I will be running new wire for electrical, probably new plumbing vents, etc. What type of drill is best. Can I get by with a straight 1/2″ spade drill or will I also need an angle drill?
Another concern is safety. I understand the torque of these drills acn break a wrist. I’ve never had a problem with tools, but I’ve always used 3/8″ drills. Is there such thing as a 3/8″ drill that can be used for these purposes.
Please address the issue of clutches to prevent or help prevent injury.
Does lubricating bit help? If so, what to use for lubricant and how often?
Brand recommendations? Just need to get the job done. No qualms with a B&D or Skil.
Drill bit recommendations also appreciated.
Thanks!
Replies
This sounds like a one-shot, DIY deal. A spade bit will work fine, in fact much better than an auger bit. Assuming normal studs and such of course.
DeWalt makes a right angle drill that does have a clutch in low speed. [Timberwolf]. Originally the holes were made with a brace and auger bit. When electric drills were developed, Milwaukee introduced the HoleHawg to replace the brace. The torque is not the problem. The problem is that if the auger bit jams, the motor starts rotating and you with it. This happens very suddenly and you are now trying to control 1/2 of a horse. Are you strong enough to wrestle a half a horse [750 pounds] in a fraction of a second?
If nails may be a problem -- as in built-up beams or columns -- then a holesaw with extentions is the safe way to proceed.
You may want to try a larger size hole.
~Peter
We couldn't get a stamp but we discovered that the little booklets the self stick stamps come in have a picture of the stamps inside but it's a little small but then we're dealing with postal bureaucrats so who cares and it is also self-adhesive. So the letter is now on its' way to the warden of Altenburg Concentration Camp ordering to release Martha Stewart forthwith.
Electrical you can probably get away with pistol grip drill. Get one with a side handle. Use a spade or forstner bit.
Plumbing though...hmmm...big self feed bits, need big drill. I have the big Dewalt monster and I've never regretted it. It eats through all kinds of stuff, with or without sharp bits. It's also good for those big hole saws you might get in to. Or do you just hack out your toilet flange holes with a sawzall or something?
And yes a pistol grip can break a wrist pretty easily, but more likely you will drop the drill and have a sore wrist, not a broken one.
MERC.
I've used this right-angle attachment on 3/8 and 1/2 drills, works great.
http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/accessories/drill/right_angle_drive.htm?L+coastest+xcxw6309ff9f699f+1110028785
I had a 1/2 drill fly over my head with a spade bit in it when I hit a nail. I got the Greenlee Nail Eater II and it went through the nail like butter. But you can feel that monster torque threatening to get away from you...
I bought a recon Milwaukee, 8 amp, at the sears outlet. It came with the full warranty, five years. It beats the heck out of my old B&D.
For just 1/2 to 3/4" holes in 2X wood, i use a brad point twist drill with foot long shank (get'em at the surplus store, or by welding on a piece of drill rod, probably not cost effective if bought new)
Have an old Souix 3/4" chuck monster for big holes, always hold that so that if it binds my finger gets pulled off the trigger and the handles out of my hands.
A decent 3/8" corded drill will do fine (though slowly) with a 1/2" spade bit. A good 3/8" cordless will work too, but you'll only get 1 or 2 holes per charge.
Pay attention to the quality of the bit, and it's condition as you use it. A dull spade can really slow things up.
My Milwaukee holeshot 1/2" has been a great drill for at least 15 years now. I think I paid less than $100- for it back then.
I know they are still made and are proabably a little lighter now. The drill does have torque, but it is variable speed and you will learn quickly to take it slow when drilling,
Milwaukee also makes a multi-directional bit to cut holes at wierd angles that is made for running Elect. and other stuff.
This bit is incerdible and superior to spade bits and forestners, but I can't think of the name right now ( I just finished working the night shift).
This bit won't likely get away from you and will cut a really clean hole.
Do an internet search for Milwaukee products and you will be able to find it.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Charlie
If you buy an industrial drill, new or used, you could re-sell it on eBay for probably 3/4 of what you paid for it.
Look at this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46581&item=3877720540&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW and check what they've sold for in the past month to get an idea of what you can re-sell it for.
But, a good tool is a good thing to have.
Edited 3/4/2005 10:31 am ET by Jeff2
Edited 3/7/2005 12:49 am ET by Jeff2
If you use spade bits it's good to use these guys so that you can get into smaller spaces without having to go to specialty rt angle drills,not meant if your doing production construction. This way you can use the short bit for almost anything and then just use extended shafts to make them longer. Buyin only one bit.
also if you use a pretty big cordless you can set the tourque so if it jambs it will slip instead of wrenching your wrist, And any body that is using the impact cordless will tell you with them yu won't get the bind.
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/productDetail.jhtml?attributeId=IRWNUP000145¤tType=BM1000005
IRWIN Speedbor Short Length Flat Bits
Another thing is that often, when there's not enough space for the drill between joists, an extension will let you get a better angle, since you can put the extension shaft right up against the adjacent joist.So shortie bits and an extension is probably the most flexible arrangement.
What brand and sixze would you recommend? I would much prefer a corded unit. Also, how does the drill chuck work? What size bits will it take and is an adapter needed?
Finally, does the impact function prevent binding and potential wrist injuries?
Thanks!
Milwaukee kick butt big time.... work hard and last a long time... a very long time.. even shame Bosch and Hilti... the Japs can't cut the mustard...
when you select yur drill keep keep a couple of things in mind...
drill motors turn from 10 to 14,000 RPM's... they are then gear reduced to shaft output no load speeds of different RPM's...
depending on what you want to do and how much of crater you'll want to drill match the NLS to the job...
look at the catalog listings on the tech data... slower outputs = larger hole...
I have drill speeds down to 250RPM (it'll litteraly rip yur arms off if yur not careful) and up to 3600RPM's... lots and lots of little holes right now... (I was doing a bazillon rivets a day)
all these drills are 1/2" chuck... (will handle a 17/32" shank)
follow the manufactures recommendations... think of how large in diameter you want to go, how deep and if you want to push hole hawgs or self feeds... after that everything is moote...
get yurself a woopazz no nonsense workaholic without going overboard.. and a general purpose...
4/500 + RPM would make for decent a work horse...
the more auxerillery handle you put on this hummer the better..
1200 / 2000 should make for a decent GP....
I got a 3/4" - 125RPM Thor made by Grumman Aircraft that everybody is terrified of including me...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Edited 3/5/2005 1:48 am ET by IMERC
Also check this thread out, and you'll be ordering in 15 minutes. http://forums.taunton.com/n/main.asp?qu=impact+drivers&find=Search&webtag=tp-breaktime&ctx=search&cl=632358&af=10000&o=relevance&be=0
Breaktime #50102.23
I like the Milwaukee Magnum as well. Use it with the side handle. As someone else said, it's variable speed so just take it easy and be prepared for kickback if it occurs.
For electricals, Irwin Speedbore bits do fine - very fast, and reasonably cheap bits.