Turning to all of you once again for your advice and suggestions. I’m looking for some new blades for my:
I’ve see various post on here with a company that begins with “T”. I would like the blades to be able to cut smooth and not chew the heck out of the boards. I think it would have to be 60-80 tooth.
Ok, fire away everyone.
Thanks,
Barney
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Replies
I really like Freud blades. The red-coated "ultimate cutoff" leaves an incredibly smooth finish.
For the table saw, Frerud make a "combo" blade, which both cuts and rips pretty well.
They also have a dedicated ripping blade which does a nice job. But it takes a fair amount of feed pressure.
If it wasn't for muscle spasms, I wouldn't get any exercise at all.
I've heard good things about the Freud blades. Definately want something that isn't going to chew the crap out of the wood I'm cutting.
Thanks for the info.
have to agree on the frued blades, i own at least 20 of various sizes from 6 to 12 for varying uses and saws.
i can do perfect cuts in prefinished veneered cabinet panels both with the grain and cross grain using a circ saw, cut 6 inch solid prefinshed crown on a chop saw with a mirror smooth cut
im not saying that other blades arent as good, but frued works for me and is the best available near mecaulking is not a piece of trim
Diddo on the Feud blades I think they are one of the best blades out there. Just make sure you get the right blade for the right cut---------- good luck.
PS: use a negitive rake blade on your compound miter if its a sliding saw.
Thank you for all the info. I appreciate it. Seems to me that Freud is the one most recommended.
If you want the best then Forrest blades are it. Amana also makes some very good blades. However they are more money and I cant tell you if they are worth the extra $ compared to Freud, which does have an excellent line to choose from. Check out woodworkers supply for the freud lineup. For forrest go to stores.yahoo.com/forrestman. And amana go to amanatool.com
Thank you. I appreciate the info.
Hey Barney,
Everyone else has pretty much covered the basics. I use a Freud ripping blade in my jobsite table saw now and love it. I make all my cross-cuts on a Makita slider, so I use a Freud blade here too (I believe it's an ultimate cut-off blade but can't really remember the exact wording) it's brand new, but so far I like it.
I've also had good luck with CMT blades. They are about in the Freud price range.
From everything I've heard, Forrest is the Cadillac of blades. I just don't fully trust my guys enough with my tools to make that kind of investment.
I believe the blades you were referring to that started with "T" are Tenryu blades. They make fantastic 7 1/4" framing and decking blades. I've used them quite a bit. Can't say if they even make larger blades or comment on the quality of them if they do.
Lots of good options out there. Good luck.
That's the name. Tenryu blades. Thank you. Well, it looks like I'm going to go to HD and by some Freud blades. I'll wait till I go to my Wood working show and check out the CMT blades.
"Well, it looks like I'm going to go to HD and by some Freud blades."
STOP!
HD sells the Freud Diablo and a quick search here will tell you a little bit about the Diablo blade. I'll summarize for you, it's not positive. I've used the 7 1/4" Diablo in my circular saw but I don't expect much for the service I put them through. On the other hand when I'm doing oak crown I need and expect performance out of a miter saw blade.
Go to a reputable woodworking supplier and spend extra money on the good Freud blades.
http://forums.prospero.com/n/find/findRedir.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&mg=0CDEF4A3-5E28-4EF6-A36C-282A2ABDEF45
Scott R.
Edited 11/25/2003 11:47:03 AM ET by Scott R.
Thank you for informing me. I was not aware of that. I'll have to check out the wood working show that is coming this January near me.
Scott is right about the HD thing...
Here's some blades to consider. There from Freud.
10" SCMS - LU91R010 for wood - LU92M010 for manmade material/laminates12" SCMS - LU91R012 for wood - LU92M012 for manmade material/laminates10" TS - LU84R011 for one combo blade or LM72R010 rip and LU73M010 crosscut12" TS - LU84R012 for one combo blade or LM72R012 rip and LU73M012 crosscut16" TS - LU84R016 for one combo blade or LM72R010 rip and LU73M016 crosscut - LM71M016 for speed rip.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Thanks. I'll write down the model numbers you said and take a look at them.
I appreciate the info.
Scott,
Thank you for making the distinction between Diablo and the industrial Freud blades. I hate I missed that thread when it was current. The problem Jeff Buck experienced with his Diablo blade was most likely the result of not allowing the blade to stop before lifting the head. The way the 12" CMSs are made the teeth are lifting at the back of the cut and if a cutoff piece falls back into the blade as the head is raised the teeth pick it up and slam it into the guard. I'd say he is fortunate that the saw wasn't destroyed and that it didn't injure him. We make more expensive blades than the Diablo but the same materials go into them that go into all our blades and they are made on the same production lines. The main difference is that our industrial blades are heavier, have thicker tips and more specialized grinds.
