FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Running A Conduit under a driveway

BobChapman | Posted in Construction Techniques on November 15, 2008 09:17am

Gentlemen,

I’m going to put in a driveway gate, electrically operated.  It’s a double-leaf gate hinged on both sides of driveway, with the two halves meeting in the middle of the driveway when it’s closed.   So it has to have electrical operators on both sides of the driveway, and they have to communicate electrically so that they operate together.

There’s really no way to connect them except to pull a conduit under the driveway, at 18″ depth per local code.  I much prefer to bore a hole under the driveway, rather than trench-and-patch the relatively new driveway surface and belgian block curbs.  The length of the run is 15′ under the driveway.

Who has some geat ideas about how to do this.  My best local tool rental place has a drill of some sort, but 15′ is too long for their equipment.

I tried to search this site, but it didn’t turn up anything.  Perhaps I don’t know how to do that in the best way, because I should have thought that this had been discussed before!

Bob Chapman

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. john7g | Nov 15, 2008 10:08pm | #1

    have you seen the method that they use to run water lines for irrigation sprinklers under drivewyas?  They put a jet nozzle on the end of rigid PVC pipe and connect the other end to a water hose and let the water flow.  Seems to just ease it's way though the soil and i think I've seent he pieces at the BBs.  Maybe rig something in similar fashion to some PVC conduit (the gray stuff for elect)??

    1. BobChapman | Nov 15, 2008 10:53pm | #7

      Thanks John--- but what is "BBs" -- not a term that I know!

      Bob

      1. john7g | Nov 15, 2008 11:07pm | #8

        Big Box stores Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, etc).  Schlagor gave some pretty good details... definitely worth a shot.

        1. BobChapman | Nov 15, 2008 11:15pm | #9

          Thanks to everyone for your contributions.

          Bob

  2. peteshlagor | Nov 15, 2008 10:17pm | #2

    Dig a hole along side the drive at the desired location - as deep as you need.  Make the hole big enuff to be able to run your conduit in a straight line (close to level) as it goes under the drive.  Meaning the hole will need to be wide perpendicular to the drive.

    Now, using conduit or a pvc pipe, hook up a garden hose to the end, so's your conduit becomes the hose end.  Then turn on the water and drill.

    In a perfect world, you'd use this hose pipe inside of another, slightly larger pipe for the waste water and dirt to flow out of without eroding too much of your driveway base.

    A few minutes later, you should have your length of conduit in place with no apparent effect to the drive.  Unless you got's lots of rocks inhibiting your progress.  Then your driveway gets sacrificed.  Or you could hire a boring service.

    I've done this several times.  Including a 4" drain pipe for an eavestrough downspout.

    Piece of cake.

    1. BoJangles | Nov 15, 2008 10:52pm | #6

      Pete,  That's almost exactly how we do it.  You gave a good explanation, but to add a little more for the OP's benefit....

      We do this frequently so we have a slightly different approach.  Although you can certainly use a hose, we use a pressure washer.  They actually sell heads for this purpose that you screw on to the end of a 3/8" or 1/2" pipe.  The pipe sections would be long enough to go completely under your driveway.  I have adaptors attached to the ends of the pipe to couple to the power washer.  This method works better in gravel than a hose does.  Although a hose works too if you are careful.

      For the OP....what you have to do is set your conduit to grade and shove the hose or pipe into the conduit until it hits the dirt.   Let the water flow as fast as possible, move the hose back and forth a little, and stop to tap the conduit a few inches at a time with a small sledge.  Do not shove the hose or pipe too far into the soil or you will trap it and you won't be able to get it out.  I prefer to use a larger conduit than actually required because it allows the soil to flow back out the conduit more readily than using a small conduit.

      Do not use any more water than you need to open up the soil for the conduit.  If you do, you could cause a problem with the road sinking in that spot. 

      Be patient and go a few inches at a time.   It usually takes us about 10 minutes at the most to go under a driveway like yours.

      We peel up the sod with a sod cutter first and then replace it after we fill the trench beside the driveway.  When we are done, you would never know we were there.

  3. DanH | Nov 15, 2008 10:19pm | #3

    You should have a go a the water jet technique, before trying something else. Probably someone will be along with the particulars shortly.

    The only function of economic forecasting is to make astrology look respectable. --John Kenneth Galbraith
  4. oldbeachbum | Nov 15, 2008 10:36pm | #4

    What the others said.

    We just did this for some electrical work.  Sandy and no rocks, though.  If your conditions are tougher try contacting a well driller in your area.  It's not deep and he would probably be able to do it in a jiff.

