Replies

1. 
   Tyr | Jul 17, 2004 12:13pm | #1

   S-Guy--

   I ran into the same problem about 20 years ago.  Ran BLACK pipe around shop about 4-1/2' off the floor.  Put "T's" w/disconnects at bench, about 1/2 way down the wall and at the ends near the overhead door.  Near the OH door I mounted a steel wheel that I had cut in half.  Maybe from a VW.  Put about 40' of hose there.  Can run it out to where the trucks pull up and air broom tool boxes and fill tires.  Made sure there was a QD near any tool in the shop--like the drill press.  A short hose makes blowing chips away from work easly.  While I was at it I ran conduit next to the air line.  Put plenty of 4Plex boxes all around.  Kept boxes on two circuits (one right, one left) and then (after tripping a breaker) ran conduit with another circuit to overhead fluorescent lights.  Otherwise you use a pedestal grinder, trip a breaker, find yourself in the dark because the lights were on the same circuit too.  All fluorescent lights are 8' and I put in individual switches that work from  pull chains.  Want just one light--turn the rest off!  Been thinking about using a piece of UniStrut on the ceiling and looping a line (could be electrical or air) so it could be used in the center of the shop--but those little trollies (wheels) that fit the UniStrut ain't cheap.  Any way, no hoses or cords are messing up my shop.  Tyr  PS--Make sure you get a good sealant or put on teflon tape and then dope over that on threads.  I think some CPCV will carry decent air pressure and those are easily glued.  Have fun!

2. 
   UncleDunc | Jul 17, 2004 01:22pm | #2

   A perennial favorite.

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages/?msg=15951.1

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages/?msg=10286.1

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages/?msg=20289.1

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages/?msg=20400.1

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages/?msg=29823.1

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages/?msg=36605.1

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages/?msg=36853.1

1. 
   brownbagg | Jul 17, 2004 05:55pm | #3

   DO NOT USE PVC.

3. 
   MrBill | Jul 17, 2004 10:28pm | #4

   Swiss,

    Check this stuff out ... I am thinking of replumbing our entire shop in it. I looked at it in person at a trade show last year and it is really slick. A little bit expensive, but when you look at the ease of installing it I think it's worth it. Plus it looks neat :)

   http://www.garagepak.com

   Bill Koustenis

   Advanced Automotive Machine

   Waldorf Md

4. 
   larryscabnuts | Jul 17, 2004 11:24pm | #5

   I have air hoses run along the ceiling with hang down connections at 7 feet off of the floor. I used 3/4 inch Parker hose with coiled air lines at each hang down with hooks to hang the coils on. I also did the same with electricals. I used extention cords with the plugins 7 feet off the floor. The air hoses are run thru eyebolts screwed into the joists

5. 
   WorkshopJon | Jul 17, 2004 11:45pm | #6

   Should I just use standard galv.pipe and fittings "

   Swiss,

   Yes, galv. pipe, (except for the connection to the compressor) and slope all runs downhill with a water trap at every end, and tap off vertically if you want dry air.  FWIW, FWW, did an article on that topic a while back, #160 I think.

   Jon

6. 
   mike4244 | Jul 18, 2004 03:21am | #7

   I used 1/2" copper pipe, the heavy wall stuff ( do not recall what letter type ). All the lines are mounted to the ceiling except a short vertical line against the wall that connects to a drip valve and short compressor hose. If you think that you may have a good chance of banging into the lines, go with black iron or galvanized.I have coil hoses dropped down from each connection, except one that has a 25'-0" hose. I installed a 6" drip with a valve at the lowest point to remove any condensation. The copper was soldered, some people use flare fittings for easy removal if necessary.I believe they used tubing not pipe when they use flare fittings.

   mike

1. 
   DougU | Jul 18, 2004 06:24am | #8

    I would use copper, never have had any problem with it, get the heavier stuff, I think Mike said it to.

   Easy to run, relatively inexpensive.

1. 
   brownbagg | Jul 18, 2004 06:39am | #9

   black iron pipe not cheap

7. 
   Dinosaur | Jul 18, 2004 08:28am | #10

   Use sweated ½" type L copper pipe. Use ball valves for all cut-offs, drain legs, etc. I prefer the threaded type of ball valve; easier to sweat in the threaded nipple than the valve itself and you won't damage the valve with too much heat. The standard pressure test for new plumbing systems using this stuff is 150# X 3 hrs, so ordinary 100-120# working pressure in a shop shouldn't create any problems. Use Teflon tape on all threaded connections.

   Dinosaur

   'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?