hey guys,
Just left a potential clients’ house. The house was built in the late 50’s or early 60’s, standard box 24w x 40L with a full daylight basement. The floor joists one side of the house supporting the 1st floor are 15′ long 12″ on center 2×8’s but the floor sags almost 1.5″ three feet away. The load bearing wall for the ceiling/attic joists are 3′ from the beam running the length of the house. They would like to get the sag out of their floor. The 2×8 joists have cross bridging in the middle of the span. The joists rests on a mud sill on one end and a ledger strip on the beam end. Most of the utilities hang off the bottom of the joists.
I can jack up the joists (slowly, I was thinking 1/8″ a week) then marry a 2×10 and fill it up with nails(15 nails/board?) from a palm nailer. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Clark
Replies
Sounds like whoever built it thought 12"oc framing would be enough to transfer the bearing wall the 3-ft over to the beam. What kind of load is the bearing wall picking up? Attic, second floor, roof?
The only load the bearing wall is picking up is the attic load which only has about 4' of headroom so not much storage as well as the ceiling load (sheetrock approx 5 lb/sf).
Off hand I'd say yer gonna need a beam under the bearing wall AND mid span ....
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Yes, this would be the straightforward approach, but it should be possible to beef up the floor eneough to support the bearing wall.
I can't do the calculations, but I'm sure someone can.
T was right.FAR easier to do that than to use something like 14" LVLs 12"OC
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I can jack up the joists (slowly, I was thinking 1/8" a week) then marry a 2x10 and fill it up with nails(15 nails/board?) from a palm nailer. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Other than adding a carrier mid-span, this seems like your simplest solution.
You could take out more than 1/8" a week during the first two-three weeks, speed things up a bit that way. BTW, how do plan on jacking it without eventually interfering with the installation of the new 2X10s?
my intention was to stick all the 2x10's in their respective cavities prior to setting the temporary beam, then furring/nailing out the bottom of the existing joists with 2 pieces of 2x2 approx. 12" long. I think the floor will act like a diaphram and that there is very little concern for the joists trying to roll off the furring.
your comments are appreciated,
clark
You are dealing a couple of different problems that add up to underdesign.
First, not 2x8 floor framing should span more than 12' - but you have three feet more than that.
Second is tha fact that a load from above should not offset from the bearing beam below by any more than the height of the floor framing. For 2x8s that means no more than an 8" offset, 28" less than what you have.
Third, are you really saying this house from that long ago has a truss roof? This is what you imply when you say that there is no load other than attic load on that wall.
If stick framed, all odds are that the roof load and it's live load transferr to add to your problem.
All tolld, this is why there is such a deflection three feet off from the beam. Yes, you can jack it up, but what you do to keep it up needs an engineer to say. A "by guess and by golly" job is what they have now and you see the results of not taking the time to figure it out properly
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more clarification on the point load. The house has a central hall running the length of the house with a living room on one side and a kitchen on the other side, each room approx. 12' wide. A girder runs the entire length of the house 3-2x8's supported every 6-8'. The girder is 9' off the front wall and 15' off the back wall. the joists are supported by a 2x2 ledger strip on the girder side and the masonry foundation on the other end. The wall running the length of the house on the top floor supports only the ceiling/attic load. The roof is conventional stick framing where the load path is carried to the outside walls. There are no vertical members in the roof system to transmit the load onto the wall in question.
I do agree a professional engineer should make the call but I thought some of you guys might have run across a similar problem.
Thanks for the input,
Clark
A 2x10 joist on a 15' span with a point load 3 ft from the bearing will not support your problem correction.
The point load needs further clarification...how much load from what structures?
Is the 3' load offset from the rear wall of the walkout?
.....................Iron Helix