I am installing a pine floor in a cottage and this is the first time I have installed a wood floor that is not prefinished. This is what I think I should be doing, but am unsure. I wood like some professional advice because I want to complete this project right the first time through. After installing the floor I want to use a square buff sander at 120 grit. I would prefer not to use a drum sander as I have no experience with it. After the 120 grit paper I want to use Minwax wood conditioner and then 2 coats of dark walnut stain. After which I want to use 3 coats of semi-gloss floor varathane, sanding 400 grit inbetween coats. Am I on the right track?
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For what it's worth - here is my opinion.
Dark walnut stain might be too dark, but your procedure of sealing it first is the only way you can get it to come out even. The problem is that pine reverses grain when stained dark, ie. the soft wood turns dark, and the harder grain pretty much remains unchanged.
I don't think you need to sand between coats, and 400 grit is too fine. See what the instructions say on the finish. Usually if you recoat in a specified time frame inter coat sanding is unnecessary.
Make sure the finish is compatible with your stain, and make sure the stain is fully cured before topcoating, otherwise it may bleed into the finish causing it to be muddy and soft.
Bye the way, my knowledge about floor finishing is pretty much limited to what I have overheard and read.
rob,
Thats gonna be one uneven floor. You can't remove much stock with the pad sander. On some small jobs we have presanded the boards and put a small bevel on the edge. Then all you have to do is stain and finish.
Add a little poly to your stain to set it and thin your finish coats.
KK
You might want to consider an oil finish such as Waterlox. http://www.waterlox.com/
Pine is pretty soft and imho an oil finish will tolerate the dents and dings better and it's easier to touch up.
rob
If you are leary of using a drum sander first on the floor, try locating a Clarke 1700 screener or other large random orbit circular screener. Start with 36 grit and proceed to 50 then finish with 80 or 100 grit screen. It will take longer than starting with a drum sander, but will give you a smooth even floor.
Depending on the species of pine you are using, the time spent screening will vary.
Save the used 80-100 grit screens for between urethane screening. That screening only needs to be a light once over.
I would suggest a penetrating oil finish first, tinted with walnut rather than a stain. Something like WATCO on a commercial basis or mix your own. The oil base will give penetration as well as even out the staining on pine allowing you to not use a conditioner. Dry brush theoil in well and let dry for 24 hours before your first coat of urethane.
good luck
david
walk good
When Splintergroupie refinished her floor with help from th chap from the UK, she posted a tutorial on this subject, with pictures. It should be in the archives but the pictures wouldn't have been transferred.
BJ
but the pictures wouldn't have been transferred.
Which woul;d leave that thread 80% worthless now.
Can you tell that I'm frustrated over losing so much work?
Excellence is its own reward!
Yeah, Piffin. Yer so right. I've just been searching the archives (I think) and I can't find it even though I know who posted it. I was hoping that I could find it for...(damn, who started this thread.) Anyway, maybe we could get Spints to reinsert the pictures because the whole thing was pretty damn good and should be an available resource.
BJ Gardening, cooking and woodworking in Southern Maryland
Rob,
If a drum sander scares you try http://www.u-sand.com They make a 120 volt rental sander and have a list of their rental locations on their site. All you are going to accomplish using a square buff with 120 grit paper is a burnished floor which will stain unevenly. Pine is a tough floor species to stain and achieve acceptable results. The poly should be cut between coats with a maroon buffing pad, not paper, or a 120 grit screen on a high speed buffer. You should also 'water pop' the floor ( wipe down with a damp warm rag) before your final sanding.
Edited 4/25/2002 6:43:15 PM ET by luvditchburns