Barney,
Here's what I recommend:
Home Depot Blades:
D1060S for the RAS
D1280X for the CMS (If it's a slider use the D1280S)
D1050X combo for the table saw or D1024X Rip and D1080X crosscut
Industrial blades:
LU91R010 for the RAS
LU85R012 for the CMS (LU91R012 if it's a slider)
LU84R011 combo for the table saw or LM74R010 Glue Line Rip and LU85R010 Crosscut
These are a little different from Marty's but I think these might better match your needs.
Charles M
Freud, Inc.
Edited 11/25/2003 1:52:42 PM ET by CHARLES_MC
Glad to see someone here who works for one of the major tool manufacturers. It's nice to be able to give some feedback once in a while, or have someone to give us the straight stuff on their tools.
I have a question for you, if you don't mind. I have a Freud 13.2 volt cordless drill that still works great, but the bateries are too weak to make it practical to use. I really ike that thing and hate to give up on it. I checked with a "batteries plus" store, and they wanted $90 each to rebuild them. I can't see spending $180 to replace them.
Is there anywhere I can still get batteries for the thing? And while we're at it, why did Freud quit making the cordless drills?It ain't the things we don't know that hurt us. It is the things we do know that ain't so. [Artemus Ward]
I hate to hijack this thread but the batteries are still available (Item# B132) although they are a little pricey. Your Freud dealer can order them for you. If you don't have a Freud dealer you can call our customer service and we'll find source for you. We quit importing the cordless drills when the competition brought out the 18 volt systems because they were about the same money as our 13.2v (some were less) and sales went downhill quickly.
Charles M
Freud, Inc.
Heck, we hijack threads all the time.
One of the downfalls of living in a small town is that we have no dealers of any kind. I generally order stuff online. But I've never seen a listing for those batteries anywhere.
And I have no idea how to get a customer service # for your company.
Seems to me that once the 13.2 volt systems were obsolete, everyone else just started building drills with newer technology. Why didn't Freud do that?Man cannot discover new oceans unless he has courage to lose sight of the shore.
Boss Hog,
Sorry, I forgot to put the number in my post:
(800) 334-4107
We wanted to continue with a higher voltage drill but the cost was out of the realm of possibility. IIRC, an 18v version would have retailed for over $300.
Charles M
Freud, Inc.
I like Integra blades the best. I also like Leuco and Frued.
Integra's phone # 1-800-633-6312. I think Integra cuts as good as a Forrest. And a lot less money.
Edited 11/25/2003 4:00:37 PM ET by Larry's cabnuts
I hate to hijack this thread but - It's the norm... Gotta have fun some time. Besides, posted useful information is good however or where ever it's posted.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Hey charles does freud still make the 410? man I love that blade...
Darkworksite4:
Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN
Ron,
We still offer the F410 but it was changed several years ago from a high tech "quiet blade" to a more traditional Forrest WWII challenger. The only similarity between the old and new is that they are both 40 tooth. If you are used to the quiet one you might not appreciate the current version. If you are a WWII fan you'll probably like this better.
Charles M
Freud, Inc.
Bummer, Besides the great cut it made on my Contractors saw I really liked the quietness. If you have any pull I would remarket it for the WW2 crowd cuz I only paid about 50 bucks for it 1/2 of the ww2..
Darkworksite4:
Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN
What blade does Freud make that will cut wood as smooth as glass? Like a hollow ground planer blade only in carbide .
don,
If you are after a crosscut only blade that would be the LU85 Series Ultimate Cutoff Blade (LU85R010 is the actual item number for a 10"). If you want glass smooth rips and crosscuts get the F410.
Charles M
Freud, inc.
FS Tool blades. Best bang for the buck. Mashushuta (sp?) are also great blades.
For the money, it's pretty hard to beat the Freud blades. I'm not saying that they are the best, just a really good deal. And quite honestly, I have a hard time finding fault with the cut that I get from their blade. I have used the $30 red, 40 tooth, 10" blade in a table saw and in a miter saw. Excellent performance all the way around. Got it at HD. And that's the last good thing about them.... easy to get.
