I have these salvaged posts ( see pic ) that are fluted on two sides and I would like to do the other two sides. I have no router experience (other than rotozipping boxes in drywall <g>), but want to get one and do this.
Can anyone give tips or direct me to a site or publication that might give me insight as to what type of jig or setup I will need to pull it off ?
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
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Replies
a plunge router with an edge guide and an appropriate sized core box bit will quickly make those flutes.
It looks like you should be able to do 2 passes, one from each side, and get 2 flutes.
Set up some stop blocks if you're not comfortable stopping by eye.
simple way is to use a router with an edge guide with a round nose bit or a bowl or tray router bit
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Nice salvage.
You demo it or buy from a shop?
at 4 bucks a pill and I didn't last four hours
I want my money back!
sobriety is the root cause of dementia.
I bought them for 75 bucks a piece about 5 years ago at a shop, stripped and primed them last month. Using them for an arbor. Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
I've done a lot of flutes with a 1/2" core box bit and a couple of different plunge routers.
First cut a piece of scrap the same width, and about twice as long as your work piece. Measure to the front and back edge of the router and screw stops to the scrap. Plunge the router and make test cuts that are as close to the depth as you can. Doesn't have to be exact as they're on different sides. Attach an edge guide to your router and measure over to the center line of the outside cut. Rout this on your scrap block, then, without changing anything, do the other side. Mesure the other cut and do the same. If it works on your scrap it'll do the same on the post. May have to fill a couple of holes in the post where you attached the stops.
Hey Ruff, Those flutes look like they tail-off out of the reccess. I think a box bit will round out at the ends. Maybe finish off with a rounded chisel.
If you want the other side to match!
-Lou
I just use a piece of 1/2" dowel with some 150 to "tail out" the ends. Round the end of the dowel too. You usually get some fuzzing at the end of the cut anyway.
In the August/September 2005 issue of FHB, Jim Chestnut wrote an article called "Router Bits I Can't Live Without" where he shows a method for making tapered flutes. He basically does everything the other posters say but attaches blocks cut at 50 degrees to either end of the flute to let the router ease into the run. He does not use a plunge router for this application.
I made a jig following the same idea so I wouldn't have to attach the blocks to every workpiece and it works great. For just doing 1 or 2, then Jim's method looks like the best way.
Thanks to everyone for the replies, looks like I have an excuse to buy a new tool.
I'll do some practice and hopefuly get it done this weekend.
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Went ahead and routed today, also fluted the tops. The rustic look of the columns was forgiving to a couple of rookie mistakes. Started the assembly of the arbor for our front yard.
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
what method did ya use???
BTW... looks good...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I picked up a craftsman router with a guide and used a box core bit and did a pass from each side twice and one pass for the center. Softened the ends with one of my dad's rounded Bucks and some sand paper.
Tell me, how would you make this connection ? The post is notched 2 1/4" deep x 22' long to accept the two clear cedar 1x12's.
I plan on using four pocket screws where I drew the dots and gorilla glue. Am I setting myself up for a possible split of the 1x's Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
I take the mortise is 2-1/4" deep and the 1 by is the tenon...
you shold be good to go...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Thanks! Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
yur welcome...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
you could blind nail them with a 2" 15ga nail....
less work...
use Tite Bond instead of Gorilla...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!