Replies

1. 
   joeh | May 12, 2003 07:47am | #1

   Ryobis don't rust. They're all plastic...............

   Clean the table and wax it with car was. Hard carnuba, nothing with silicone in it.

   And use it once in awhile too helps.

   Joe H

2. 
   CAGIV | May 12, 2003 08:03am | #2

   http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/product_family.asp?family%5Fid=7329&gift=False&0=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D10000%26Tree%3D%2CDepartments&1=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D1023%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D0%2CScraping%20%26%20Sanding&2=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D2070%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D1%2CSanding%20Blocks&Gift=False&mscssid=0C5F65F7A881042E685F1FAC5CBDB18E

   To lazy to shorten that link sorry

   But anyhoo, I use those for light surface rust and they seem to work pretty well, the grit is continous through the block, at least if those are the same ones I get at my local woodcraft, which they appear to be.

   Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professional build the Titanic.

1. 
   MG911 | May 12, 2003 09:14am | #3

   Thanks for the link..I'll check into it. I was most concerned with removing the rust. I remember the name of the product I put on - "Bostik" Top Cote. I mispelled it as "bostitch". Any of you heard good or bad about that stuff? Seemed to leave a waxie residue after applying but cleaned up nicely after wiping with a cloth.

   Mike

1. 
   IMERC | May 12, 2003 09:35am | #4

   Seems to be good stuff. Used it for some time now.

3. 
   MrPita2 | May 12, 2003 09:53am | #5

   I think the Bostich product you have is "Top Cote".  It works well for protecting the saw top, but to get the rust off use a sanding block like CAG linked to, or maybe steel wool and WD-40.  Once the rust is gone, then clean the top and apply the Top Cote.

   Also, there is a company called "PMS Products Inc." (No comments on the name.)  They make "Boeshield", another protector like the Top Cote.  That was actually a product Boeing developed to protect/lube aircraft parts, and is now licensed to PMS.  Anyway, they make another product called  "Rust Free".  I haven't used it, but supposedly you just spray it on and wipe it (& hopefully the rust) off like 2 minutes later.  I imagine it's similar to "CLR", but I don't know.

   http://www.boeshield.com/ 

   EDIT: Just realized you posted while I was composing.  I do have the Top Cote myself, it does leave a waxy feel.  But supposedly will not affect finishes the way using real wax would on wood.

   If everything seems to be going well, you've obviously overlooked something.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/12/2003 3:13:22 AM ET by Mr. Pita

1. 
   DaveRicheson | May 12, 2003 02:33pm | #6

   I use the carnuba wax like JoeH. Almost any product will wear off with use, so renew whatever yuo use on regular schedule.

4. 
   NickNukeEm | May 12, 2003 03:07pm | #7

   I remove the rust with steel wool and elbow grease, wipe away the steel debris, then apply 1 or 2 coats of wax.  I've used Johnsons Paste Wax, actually have had the same container for over 20 years, though the bottom is finally shining through.  I've never had a problem with finishing wood after using the saw (jointer, band saw, planer, shaper, etc.  I use the stuff on all tool table surfaces.)

   I never met a tool I didn't like!
5. 
   wflather | May 12, 2003 03:35pm | #8

   Remove the rust with whatever method you prefer.  I have used a palm sander with good results.  Apply whatever rust inhibitor you prefer, I have used Minwax paste wax just because that is what I have.  To protect your table, when you are not using it, cover it with a blanket.  The object is to keep the moist air from condensing on the cold metal, which is a real problem in the spring and fall. 

   Until I had an actual heated shop space, my saw lived in a barn.   This time of year there were days when anything metal literally ran with water and I quickly learned not to leave any tool out.   I covered my saw with a blanket and piece of plastic, and removed the saw blade and wrapped it as well.  This is a PITA, but always kept the rust to a minimum and I only needed to recondition the top two of three times a year.

6. 
   Piffin | May 13, 2003 04:10am | #9

   I use Boeshield B-9. I thought that was what you had at first. It is an aerosole wax made for coating aircraft wings by Boeing. I have a ten year old cast saw table in salt air and barely a brown patina is all. I clean with vinegar and coat it and rub it in.

   Don't know about your product but it could be that the WD-40 interfered with bonding to the metal. use some really fine steel wool to clean it up and start from scratch, then apply your product or a hard buffed in wax. Do it a couple times a year or whenever you see the patina start to grow.

   And shoot anybody who sets a coffee cup or soda can down on it.

   .

   Excellence is its own reward!

7. 
   rasconc | May 14, 2003 06:27pm | #10

   I have a Ridgid TS 3612 and I use Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax.  I got it at True Value.  It seems like great wax and smells good too.  Johnsons seems to have a strong smell, I have not smelled the Minwax product but all three are very cost effective treatments after getting the rust off with scotchbrite and wd-40 or equivalent

8. 
   JohnSprung | May 14, 2003 09:21pm | #11

   Clean the red oxide rust off with steel wool, etc., but don't try to get it shiny.  Leave the blue-black oxide surface on, and wax it with a paste.  I use Trewax, which is made for furniture and floors.  Re-wax every month or two or three as it appears to need it.

   -- J.S.

1. 
   MG911 | May 15, 2003 01:08am | #12

   Thanks for all the help folks. Once again, this forum has proved to be an invaluable resource for rookies like myself. My table saw is looking much better, not like it was when I got it - but that's okay - it means I've had the pleasure of using it!

   Mike