Replies

1. 
   CAGIV | Jul 31, 2003 12:42am | #1

   Are the walls down to the studs?

   3M makes a fire "proof" caulk to seal around pipes and cables,  our local building department allows it for some fire wall applications, so you might want to look into it.

   Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professionals built the Titanic.

1. 
   jmo2 | Jul 31, 2003 02:08am | #2

   No, the walls are still up...mostly.  A few ceilings will have to come down and be rebuilt on the first floor and second floor.  The basement ceiling is just coming down to exposed joists and beams (it's a mess). 

   We figured  out the problem with the fireblock when I got into the space behind the bathroom cabinet. 

   http://www.houseinprogress.net/archives/000099.html

   As you can see, they got lazy and just put the box behind the new cabinet where the old cabinet used to be.  Not code-compliant and not in a place where you could easily get to it.  We looked at moving it and...fireblock.

   So, we're going to need to fish things through the walls at best.  Rip up some original plaster and lathe at worst.  But we still have this darn fireblock.

   Do we drill right through it anyway?  Notch it at the edge and then recover it with lathe?

   Thanks!

   jmo

1. 
   Scooter1 | Jul 31, 2003 02:45am | #3

   I do old house rennovations for a living. This is what I do when we update wiring in a 100 year old house.

   First, I would replace the service box, and using flex conduit, run all the 2nd floor lights and sockets in two conduits up to the attic. I usually look for a closet in a central area of the house and rip out the plaster top to bottom, and run the conduit from the basement, into the closet, up to the second floor, and into the attic in one run. I usually like to run an extra conduit or two for future use, e.g., 220 runs, cable, phone, etc.

   Second, I terminate those runs in a large box, where upon they are distributed out to various areas in the attic, usually about 8-10 boxes, 4-5 for lights; and 4-5 for sockets. Then, using romex, I can drill down on exterior walls (one per room) for sockets, and the sockets are run in series off that single romex line. Some rooms (if the homeowner wants window air conditioning units) get two such runs. The lines run around the perimeter of the room at about 24".

   Third, the lines for the 1st floor get punched in from the basement through the bottom plate.

   Fourth, for the 1st floor ceilings, you will have to break plaster, and you might as well get used to replacing most, if not all, of the ceiling drywall. For a house of your size, I would say abotu $5,000 should cover drywall and paint.

   I use flexible steel drill bits, about 4-6 feet long in a variety of sizes, depending on whether the hole is for 12-2 or 12-3. I usually install 12-3, for s h i t s and grins.

   Good Luck!

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

1. 
   jmo2 | Jul 31, 2003 03:46am | #4

   OHMIGOSH!!!

   Seriously, Boris Yeltsin does house renovation?  THIS Boris Yeltsin??

   http://www.houseinprogress.net/archives/000073.html   (see item #3 :)

   Thank you so much for such specific advice.  We'll definitely have the professionals do it, but it is good to know what to ask for and what is possible.  I am ALL in favor of re-doing the ceiling drywall...they did a HORRIBLE job on it.  Completely a mess.  So, no problem.  As soon as we can, that stuff is coming down!

   This bathroom box is just awful.  Sounds like we should just tear it out and do it over rather than try to move it and put it behind an switch and outlet for easy access.  This guy had romex coming in and out of this box from 4 different directions...I think he did basement to first floor, ran a line out from this box for some other first floor outlets and lights, and then ran two more lines to different places up into the 2nd floor.  He had drilled right through the fireblock and I didn't know if that was a good idea or a "no no".  This fireblock thing is entirely new to me.

   He also had a few outlets WITHOUT BOXES.  Nice eh??  And some splices in the wall without boxes that were wrapped with some electrical tape.  We've already "de-installed" some of those so I can get some sleep at night.

   It's a a good thing that this house has "nice bones", is in an awesome neighborhood, and went for a pretty good (but hard won) price. Otherwise, this would be unbelievably depressing right now for us first timers.  It's already rough that we have to actually live here and do things incrementally...would rather do it all at once, but, oh well.  Life in this fine economy. This is a little like camping with a mortgage though.

   You guys are the best.  Thanks for the help!

   jmo

   p.s.  anyone do work in Chicago?

2. 
   calvin | Jul 31, 2003 04:17am | #5

   Are you sure you have blocking in all the stud spaces?  Often the med cab hole was blocked to receive the cab.  You might not have any blocking in the rest.  Lucky you for wiring, unlucky in case of fire.  Make sure you have the proper fire alarming while you're at it.  Wire them up now. Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   jmo2 | Jul 31, 2003 05:48am | #6

   good question.  I'll mess around with the stud finder and try to figure that out...thanks!

1. 
   calvin | Jul 31, 2003 05:54am | #7

   You should be able to check this out in the basement too.  If wall is open between the joists, take a digital (or any) camera, lay it on it's back pointed up into the stud bay and take a picture.  Or if you have some long fibreglass rods (electrician), use them to probe the opening.  I've seen more open all the way up than fire blocked spaces.  You might run into some goofiness around window openings and maybe some 1x let in bracing or ledgers.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time