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Saddle issue:2 floor heights tile & wood

amp | Posted in Construction Techniques on June 5, 2005 01:59am

Hi there,

My skills are advanced beginner, but I’m always willing to learn.

Problem solving help please. Years ago, I had a bathroom remodeled – basically gutted and rebuilt. I was young and naive and didn’t think to specify that the contractor should finish the connection between the tile floor and the hall. Now I need to do it, because I’m selling my house, but I’m truly puzzled about the best way to go about it.

The kicker – the tile floor is 1 ” higher than the hall floor and the tile ends at the outside of the door jamb. [Sloppy work which I didn’t know enough to inspect.] The jamb has molding (this is an old house) so that there is 1.5 inches to the molding piece in the center. This center has a depth of 3.25 inches. So I figure that I have to somehow create an inch step up, that is 4.75 inches wide. Is that right? How do I do it so it looks right? I just realized that I could attach a picture ( I love the web, I love the web) to help you understand.

The width of the jamb in the middle is 29″.

Have I explained it clearly enough to get help? Thanks for helping.

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  1. FastEddie1 | Jun 05, 2005 02:33am | #1

    The picture is incredibly small.  I commend you for attaching the pic, but points off for straining my eyes.  Download Irfan and us it to make adjustments ... it's a neat program.

    Looks fairly easy, especially since the tile is higher and on the insoide of the room.  Go to Lowes/HD and buy a prefinished threshold from the tile dept, in a color that goes well with the wood.  Modify to fit your situation.  Done.

    What you need is a threshold, or reducer, that tapers to zero on one side and is an inch thick on the other side.  You might find one that tapers on both sides ... just run it through the tyable saw to get the proper flat face, apply a little stain and some spray lacquer.  fasten in place with Liquid Nails or 3-4 small brads.

     

    I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

    1. amp | Jun 05, 2005 02:53am | #2

      Sorry about the pic. I guessed as to how much to reduce it. I'll learn. I'll tackle your advice tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Thanks.

      1. FastEddie1 | Jun 05, 2005 06:41am | #3

        With the Irfan program, you can open any file and convert it instantly to jpg.  And it will instantly reduce the file size to something under 100k so it opens quickly for us dinosaurs on dialup.  It also has tools for lightening pictures and other neat things.  Somewhere on this forum is a thread about how to use it, but it's really very simple.  One key item ... after you modify the original picture, do a "save as" with a slightly different name cuz once shrunk it can't be reversed.

        Howz 'bout fill in some profile info.  Click on your name and add some info, like where you are.

         I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

        1. amp | Jun 05, 2005 02:53pm | #4

          larger pic. I'm on a Mac and use iPhoto - I just had to guess at a size. thanks for helps

        2. amp | Jun 05, 2005 09:44pm | #6

          Okay that was so easy, I'm embarrassed that I let it stay unfixed for so long. But, but... is there a way to hide chipped tile like there is a hole in wood? The jokers who did my floor left some chipped tiles at the edge. The reducer doesn't fully cover and leaves 1/4 inch hole showing in three places. I haven't nailed reducer in yet awaiting illumination. Probably the real fix it to replace the tiles but I gave away the box a long time ago. Thanks for helping

  2. JTC1 | Jun 05, 2005 09:15pm | #5

    I have made transitional pieces to solve this sort of problem.

    Usually some sort of triangular profile, maybe a little router work on the slim leading edge.

    Your floors look like aged quartersawn pine, I have not had much luck matching the nice patina; so I usually contrast the color of the woods - either darker or lighter.

    Looks like you will need to incorporate a lip onto the trailing edge to hide that chipped tile.  Sorry, have no computer graphics ability or I would draw you an end profile.

    Good luck.

    Jim

    Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

    1. amp | Jun 05, 2005 10:07pm | #7

      Well I got a reducer and it works pretty well. Except for the chipped tile. So in my message to Ed I asked if there is a way to patch ceramic tile? I had another idea based on what you wrote. I found a piece of molding (name? ) It looks pretty good except for how it ends. Attached two pics from each view. Nothing permanent yet, all adjustable. Should I do this? thanks

      1. amp | Jun 05, 2005 11:54pm | #8

        pics ...

      2. JTC1 | Jun 06, 2005 08:49pm | #9

        Sorry, I do not know how to repair ceramic tile except by replacing it.  If you could minimize the exposed holes, caulk bead could easily cover 1/16 or even 1/8".

        Someone else may have some magical tile repair process / material; color matching would be the biggest headache.  Could start another thread on this topic.

        The above being said, based on the photos, the white molding inside of the bath looks strange to me, it also appears that the white molding sticks up above the oak making a handy "tripping hazard". 

        I assume the only reason that you added the white molding was to hide the exposed 1/4" tile chips?

        Three solutions arranged by difficulty / time / mess, easiest first:

        1) Could you route or saw the back side of the oak "reducer" to let it slide back into the bathroom another 1/4" to cover the chipped tile?

        You would need to be removing material from the back of the vertical as installed and pictured.

        2) How about an oak quarter round or shoe molding applied to the back edge (inside of bath) of the reducer and stained to match -- cleaner look, no tripping hazard.  Front edge of oak maintains same position as shown.

        3) Could you cut the tile and the tile substrate back by the needed 1/4" and use the reducer without changing it?

        Angle grinder with a diamond blade should do it, along with a little chisel work at both ends (round diamond blade will not cut square corner).

        Hope one of these helps.

        Jim

        Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

         

         

         

         

  3. maverick | Jun 06, 2005 09:23pm | #10

    Find a grout color that matches your tile and fill the void with it. From the looks of things the new owner is gonna rip it all out anyway.

    1. BryanSayer | Jun 06, 2005 11:59pm | #11

      After you grout the chips, put some clear finger nail polish over it. Helps keep it from flaking out.

    2. amp | Jun 07, 2005 04:22pm | #12

      Thanks. Yes, I always intended to replace the tile on the floor. Again, naive of me.. I let them use wall tile for the floor. When I realized my error I didn't insist that they fix it. I'll know more on my next house. : )

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