it is concrete. I've never had that kind of problem with wood. Also, I'd never thought of filling the hole with water but sounds like that would be a good way to get the outline to feather the mortar to. Who wouldn't be concerned about the changes of color and possible texture of the surface but it is also inconvenient having the low and the high spots to trip over.
Edited 1/9/2009 10:05 pm ET by Tinkerer3
Strip/ grind off the sealer/ coating. It is a small spot and your are already doing that to the high spots. Shouldn't be a big deal.
Next apply Ardex Feather Finish. It is an engineered cement which can be applied from 1" to 0" - hence the name Feather Finish.
There are now a few companies which make a similar product but I find Ardex is the best.
Frankie
Flay your Suffolk bought-this-morning sole with organic hand-cracked pepper and blasted salt.
Thrill each side for four minutes at torchmark haut. Interrogate a lemon.
Embarrass any tough roots from the samphire. Then bamboozle till it's al dente with that certain je ne sais quoi.
Arabella Weir as Minty Marchmont - Posh Nosh