Rob Kres
Another two cents to add to the pot
Yup, Freuds are good. I'm not a super fan, but I don't dis them either. I think the trim blades I've ordered from Jesada are real good, and smooth cutters. The ten inch blades are fairly reasonable in cost. Especially if you get on their emailing list and catch them on a sale. Systimatics are what my saw wears a good deal of the time, they're (relatively) cheap, good weight and stability, and if you're using one blade for a number of things you maybe shouldn't be, they do pretty good. (Who wants to make a blade change to cut that one stick of something different . . . like CCA) And the SYS have lots of carbide - so I get a good deal of sharpenings out of each blade. But #### - ho baby. I use those for trim work only. Those are friggin awesome blades. You can crosscut 6/4 oak and it's smooth as glass. You just muck it up if you sand it.
"The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
What was the name of that blade ####, The one you use for trim only?
http://www.integratooling.com
Don,
I've got Freuds 80 tooth super fine cut off blade for my miter saw...works very well.I don't understand! I cut it twice and it's still too short!
Charles,
I was reading the combination saw blade review in the Tool Guide magazine Taunton released not too long ago. Forrest came out on top but the Freud combo blade did not fare so well. What is the Freud response to that test? I believe that was their top of the line industrial blade and it seemed to be behind a few other brands also.
I was reading it in a store so I don't have the info next to me but it did kind of surprise me as I was expecting it to be battling for #1 or #2 with the Forrest blade.
Also what does "glue line ripping or cutting" mean?
Thanks,
The Sicilian
I can't comment on the review without sounding like I'm a sore loser but I will say that our testing of "Off-the Shelf" blades (bought in the store and not ordered directly from the manufacturers) disputes their findings.
Glue Line Rip refers to a cut that precludes the need to use a jointer to prepare the edge for gluing up.
Charles M
Freud, Inc.
What do the letters after the numbers denote? For example, the M in the LU84M (do you still make the LU84M?). Also, Freud used to have a 3 blade set for 7 1/4" saws some years back that also came with self stick non marring sheet to put on the saw shoe- does Freud currently offer anything similar? Thanks
I'm running a lot of blades between two shops, and have used many different brands....got a couple of opinions on the subject.
Freud.....average, fairly decent blades, way overpriced in my area (Eastern half of Canada.....it was the same in Ontario as here in Nova Scotia). I buy them when I get stuck; I know I'll get an okay job.
Dimar....decent blade, costs less than Freud, as good or better....will choose them over Freud.
Forrest.....won't (over)pay for hype anymore. The stuff about their grade of carbide is hooey...all the manufacturers have available to them and use the appropriate grades of carbide for the job. Same with the stuff about the sharpening.....tha's what the sharpeners tell me.
Best overall quality I've ever seen.....FS Tools, hands down. Best results, best value for money. Way less known outside industrial circles, because they don't advertise in the glossy DIY mags. I can directly compare a Forrest Chopmaster on a decent saw with the equivalent FS Tools blade on a less decent saw.....the FS Tools wins. I used to buy them from the sharpeners in Ontario, now from an industrial supply house. If I couldn't get an FS Tools, my second choice would be Royce/Ayr, again I usually see them sold through the sharpeners....or there are definitely other quality industrial brands (Leuco, etc, some mentioned above).
Anyway, that's my opinion.cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, N.S
I think that we all have a pretty good feedback on what brand of saw blades everyone is using but the one thing noone mentions is what you are paying for that saw blade and where you bought it.
So lets hear it fellas how much and where??? Let us in on these great deals or overpriced overhyped products. Lets compare prices and locations.
Thanks,
The Sicilian
jc,
In Freud industrial blade offerings the first two letters are either LM (rip) or LU (everything else). Next is the two digit model series. After tha is one letter to denote the surface finish. M is for metallic, R is red PermaShield coating anc C was used for the limited edition chrome. The last two digits are the diameter. Yes, the LU84M is still available and for a 10" the item# is LU84M011.
We run different promos all the time, particularly for the contractor blades, but we don't have one curently that is similar to the one you remember.
Charles M
Freud, Inc.
Egad! I've been censored. I'll break it up. Mat su shi ta. C'mon, Andy. It's a Japan outfit, not a porno ring."The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
Barney
I think someone else mentioned it already, Forrest, they are the best thing out there.
It all depends on what you are cutting Barney. If you are cutting hardwood plys and solid stock, and are getting fancy, Forrest Woodworkers and Chopmasters are for you. The only trouble is you have to send them back to the Factory for a decent re-sharpening. Having them sharpened localy will ruin them.
The difference between expensive blades and moderate blades is in the hardness of the carbide. The harder the carbide the longer the blade will last. DeWalt has several series of blades, the standard blade that comes with the saw is either the 20 series or the 40 series. Check out the 60 series blades at double the price, they are excellent miter saw blades.
