Replies

1. 
   Ted W. | Jan 28, 2009 02:21am | #1

   I would use melamine or similar, as it's stable and won't warp over time as plywood or solid wood probably will. From that, I would rout a hole in the middle to fit a router base plate. Tricky to describe in words, I'll get a photo of my homemade router table. Be right back...

   ~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools - BuildersTools.net
   See my work - TedsCarpentry.com

1. 
   andyfew322 | Jan 28, 2009 02:28am | #2

   cool, I was planning on putting lots of support below and two layers of ply and laminite on top. pics would be nice :) 

    

   The TOTALLY REVAMPED Cocobolo Boy Websitehttp://www.cocoboloboy.webs.com

1. 
   Ted W. | Jan 28, 2009 02:44am | #5

   Looks like we were posting at the same time. What a coinkidink! <g>

   Mine is built into a work table, not attached to my table saw. But wait, I have a couple of photos of my detachable outfeed extension that may help...

    

    

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   Ironically, I use an outfeed stand to support the outfeed table, but it works. I guess you could do something like this on the side of your saw and cut your router base plate into that.~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools - BuildersTools.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com

2. 
   Ted W. | Jan 28, 2009 02:28am | #3

   Okay, here it is...

   View Image

   As for attaching it to your table saw, that depends on your table saw and what spare parts you have laying around. ~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools - BuildersTools.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com

1. 
   andyfew322 | Jan 28, 2009 02:35am | #4

   how is the router actually attached in there?
    

    

   The TOTALLY REVAMPED Cocobolo Boy Websitehttp://www.cocoboloboy.webs.com

1. 
   Ted W. | Jan 28, 2009 02:51am | #6

   The plate is an accessory I bought separately (I bought it for the plastic collar guides that fits it). I laid the plate where I want it to go and traced a line around it. Then set my router depth to its thickness and routed out the top part of the hole. Then I took a jigsaw and cut out almost to the edge, so leaving a flange that the plate sits on.

   From there I used bondo, screws, whatever works to get it flush. This one is not removeable, but I could have taken more time and made it a perfect fit, so wouldn't need the bondo or screws and could remove it, but that's not important to me. I just keep my old 3 HP craftsman router attached to it at all times, since I will never use that giant router for anything else. ~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools - BuildersTools.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com

2. 
   catfish | Jan 28, 2009 04:37pm | #9

   I bought a cheap $100 workbench from a Big Lots (liquidators) and drilled a hole for the router bit. That gives me 4 ft. on each end and 18 inches on each side. When not in use, it can be used as a work table.This was a put-together yourself bench, I glued all joints. Also has a lower tray and 2 POS vices, but they are handy for some things.

2. 
   AitchKay | Jan 28, 2009 03:31am | #7

   I've ended up with an extension table for my Unisaw that's pretty hard to beat:

   I had a big job on which I wanted to go straight from saw to edgebander with smooth cuts all the way, so I decided that I needed to be able to mount a power feeder on my TS. That ruled out my existing melamine top.

   My local tool store had a "defective" Unisaw top that was a couple thousandths out of spec for flat, so they sold it to me for $75.

   I also bought a standard cast-iron extension, and a cast=iron router table unit that was designed to accept another, vertical router table setup. The horizontal table has a notch in the far right edge to let a horizontal router bit slide up through the table when you rotate the vertical table on its rear pivot to adjust the cut.

   I can't remember who made it, but one of these days, I'm going to track down one of those vertical tables (out of production), and then I'll have a really tweaked unit.

   But for now, I've got solid cast iron all the way out, 52" or whatever. Looks a little strange with TWO throat plates, but it's the bomb.

   AitchKay

3. 
   OldGuy | Jan 28, 2009 11:33am | #8

   I too am fixin' to upgrade to a "real" router table.

   My inspiration and processes are pretty much from "Router Magic" by Bill Hylton. Besides the table ideas, there is a bunch of neat jigs, and tools in this book.

   I just picked up a chunk of 3/8" plexi for a couple bases. Now I'm waiting for above freezing temps to work in my unheated shop.

   Enjoy,
   -Paul

4. 
   rasconc | Jan 28, 2009 06:59pm | #10

   I inherited one of the Craftsman "industrial" tables. The top can be mounted on the rails of my Ridgid table saw. Have not decided whether or not to keep it stand alone or put it in. I have the 3612 which has a pretty long right hand extension. Would consider some sort of a brace if adding much weight very far out.

   Sink cutouts from kitchen counter installs can make some nice ext inserts.

   For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.