Hey gang…
I’m about to hang a whole lotta doors, so I bought the PC hinge template setup (http://www.porter-cable.com/index.asp?e=3399&p=4249).
I have two routers but they are both big beasts (whew, that’s one typo I’m glad I caught) so I’m planning to buy a smaller one, something I’ve felt the need for anyway. Was looking at the 1 3/4 PC combo, but interested in any other opinions.
PaulB
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Replies
paul, I don't know if a laminate router fits that set up, but that's what I use with my jigs. EZ is I can quote dino.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
PC trim router.
You're on taking an 1/8" to maybe a 3/16" max, don't need a lot of horsepower for hinges.
Joe H
paul would have been more on if he had copped from you a while back. Good deal on that quality jig kit.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I'd try that Bosch Colt, this sounds like just the thing it's designed for. It's a bit stouter than most laminate routers but small and easy to handle for this type of thing. All of the reviews I've read on it have been good too.
whatever you go with, small and light makes your world a happy place. If you get a PC, I think they've got a 3/4 or 7/8 hp little guy - I'm trying to remember 10 years ago when I hung a lot of doors day in and day out. Anyway. Only other thing I can think of is make sure you have a way of fitting the bushings into the base. Some brands you have to also buy adapters in addition to the router.
"If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain
an excellent point.
your router must have a base that can accept the proper size template guides
carpenter in transition
Curious - Are you already a carpenter and transitioning to something else, or are you wanting to be a carpenter?
Why?
When will it end?
Don
Don
take it easy. one question at a time.
once a carpenter, always a carpenter.
it's just that i'm better dressed now.
because of the air conditioning.
but mainly because work required i bring 50 things with me every day . and i could only remember 49. and it was always that one thing that i didn't have.
it will never end............
carpenter in transition
I have a DeWalt laminate trimmer and just bought a PC 310, adding Pat Warner's bases for the 310. I use these exclusively for hanging doors. I leave the DeWalt set up for the Bosch hinge template set up, adjusting for depth of hinges. I use the PC for strike plates, etc. Easier to adjust height w/ accuracy. Just put in 2 French doors yesterday, worked like a dream. I used to horse around with the PC 690, but these laminate trimmers make it sweet and simple. I haven't tried the new Bosch, but I'm sure it would be solid...I just read about it in the Fine Woodworker's review of the Rigid and Bosch Laminate trimmers.
Edited 8/17/2005 3:58 pm ET by unTreatedwood
un
who is Pat Warner ?
carpenter in transition
http://www.patwarner.com/index.html
great link for anyone interested some serious router work.
cool thanks.
carpenter in transition
Just an old age brain fart. His name is Pat Speilman.
first, I didn't know Pat Warner.
now, who is Pat Spielman ?
carpenter in transition
Like I posted previously, the reference to Pat Warner was bogus.Patrick Speilman has authored a slew of books on using the router to it's fullest potential. His books are distributed through Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.I have his "Router Jigs & Techniques" from 1988. You can usually find his other offerings at your Public Library in the 680 section. The Dewey Decimal number of "RJ&T" is 684.083-dc19. A look-up in the libraries card catalog/electronic database on his name, should bingo for you. If they do not have this or a different title "In House" the inter-library loan system should be able to get it to your local branch library.
http://www.patwarner.com/So this is bogus???
Bob
I was wondering about that myself, I use Patwarner.com so much I feel like I owe him something.
Doug
In reference to the shop owner where the episode of American Woodworker was filmed; yes. It was shot in Patrick Speilman's facility.P.S. I followed your link to Pat Warner's site. I noodled over to the link for the DW621 Offset Base. to hear him tell it, I must be blessesd that I got anything done at all without his base. While I personally would rank it as "training wheels", the product description has me a little unsure. Right, I think I'll pass.
Of all the gotta have router accessories out there, one and only one would I rank as a gotta have; and that is the Leigh RVA1. It's their answer to vacuum attachments. This pup really gets it done.
That PC hinge template is a great tool. In looking at the enlarged image, I do not see some crucial parts pictured. As I remember, when I bought mine, 20 years ago, I needed to order some additional parts.
On your parts list these are reference #113, labeled "Jamb Gage" (thier spelling, not mine). These are attached, one each to the side of the template body and are crucial for setting the individual template spacing to match existing work. They are sized from 3" to 6" by 1/2" increments. If your set does not have these in it, to match the existing hinge gains, you will have to order some,as I did.
There is a special line of door hinges compatible with router mortised hinge gains. The ones with 1/4" round corners mate with the radius of a 1/2" bit. I kept running into door replacements with 5/8" round corners and bought a 1 1/8" diameter bit. With the appropriate template collar, no modification to the PC was necessary.
It's not a complicated jig, but I'd suggest you test your configuration on a 1x4 before setting-to on the door.
For securing the door while working it, for the longest time I got by merely clamping the door between a pair of milk crates. I added appropriately sized pieces of Masonite, as the cheese in the "door sandwich".
The only other item needed is the appropriate Vix bit, and you're good to go.
Glad to hear you liked it Dun...for that kind of money I had to think hard. What did you use for a router? I originally bought the PC laminate trimmer as has been suggested but the base is too small to be well supported in the template opening and seemed like an accident waiting to happen to me.