    ...The unspoken word is capital. We can invest it or we can squander it.  -Mark Twain...Be kind to your children....they will choose your nursing home....aim low boys, they're ridin' shetland ponies !!

  5. junkhound | Nov 15, 2008 10:37pm | #5

    no way to connect them except to pull a conduit under the driveway

    Huh?  Use some imagination!

    1. simply feed from the garage down both sides of drive

    2. Build a decorative arch over the driveway containing the wiring, it could say "Chapman ranch" or some such.

    3. Then there are esoteric methods, such as infrared communication and charging a battery on the far side when the gate is closed, etc..

     

     

  6. husbandman | Nov 15, 2008 11:21pm | #10

    A guy I know has a pneumatically operated T-post driver that's really slick ($400 plus, he said). Even in very hard rocky ground it taps the post in like crazy. You could likely use the same tool to drive a pipe horizontally.

    Of course then you'd have to buy a new tool which you might not use later. Depending on where you live, you may be able to rent a post driver.

    I've also seen wire run (perhaps not to code!) through a cut made in the top of the concrete, then sealed over with some sort of gooey stuff.

    1. User avater
      Sphere | Nov 15, 2008 11:25pm | #11

      Most of the horse farms around here have that cut for the wires that signal the exit opening when leaving..iow, like a traffic trigger that senses when a car passes over.

      They also either have a Keypad, an intercom, or a remote like a garage door..or a combination of all three, to get in. And  some are set where you just pull yer car's nose up close enough, and it auto opens ( handy for UPS, and the FireTrucks).Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

      Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

       

      They kill Prophets, for Profits.

       

       

    2. BobChapman | Nov 15, 2008 11:30pm | #12

      Thanks.  That's another new idea for me!

      Bob

    3. DanH | Nov 16, 2008 12:42am | #13

      I've seen utility guys use a hydraulic ram, with sections of smooth steel pipe being driven, then the ram reverses and pulls the flexible conduit/pipe back through.

      (Note that this is a small, hand-operated ram, not one of the big rigs you frequently see used for major utility work.)
      The only function of economic forecasting is to make astrology look respectable. --John Kenneth Galbraith

      Edited 11/15/2008 4:44 pm by DanH

  7. mhole | Nov 16, 2008 03:09am | #14

    I've retro'd a coupla powered gates.

    They were all low voltage.

    Don't know that you really need to be 18" below grade for low voltage.

    That is something you would have to ask about for your location.

    There are some great responces here already.

    If for some reason they don't work - Outside the box would say to not try to patch to match, make a highlight strip to accentuate the addition of the gate.

     

    .02

    1. BobChapman | Nov 16, 2008 06:16am | #15

      Thanks for your response.  My BI was pretty clear that I needed to be down 18", though perhaps I didn't specify that it was low-voltage.  He was worried about mechanical damage, of course.

      Your idea about an accent strip is a good one --- perhaps my "last resort" if I can't achieve what I'm aiming for!

      Bob

      1. gstringe | Nov 16, 2008 07:08am | #16

        Per 08 National Electrical Code:
        Table 300.5Residential driveways, parking areas used only for dwelling related purposes18” for direct burial and all types of conduit listed for direct burial.The exception to this is resi circuits 120volts or less, 20amps or less and GFCI protected can be 12”.Good to check with your local codes though.Nobody gets in to see the wizard...not nobody...not no how!

      2. BoJangles | Nov 16, 2008 04:14pm | #17

        Don't forget that you need high voltage to both openers and that usually comes from one side of the drive and goes under the drive to the other side.

        1. mhole | Nov 16, 2008 04:18pm | #18

          Not on the gates I have installed, all low voltage.

          Line voltage only to charge the battery.

          1. BobChapman | Nov 16, 2008 04:38pm | #19

            ... and on the ones that I intend to install.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

FHB Podcast Segment: Repairing an Old Home While Maintaining Its Integrity

Learn about different approaches to making updates and repairs to older homes with historic charm.

Featured Video

How to Install Exterior Window Trim

Learn how to measure, cut, and build window casing made of cellular PVC, solid wood, poly-ash boards, or any common molding material. Plus, get tips for a clean and solid installation.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 684: Masonry Heaters, Whole-House Ventilation, and Porch Flooring
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Repairing an Old Home While Maintaining Its Integrity
  • Tools and Gear for the Moms Who Get it Done
  • An Easier Method for Mitered Head Casings

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers
  • Issue 327 - November 2024
    • Repairing Damaged Walls and Ceilings
    • Plumbing Protection
    • Talking Shop

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 81%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data