Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 23, 2000 07:00pm | #1

   *
   sounds like the only thing left to do is shim the bottom hinge to lift the door up instead of trying to PULL the door up with the top hinge...

   get your supplier to have the mfr's rep come out.. they should have this designed to work....

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 23, 2000 07:01pm | #2

   *Why don't shims work?

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 23, 2000 07:15pm | #3

   *the shim will work .. but only until you push the bottom of the door over as far as it will go in the opening.. so , in effect you limit the potential adjustment to half of what you get with the combined PUSH - PULL..

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 23, 2000 09:16pm | #4

   *I agree with Mike. Most door models are modular in construction. Single door, no sidelights; single door, right sidelight; single door, left sidelight; single door, right and left sidelights; etc.The problem is on the hinge side not being structural in design. The wood is too thin on less expensive production entry doors. It's okay when you have one sidelight on the lockset side. This way you can screw the hell out of the jamb to the stud.As Mike pointed out, you can shim the bottom hinge out to try and balance out the door. Also shim under the hinge side of the threshold to force it up at the same time.Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 23, 2000 09:44pm | #5

   *Danny,Do you have any leeway in how you frame for this type of door?Your description indicates you have three separate units since you wrote that you have 3/4 inch jambs side-by-side.How about separating the side lite assemblies from the door assembly by the thickness of at least two 2x's. Then a little custom casing work to cover. That should give you the meat and stiffness you need to shim the door jamb properly. (Been there, done that).Eh?

2. 
   Guest_ | Sep 24, 2000 02:00am | #7

   *Try shimming the hinge side jamb tight to the framing above it then driving a long screw up and angled back through the head jamb into the framing. Plug the screw hole. It's a pain in the rear and slow but works as long as you don't deform the opening.

2. 
   Danny_Budnick | Sep 24, 2000 02:00am | #6

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   I have problems with front doors with full glass sidelights, such as a 1:0-3:0-1:0 front door. The natural effect of a door, when installed, is to sag down.(The upper left goes down when the top right goes left. Since doors don't stretch, the top left (looking out) tends to rub on the jamb. And yes, shims do not work in this application, since the problem lies in the jamb design.
   Now, the type of door (Statement Inc.) in which the sidelight cores are made of foam, there is no way to pull the door over when you put a long screw in the top hinge. In my case there is glass there too. How in the world am I supposed to draw the top of the door over? Also the two jambs together (3/4 + 3/4) is not enough "meat" to hold the door in it's correct position. Am I the only one with this problem? I've heard of planing down the rubbing area, but isn't that just B.S. fix for a door which costs upward of $600?