My other really good blades are FS and my general duty blades are Freuds.
Finding a decent place to get sharpening done is more than half the battle. Some of them sell repaired or abandoned blades at decent prices.
A sharp cheap blade beats the hell out of an expensive dull one everytime.
Turtleneck
Thanks for the useful information. I appreciate it. It seems that like most things asked, you will get various opinions. But the most common one throught this thread is Freud, Forrest, and one other. I'll have to go check them out. Price really wan't be factor. I've learned realtively quickly in my young age that you get what you pay for.
Thanks,Barney
For the TS , I have a systematic and a freud 410. I love the 410. I dont know if they still make it but its nice quiet and leaves a good edge. I got to get it sharpened again probably this week Ill take it to Manny.
My Miter saw I use a Oldham blade its a 80 tooth and does a real nice job. I picked it up on clearance 1/2 price when Abbeys Tools got bought by Western Tools (yuk I hate those turkeys) . But the blade is nice..:>)
Darkworksite4:
Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN
Thanks for the info. I'm in the process of putting together my Christmas list today.
Sharpening, what a hassal. I've had a number of folks tell me that Forrest's main claim to fame is that they are expert sharpeners of average blades - stopped me from buying a Forrest blade.
I've had good blades from Dimar (best blades and dados for laminates) and CMT in addition to several Freuds which work just fine (especially the 7¼" TK103, best circular-saw blade I've ever had). But I've heard nothing but good things about the Tenryu blades for mitre saws, so that's probably what I'll buy (provided I can find one) next time around..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Forrest may be expert sharpeners but dont be confused. The forrest blade is a superiour blade for several reasones. Foremost is the carbide,its a much higher grade than your average blade. They also have higher tolerances for runout.
As far as sharpening goes the equipment to sharpen blades has gotten better and better. You should be able to find a local sharpenig service that is near or equal to Forrest standard. One key thing that makes forrest sharpening so good is a micro fine grind (very fine diamond wheel.) Ask forrest what grit they use for a final pass and then see if your local service can match it.
I'm with Boss Hog on this one, I've been using Frued's red teflon coated blades for a few years now and have been very happy with them. I've got the 80 tooth, fine cut off for my compound miter and the 40 tooth combo for my table saw. I also bought the "rip" blade, (don't know how many tooth off the top of my head) for my table saw for when I have a bunch of white oak or ash to cut.
I don't understand! I cut it twice and it's still too short!
Thank you. I apprecite the guidance and info.
No prob. The Freud blades have worked well for me.To be honest with you though. I'm sure all the leading manufactures blades are good. Fine Woodworking did a test of all the major blades a year or so ago. (I got the back issue around here somewhere!) You may be able to find it online or at their web site. They tested blades by Freud, Forrest, CMT, Jesada, and a few others. It was a pretty good article, sorry I can't find the issue for ya. Basically they all cut good, it's just a matter of how much do you want to pay?
Although there was one blade that was pretty cheap that cut better than a $90 blade. Can't remember which one! Sorry to confuse you! Check their archives, that article should have all the info you need. Good Luck!
(Also, do yourself a favor, buy the thin kerf blades if they are available in the tooth configuration you want. They are less demanding on your motors and cut just as well)I don't understand! I cut it twice and it's still too short!
I actually just got most of my dad's back issues this past weekend and haven't had the time to go through them. I'll have to sit down and do that tonight.
Thanks for the heads up. This is quite the open and informative place. Thank you for the help.
Barney,
No Prob. The forums here are great. A great bunch of guys. I've never had a question (about construction) I couldn't get answered here. Everyone is willing to share and some of the pics that show up in the photo gallery can be pretty inspiring.
The great thing here is everyone can contribute something from the weekend woodworker to the foreman of a 20 guy shop. Some of the guys can take stuff a little personal (you should have seen a post on joist deflection I started a few months ago!) but overall this forum has been very very helpful. I learn new stuff/ideas all the time just by browsing through threads in my spare time. Well enough rambling from me! Hope to see you around the posts!I don't understand! I cut it twice and it's still too short!
Thanks for all the advice. I went through the box of FWW mags my dad just gave me this weekend, and I found the issue on the saw blades. Its April 2002, no. 155.
Its got the chart of blade ratings for Price/Rip cut/cross cut.
Again, thanks for the heads up.
Barney
No Prob! Glad I could help. :)I don't understand! I cut it twice and it's still too short!