I’m looking for serrated planer knives for giving an even rough look on dressed lumber (I was told this is how the rough look is done on preprimed spruce and rough on one side cedar here in the north west). any suggestions?
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Replies
There is an attachment for a chainsaw ( Try Baily's) that had planer knives, looks highly dangerous. They are not serrated, but scalloped, to give a hewn look. Like an adze may leave.
If you really want serrated, just grind a slew of nicks ( hell mine get that way after a few crappy boards anyway) in a set of knives for what ever you have..keep in mind tho' they must all line up from knife to knife, else the clean spot on one knife will erase the nick from the previous knife.
I like adzes, chainsaw disc on a grinder, handplanes, spoke shaves, drawknives..for distressing new wood. Much safer.
"you are dead a lot longer than you are alive"
Noah Aaron MacKenzie, 1990.
Is that what those are for? We had one at the timberframe shop for hogging out material. I can't imagine trying to get a decent finished product. The thought is chilling. Yikes.
I saw a guy merrily skipping along a sawn timber on a web site video for log home construction...weilding one of them..talk about a toe eater. Gimme a foot adze any day."you are dead a lot longer than you are alive"Noah Aaron MacKenzie, 1990.
ya forgot chains.[email protected]
Couldn't one put nicks in one knife and reset the others so they don't touch the wood? Would have to leave them in to balance the cutter head.
Sure, if ya wantto blow up a planer. Balanced cutter by weight, is one thing, chip loading is another. I hear bearings waving bye-bye."you are dead a lot longer than you are alive"Noah Aaron MacKenzie, 1990.
detailedbuilder,
Buy a Mikita 1002BA curved base planer and set one knife deep.. looks like hand hewing and goes extremely quickly.
that's not the look I'm looking for. I'm wanting an even rough look like on preprimed spruce boards or one side rough cedar boards which we get in northwest.
Check out the wheel brush from makita, add a steel brush and go to town.
It sounds as if yo are looking for a brush finish, or rough sawn look. Wire brushing is the way to do it, on a small scale.
If you need I'll find the tool number if you can't find it on the Makita website
Yep, level is right. I used this method quite a bit when I was helping rebuilding a historic log cabin for a museum. http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/1069?mv_session_id=3zRHUDdW&product_sku=9741It is anything but cheap, but the resale value is very high if you only need it for awhile.-Day
I want the fuzzy look and not raised grain. It seems to me the makita nylon wheel brush will just make a raised grain look (as in attached picture I found) which is not what I want.
Detailedbuilder:
What species of wood are you using on your project?
Yellow pine and white pine mainly.
Yellow pine and white pine mainly.
So that explains why you can't just use rough-sawn cedar.
I think you said somewhere that you're in the NW. I'm in Seattle and sometimes buy materials from Crosscut Hardwoods. Despite the name, they also stock fir in a rough sawn format, so maybe they have pine, too. Might be worth a few phones calls if you haven't tried already.
The only other alternative I can think of is to buy 2x stock and then pay a millshop to resaw it for you. Then you could build your box beams with the rough side out. (I suppose you could do this yourself, too, if you had a decent bandsaw.)
The nylon brush that comes with the Makita doesn't do much. If you buy the metal/steel wire brush it will bring up the fuzz.
look for samples of wire brushed wood, or put a wire brush on your grinder drill etc and play around with it.
The makita with a metal wire brush will be a lot faster and easier to use and will give a better look as the brush is spinning with the grain and will pull up the fuzz, the longer you let it eat into the wood the more fiber you'll peel up. Or find a local mill or shop that will wire brush the wood for you.
rob
detailedbuilder, The rough finished surface on those boards is most likely from a resaw. That is done on a band saw. One can replicate it so me degree by using a hand held band saw held perpendicular to the lumber so that the blade just brushes the surface and dragging it down the length of the lumber. "Poor is not the person who has too little, but the person who craves more."...Seneca
Edited 6/5/2007 7:37 pm by dovetail97128
Festool makes a couple different distressing type blades for their planer such as the one in the link below.
http://www.festoolusa.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=485331&ID=4
if you have to rip anything you can touch up the re-sawn look with a sawzall.hold it at like 60 degrees and run it back and forth and will bring back the fur.
works good on cobel ends and stuff that removes the fuzz
Scrape it with a hacksaw blade. 12tpi - 18tpi.
SamT
Praise the Corporation, for the Corporations' highest concern is the well being of the public.
I used a rotary wire brush in an angle grinder on red oak to get a rustic look. Be sure to perform outside and wear glasses.
Tung oil was then applied. One coat. Linseed may be cheaper.