P.S... what did you use for boring the locksets? I was looking at the Classic Engineering jig but priceyyyyyyyyyyyyy.
Edited 8/17/2005 7:18 pm ET by PaulBinCT
The router I use is a D handle Makita. It accepts the PC template collars.
For boring the locksets, I lucked-out and found a Kwikset lock boring set in my Pawn Shop travels. It clamps on the door and has provisions for 2 3/8 and 2 3/4 backsets. There is also an intersecting guide for the door edge latch hole.
The kit was complete with a huge single spur bit for the lock body. I'm a big guy, and I spin it with a Milwaukee Magnum and even with using the assist handle, I just didn't want to twist the wrist off my eating hand, so I bought a deep holesaw to use instead. Works just fine, since you only bore a tad past half-way from each face anyway. The kit also has a four blade, knife edge, "stamp" type cutter. You insert it's guide knob in the latch borehole, and let out your agression with a decent rap. It's minor chisel work from there in. The "stamp" also works with dead bolt latches as well. There should also be a 1' diameter "trensfer punch" that you insert into the latch bore hole, close the door and by advancing it with your hand through the lockset hole, accurately locate the center-point for boring the jamb for the latch hole and/or the DBolt latch hole. Once these are bored, it's back to the handy "stamp" for the appropriate latch plate.
If you spoil one door, you'll be out the cost of the finished door plus the lockset boring kit you will buy in retrospect. In addition to tool rental yards, both Lowe's and HD are expanding their inventory of rental tools. If your future doesn't hold replacing enough doors, try the rental route. Check out all sources, it's possible they will have different brands of kits, so you can examine both before even renting.
Come to think of it, my locksmith bud had a boring jig he WAS going to sell. If you are interested, I can ask if he still has it.
Now that you have the excellent PC hinge template set, look at the clever door clamp Carey products has. The door is held vertical by it's own weight without any other hardware.
I'd be very interested Dun... thanks!
Regarding the lockset boring jig...
As luck would have it, this last June, my friend has sold the locksmith store, and is now semi-retired.
Story of my life ;) thanks anyway!
a 1' diameter "trensfer punch" that you insert into the latch bore hole, close the door and by advancing it with your hand through the lockset hole
When I first started doing doors (shortly after the earth cooled), I made a "transfer punch" from a piece of 1" dowel with a nail point in the center of one end. Thought I was really swift until I saw a guy with a Kwickset kit. Kinda humbling. I never bought one of the kits, but I think that piece of dowel is still around somewhere - lol.
1.75 HP is more than ample for hinge mortising.
Use bits designed for the job. A plain straight bit will do the job, but not as well as a mortising bit. Jesada and Amana make good ones.
I had a few opportunities to visit the west coast plants that make the pine door jambs in very high volume for all the big jobbers that hang exterior entry doors. It was cool to see how fast a multi-head routing station can eat out the hinge and strike mortises in door frames.
Those router heads probably had less than 1.75 hp motors.
If you've a lot to do of these, and your customer will accept 5/8" radius hinges, your mortise cutting time can be cut real short, as compared to 1/4" R hinges. That is the reason 5/8" R is the favorite pattern of the door plants. Hinge cost is the same, but machining time is less.
When hanging a whole lotta doors, I prefer to have a router with a trigger switch instead of a toggle. (I guess if I could reach the switch with my thumb it would be okay). Routers are noisy and its nice to turn them on without hassle when you need them and off when you are done. I have the Bosch hinge jig and a small 1hp Makita 2 handle router that stays with the jig and is used for nothing else.
http://makita.com/Tools_Item_View.asp?id=127
After routing and screwing the hinges in place, I flip the doors, bevel with a power planer, and belt sand smooth before boring with a 2 1/8" bi-metal hole saw (lasts longer)and drill with a 1" or 7/8" forstner bit depending on the lockset. A brad point pilot bit in the hole saw increases the accuracy. I'm not too crazy about lockset boring jigs, after about 10 doors the bits tend to dull, carbide is better but its not initially that sharp anyway. I can bore 100+ doors with a bi-metal hole saw and not notice any substantial loss of speed.
If you are hanging a whole lotta doors, accuracy and speed is where its at.
Thanks Gord... I'll look into the Makita.
I use a PC laminate trimmer with my hinge jig.
But I had to make a bigger base plate for it.
aproxx. 6x6x14 lexan.
The old PC 7/8 hp router was the tool for the job.
But the newer smaller trimmers and LD routers are smaller and lighter.
Mr. T. MOTOL
"I think natural selection must have greatly rewarded the ability to reassure oneself in a crisis with complete bull$hit."
I'm Swiss!
Paul,
I use a laminate trim router.Whole lot less bulk and weight and plenty of power for routing hinge mortises.
Bill
That was my original plan, but as I mentioned the baseplate is too small for the PC jig. I may wind up going that route and making up a larger baseplate...decisions decisions ;)
a laminate trimmer makes a perfect router for hinges because of its small size, i use a makita freehand after scoring the cutout with a knife around the hinges
with a hinge template, a suitable guide bushing will be required